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Draws Stolen after left due to thunderstorm July 3rd, Easter Rock


James Glover · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 5

To be clear, we were probably out of the area 7:30? I didn't really check the time.

My statement regarding 9pm was intended as follows :

At the time we left it was storming, dark and it seemed everyone was leaving the crag. Driving out of the canyon most climbers were leaving the canyon. My assumption was that likely no one else would be coming to climb at Easter Rock. It is possible obviously. So, again, assuming, likely the climbers that took the draws were there and saw us leave. I used 9pm as a generic gauge of time, anyone coming to the crag a 7:30 or shortly thereafter would probably not go to the cliff due to the storm. We were there just prior to 7am the next morning, saw no one.

and overton, it was a Dodge Colt, not a Ford Fiesta!

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,791
TR purist wrote: n00bs have to pay their dues. .
I'd say this just about sums up the gear thief argument. Bravo, you failed Kindergarten Values 101. Your self-righteousness is surely a beacon of light for douchebags the world around.
Cocoapuffs 1000 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 10
TR purist wrote: n00bs have to pay their dues.
Here's a thought: if you saw a novice climber bailing and leaving a ton of gear, and thought that this wasn't okay, you could JUST FUCKING TELL THEM that it's not okay. That way A) they learn their lesson (which is allegedly the point of this gear thievery) and B) you don't have to be a fucking dick.

If you saw someone bail due to weather and snatched their gear, you would be a dick in 1965 and you're still a dick now.
Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

No f'in doubt i'm a huge Dick , my few friends will back that up.

Booty is still booty though, dont forget it.

Just tryin to help really.

And yeah mark Dixon, im just a local yokel, never been anywhere...

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

OK, from what everyone has written, the OP sounds like a decent guy. I'm not going to wade into the whole booty or not booty thing. Some good points have been made (though many more bad ones) so I'll let sleeping dogs lie.

However, I just wanted to insert this recent post about a guy who lost a cam as an example of what might be a better approach to this issue:

"Partner gave up trying to clean a Black Diamond C4 .3 (blue) on pitch 3 or 4 of Bastille Crack. If you found it, I'll make it worth your while to send it my way."

James Glover · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 5
Fat Dad wrote:OK, from what everyone has written, the OP sounds like a decent guy. I'm not going to wade into the whole booty or not booty thing. Some good points have been made (though many more bad ones) so I'll let sleeping dogs lie. However, I just wanted to insert this recent post about a guy who lost a cam as an example of what might be a better approach to this issue: "Partner gave up trying to clean a Black Diamond C4 .3 (blue) on pitch 3 or 4 of Bastille Crack. If you found it, I'll make it worth your while to send it my way."
You may be right and I have considered this in retrospect. I don't think I was overly heavy handed in my earlier posts, merely trying to describe what happened and stating "if the draws were taken without the intent to return them, it was theft". Titling the thread "stolen" garnered more views than otherwise.

Many folks here are espousing the "catch more flies with honey" idea, and perhaps that's true. That approach may have resulted in a better chance at getting the gear back. Maybe it's just me, but I don't feel that offering a reward in this situation is justified. While there are plenty of different potential scenarios, if felt like fellow climbers took the gear Tyler left due to weather, which is my mind is a pretty crummy thing to do. I personally will not justify, let alone, reward that behavior. I can't speak for Tyler though, after all it's his gear.
Greg Berry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

Let's stop hating on sport climbers. I like to sport climb. There I said it. I've come out and it feels good! Nothing like clipping a few bolts at Sandrock after mind melting slabs in North Carolina. Be a well rounded climber and stop being an elitist Dick. You will have more fun.

That's what this boils down to is people hatin'. Child please! This is obviously not booty. The Golden Rule. This rule trumps the laughable climbing ethics argument. You wouldn't want your draws stolen! They cost money!

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 405
Greg Berry wrote: Nothing like clipping a few bolts at Sandrock after mind melting slabs in North Carolina.
Heard That!
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 569
TR purist wrote: And yeah mark Dixon, im just a local yokel, never been anywhere...
I know Dana, he's a great guy with a unique perspective on life.

I don't know you, but that's not how you come across to me in this thread.
But who knows, it's just the internet.
Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85

The retrieval of 4 of the 6 draws could have been accomplished in a matter of a few minutes leaving a little bit of redundancy for a quick lower. I'm assuming that since the OP (despite being a badass who climbs really hard and stuff) was frightened by the weather they were also probably afraid to lower off a single bomber, new, 5 piece SS bolt, set deep and well in the bomber granite of the canyon.

But, you lost all of them. Why? Why not just a single biner?

PS- To all you big bad dudes who are making threats of physical violence, just understand that personally, I carry my Springfield 40 cal whenever I'm in Boulder Canyon. So, we'll see who pisses their pants first if you threaten me.

