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Buy La Sportiva, EXPECT delaminations!


Original Post
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269

Can't count how many pairs that have come through that are in varying degrees of delaminating.

Sure other shoe companies also have this issue occasionally. But NOT consistently!

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Locker,

Sniffing barge on a lovely Saturday afternoon eh? How good are you? What rubber do you have? What do you charge? Can you maintain most of the original shape and size? How sober are you when you resole?

I'm quite serious. I'm talking about my top shelf shoes, not my slop shoes. Are you up to it?

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 585

Do you have suggestions on glue to use to slow/stop it if shoes start to delaminate on the sides/less crucial areas?

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269

"How good are you?"


After three grams of "Crack", a fifth of Vodka, three joints and a few good huffs of GLUE, I'm still standing

That's how "GOOD" I am! (That should also answer the "How sober I am" question)

http://PositiveResoles.com

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269

"Do you have suggestions on glue to use to slow/stop it if shoes start to delaminate on the sides/less crucial areas?"...

Barge or Masters glue and thinner (One or the other should be available at most hardware stores), a wire brush (Harbor Freight sells decent ones. Home Depot type stores probably do too). Rough the area of concern up pretty good with the wire brush, then follow the instructions on the glue containers.

Making sure the area is CLEAN, roughed up (Both sides!) and NOT overdoing the glue is the ticket to ride!

. Mobes · · MDI · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 865

I had my shoes done by Positive Resoles in JTree about 10-15 years ago and it was a really nice resole. Different owner I think but the name is still the same!

Is a clamp or two handy for the glue fix it jobs? I've never had problems with factory glue-jobs but they probably water the shit down these days and I dont climb enough to buy new shoes very often now.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269
"Different owner I think but the name is still the same!"...

Correct! I think Bartlett had it then. Next was Kevin and Seth, then me. Needless to say, of all of us, I am by far the best...

;-)

"Is a clamp or two handy for the glue fix it jobs?"



Yes! I use them. Though not that often and not for the resoles themselves. Sometimes when doing reglues on the uppers. But even then, not that often.
Alex McIntyre · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 485

Hey Locker, is the XS Grip rubber you have the original XS Grip or is it the newer XS Grip2 that comes standard on the Solutions?

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 10

Yeah, I have to agree. My Katana Lace delaminated after only 1 season. I had it resoled locally with XS Grip which I think is stickier than XS Edge but wears much quicker. Too bad!

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

La Sprotiva used to make the best shoes, but I trust Locker enough that I'm gonna have to move on to a new brand for my next pair. Bummer. I'm thinking Tanaya.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

its a very well known issue ... and fairly widespread among the people i climb with

its funny how my 50$ climbx shoes are more durable than sportivas triple the price

or how resoled sportivas dont have that problem

;)

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195

Had that problem with both my Miuras and katana lace. Took em back to REI got a new pair and they did the same thing. I just figured that I was stepping up my game? They did it again. Got em re soled at rock n resole never happened again. BTW I lost their number, can anyone look it up for me...

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Looks like things havent overly improved the last 2 years ...

Or maybe those brits dun know how to use their rubbahs

ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php…

;)

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

With the amount of money Sportiva charges, I would expect better. I have been an Evolv fan forever and I have never had any issues with their shoes in any way, and I have owned some 10+ pairs.

JNE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,035

FWIW, I used to climb in Methos all the time and I never had a single pair NOT have the rands delaminate. The same thing has also happened on 95-99% of the other Sportivas I have owned.

What was pointed out to me was that the Sportiva glue is very temperature dependent, and that the delaminating always occurred after the shoes were left in my car during a hot day, so a simple solution is just to never let your shoes sit in a hot car or other similar environment.

I absolutely LOVE sportivas design philosophy and their shoes fit my foot shape as good or better than any other manufacturer so I'm just hoping to give them some positive feedback to improve their products ;)

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

The UK and the PNW is not exactly known for its uber hawt temps

Not to mention that this doesnt affect my other brands or resoles

Perhaps sportiva should consider using a different bit of glue if its glue is that sensitive?

If not then obviously sportivas would be utterly and absolutely unsuitable for folks making road trips in their cars

;)

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 877

My TC pros have this problem, but my mythos never did.

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50
  • lights torch*
  • knocks dust off pitchfork*
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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