Bad anchors
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There have been a few of these over the years but I never get tired of them. Post your picture of a bad anchor or any other sketchy pro. |
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DannyUncanny wrote:Aw, c'mon, that won't slip off with the first weight put on it!!! |
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Damn, I have used my fair share of shit anchors, but those two photos are pretty ludicrous. I would not rap off either. I would leave gear. The second would not be so insane if the rope was in the middle of the block, where it couldn't slip out the left side. |
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The only thing possible was a piton in the smooth Navajo sandstone. Or a risky downclimb. |
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20 kN wrote:The second would not be so insane if the rope was in the middle of the block, where it couldn't slip out the left side.If you did that, you would never get your rope down. |
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The drilled pin really isn't that bad for a downward pull, except that it is not redundant. Two of those would be bomber. I have taken lead falls onto those and they are pretty solid. They can be stronger than an expansion bolt in softer rock because expansion bolts can fracture the rock without visible signs. Whereas a drilled pin gets hammered into a pre drilled hole. YMMV |
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Bomber |
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Totally Bomber
Canyoneers sneer at climbers' antipathy to rapping off of substandard anchors. Seriously though - you rap off some sketchy stuff in canyons. We didn't even think twice about this. (Pandora's Box - Capitol Reef) |
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Austin Baird wrote: Canyoneers sneer at climbers' antipathy to rapping off of substandard anchors. Seriously though - you rap off some sketchy stuff in canyons. (Pandora's Box - Capitol Reef)+1 climbers have nothing on canyoneers. |
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DannyUncanny wrote: If you did that, you would never get your rope down.Running a rope directly around a piece of rock is retarded. The proper way is to sling the rock and throw a rap ring or biner on the sling. With that method I would get my rope back. |
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mr. mango wrote:The only thing possible was a piton in the smooth Navajo sandstone. Or a risky downclimb.Yeah, like one or two more equalized drilled pitons wasn't a possibility. Why trust you and your partners' lives to three equalized shitty anchors when you can get by with one without a backup? What could go wrong? |
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Mango - I'd love to see what these guys would say about rapping off a deadman, a hook, or a sandtrap. |
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Austin Baird wrote:Mango - I'd love to see what these guys would say about rapping off a deadman, a hook, or a sandtrap.After you see a few clusterfucks from skanky rappel anchors in real mountains at twilight, you tend to exercise a little more caution and be less cavalier regarding what you're willing to trust or pressure your partners to trust. What's the saying? Good judgement comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgement. |
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Austin Baird wrote:Mango - I'd love to see what these guys would say about rapping off a deadman, a hook, or a sandtrap.haha yeah me too. |
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TWK wrote: Yeah, like one or two more equalized drilled pitons wasn't a possibility. Why trust you and your partners' lives to three equalized shitty anchors when you can get by with one without a backup? What could go wrong?Unfortunately this isnt a drilled piton. It is hammered into the soft sandstone and in the effort of keeping the canyon as clean as possible, we decided to use one pin. |
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mr. mango wrote: Unfortunately this isnt a drilled piton. It is hammered into the soft sandstone and in the effort of keeping the canyon as clean as possible, we decided to use one pin.Well, I'm just glad that it worked out for you, and you're here to post its picture. I'm personally too chicken$hit to rap off sketchy stuff like that anymore. I guess, either way, you're keeping the canyon as clean as possible--the big greasy hairy bloodstain at the bottom will wash off with the next rain. ;-) " . . . plummeting like dead weights . . . with a whoosh!, accelerating at the rate of thirty-two feet per second to land with a hideous plop! . . . and die disgustingly there in public like an alpaca sack full of hairy strawberry ice cream, bleeding, pink toes awry." Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
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It's just you seemed to think it's some kind of joke to rap off skanky anchors. Just using a literary reference to previsualize the spectrum of reasonably possible outcomes. Climbers whose anchors fail needlessly are subject to the same laws of nature as anybody else, whether semi-fictional pilots from the last century or any page torn from "Accidents in North American Mountaineering." |
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TWK - if you've never gotten into canyoneering, I can understand why you'd react to these anchors the way that you are. Climbers will ensure that their rap anchors are as safe as they can be made and they see rappelling as a chore and a danger. |
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Austin Baird wrote:These "sketchy" anchors are more stable than you think.I appreciate the different perspective. I suppose I wouldn't be too enthused trying to keep up with you guys in the slot canyons for a day. We've had our epics on multiple raps in the peaks, and seen other climbers really get hurt bad on descent, so we probably over-emphasize the security of the anchors. But I'm okay with that. |