J. Albers · · Colorado · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,791
Dankasaurus wrote:The retrieval of 4 of the 6 draws could have been accomplished in a matter of a few minutes leaving a little bit of redundancy for a quick lower. I'm assuming that since the OP was frightened by the weather they were also probably afraid to lower off a single bomber, new, 5 piece SS bolt, innumerable, glittering deep in the bomber granite of the canyon. But, OP is either lazy or a weather pussy. So you lost 100% of your draws. Wicked sorry. PS- To all you big bad dudes who are making threats of physical violence, just understand that personally, I carry my Springfield 40 cal whenever I'm in Boulder Canyon. So, we'll see who pisses their pants first if you threaten me.
Wait, wait... leaving draws and being frightened by lightning makes you a pussy, but pulling a piece on someone makes you a big man? Got it. Check. Wait no, that is retarded. But good for you on carrying a firearm in the wild wild west environment that is Boulder Canyon. You never know when you are going to be accosted by a kale eating, dread wearing, stinky hippy. Best be prepared. Never leave home without the 40 cal and the foil helmet.
Dankasaurus · · Lyons, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 85
J. Albers wrote: Wait, wait... leaving draws and being frightened by lightning makes you a pussy, but pulling a piece on someone makes you a big man. Got it. Check. Wait no, that is retarded. But good for you on carrying a firearm in the wild wild west environment that is Boulder Canyon. You never know when you are going to be accosted by a of kale eating, dread wearing, stinky hippy. Best be prepared. Never leave home without the 40 cal and the foil helmet.
Fat Dad,

I would never pull a piece on anyone who was not directly threatening me or my loved ones or friends with physical violence. Nor would I aim the "piece" at anything but the ground until the last possible moment. Since you're an old guy, you probably understand the concept of deterrence.

My comment about carrying a piece in Boulder Canyon was intended to be a bit tongue in cheek, a response to the tough guys on the thread who are big and bad and like to strut on the web. There will almost certainly never be a need for me to even consider displaying a deadly weapon, let alone use it, because I'm not an aggressive beefcake douche and I don't steal shit.

Boulder Canyon is just awful these days, best avoided. Great rock, terrible folks.

-Skinny Weak Wool Pulling Player
s.price · · the deck of Rover or Pagosa… · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,346
Dankasaurus wrote:PS- To all you big bad dudes who are making threats of physical violence, just understand that personally, I carry my Springfield 40 cal whenever I'm in Boulder Canyon. So, we'll see who pisses their pants first if you threaten me.
Now that there is FUNNY!
Boissal - · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,363
Dankasaurus wrote:a response to the tough guys on the thread who are big and bad and like to strut on the web
As opposed to the tough guy on the thread who sprays about packing heat to the crag?
Got it.
I personally can't wait for the day when an argument about who gets to TR the 5.7 first gets resolved with a 40 cal.
Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

dang, this shit is getting funny now! I'm still waiting to hear why 6 draws were left instead of one bail biner. maybe its a 5.13 thing that davey on the road/internet could explain to all us n00bs

I almost met Dana one time, even tried to hook the guy up with partners once. thats how much of a dick I am.

Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Fat Dad wrote: I just wanted to insert this recent post about a guy who lost a cam as an example of what might be a better approach to this issue: "Partner gave up trying to clean a Black Diamond C4 .3 (blue) on pitch 3 or 4 of Bastille Crack. If you found it, I'll make it worth your while to send it my way."
right on except it could be a n00b 5.7 climber so it might not matter. nobody really gets it unless they climb 5.13.
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 569
TR purist wrote: I'm still waiting to hear why 6 draws were left instead of one bail biner.
I wasn't there, but this seems like a plausible scenario.
You arrive at the crag and lead the 5.12 warm up. You reach the anchors, shout down to your friend "Hey, should I clean this or do you want to climb it?"
He replies "leave the draws, I'll do it later, it's a great route."
You and your friend get distracted doing other climbs and the next thing you know it's late and starting to storm. So rather than risk the lightening, you plan to come back early the next day. You fully expect the draws to still be in place, since David is correct that leaving them in place is the generally accepted ethic at such a crag.
Mobes Mobesely · · Granite island · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865
Mark E Dixon wrote: I wasn't there, but this seems like a plausible scenario. You arrive at the crag and lead the 5.12 warm up. You reach the anchors, shout down to your friend "Hey, should I clean this or do you want to climb it?" He replies "leave the draws, I'll do it later, it's a great route." You and your friend get distracted doing other climbs and the next thing you know it's late and starting to storm. So rather than risk the lightening, you plan to come back early the next day. You fully expect the draws to still be in place, since David is correct that leaving them in place is the generally accepted ethic at such a crag.
plausible but still booty in my twisted mind

slightly off topic- leaving gear may be ethical(for climbers) at many crags, some that I used to frequent quite a bit like Maple and AF. leaving gear has also caused cliffs and areas to get shut down, camouflaged bolts are one thing regular hikers and landowners have usually been fine with but draws hanging all over crags is another. if we all want to be bros and treat each other with respect then dont close an area down for me because you are too lazy to hang dog up a route in the morning. who knows, maybe you could get a real redpoint(not a pinkpoint) on the first go???
chuffnugget · · Bolder, CO · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 0

This isn't a discussion about project or permadraws. It is about 6 draws left overnight after a storm. This was covered in the first paragraph.

You clearly have issues with modern sport climbing, but this is an awkward venue to vent your frustrations.

Turnbuckle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 95

A bail biner would have prevented this whole thing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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