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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread


tom bohanon · · Glenwood Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 110
BillyGoatSam wrote:Any updates on whether "The Fang" has healed itself or not yet? Any recent ascents?
Rumors about the Fang's demise are greatly exaggerated! Jon Gustafson and I climbed it yesterday (Sunday, Feb 3) and it was as fat as I've ever seen it. It looks to me like there is a healed crack where the cauliflower meets the pillar, and another healed crack where the pillar comes off the rock near the top. It has been getting quite a lot of traffic, and seems as safe as it's ever going to be.
Michael Schneiter · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 8,745

A bit belated but below is a look at Avocado Gully on Jan. 30. The warm, dry weather wreaked havoc on it, and I would assume on some of the other Redstone stuff that relies on snowmelt. Hopefully the snowfall in recent days will help it out. It's still in very climbable shape but it is quite airy and thin with a lot of hooking. Enjoy!

Avocado Gully on Jan. 30, 2014.
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Anybody been up to Jaws recently?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

Hurry! Hurry! Clear Creek Canyon ice is in fat! I soloed Beer Garden, Coors Lite and Mickey's Big Mouth this weekend. All were in prime conditions. And while not the most challenging ice climbs, I felt really fortunate to be ice climbing 15 minutes from my house in a t shirt. CCC ice has been a fickle thing to tick off of my Colorado Bucket lost, but it was definitely worth the wait.

Highly recommended is the second pitch, "Exit Crack" variation to Coors Light. It was in fat ice conditions with a difficulty of WI3 M3-. And while it does turn into a bit of a slog, I was able to climb the drainage all the way up to the canyon rim.

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

Sunday Silk..

Silk.
Silky.
RobC2 Cotter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

The Fang looks healed all right, climb at yer own risk...

Did Resurrection Saturday, mank, tat and choss all in one epic pitch!

RobCC on Resurrection. Photo: Janette Heung.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Nice Cor!! hahah all a couloir climb now?

Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

Despite the ultra snowy, and ominous fogÂ…
It was in the usual shape of a bit of everything (rock,snow,ice,mixed)
No matter what, it's going to be spicy - don't fall - somewhere along the way. Like usual.

Good fun though, and no wind! We didn't start climbing until 12:20 or so.
It was good cold temps that day, so the ice was not so drippy.
And yes, I did place screws!

Alton R. · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 160

Hard COR!

George Barnes · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 175

Here's what the Fang looked like last weekend (2-9-2014). The crack picture is taken from the top of The Thang.

If anybody found a pair of black mitts (Marmot?) up there, my partner would love to have them back.

The back of the Fang (2-9-2014).

The Fang on 2-9-14.
Paul Richer · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 15

Does anyone have information on conditions for Rifle?

Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,370

Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Ice in rifle is still good, but we got rained on heavily on Sunday. Dirt, sticks, and rocky topouts in Rifle, gotta love them

Rob Griz wrote:Climbed Rifle 2 weeks ago and it was about as good as it gets, including the dirt top-outs.
Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,020

Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement.

Photo by Jason Kaplan

Ze Fang.
Andy Hansen · · Longmont, Colorado · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,318
Noah8000 wrote:Fang was fat and hacked. WI4+ condition? There is a good fracture line at the top that acts as a good foothold. Actually though, It's healed a little in the past week and a half. Seemed safe. Use your own judgement. Photo by Jason Kaplan
Thanks Noah. Did you get a chance to get on the Dez? Is that also hacked out?
Cor · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,455

Oh NoahÂ… I tried to tell you to go get it while it was good, but you said no way!
4+hacked? Probably wasn't worth the effort nowÂ… ;D

Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,020
Cor wrote:Oh NoahÂ… I tried to tell you to go get it while it was good, but you said no way! 4+hacked? Probably wasn't worth the effort nowÂ… ;D

Ah come on guys. I'm a puss when it comes to this stuff. It was all about the waiting game for the last month and a half. Whether it's in WI4+ or WI6 condition, the route will leave you smiling. Alex Lowe was THE man! Dez is really hacked out as normal for this time of year. It's super fat and pretty wide. Cheers!
Princess Mia · · Vail · Joined May 2006 · Points: 410

I was super lucky to get on Ice Palace in Rifle last Thursday.
Super cool!!!

Ice Palace in Rifle.
seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Vail Update:

so long as no snow falls there is a great trail up to the Firehouse area and another great trail, should say trench, up to Spiral Staircase and the Amphitheatre thanks to Princess Mia.

Everything was pretty damn fat. Firehouse was a little slushy but it was rather warm on 2/10. Spiral was good, Belfry was also great. The pencil is huge and the eraser has at least three decent lines on it. Didn't have a chance to get on anything in the amphitheatre but there's always next time.

Dezzi-unknown climber....is this you??? taken about 2-3pm on 2/11/14

Unknown climber on Designator, 2/11/14.

Fang/picture of fracture

Fang as of 2/11/2014.

Belfry Area

Backside of Eraser, 2/11/14.

Pencil.
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

My partner and I are planning to get on Hidden Falls in Glenwood Canyon on our way back from Indian Creek this weekend. Has anyone been on the falls lately? If so, how's the climb? And also, how was the river crossing? Was it frozen enough to cross with dry feet?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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