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whats the deal w 80m ropes

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

Just be aware that someone seconding on a skinny 70 or 80 that's been strung out full-length over multiple pitches is at risk down low when they first start climbing. I have a good friend who's a top climber but still ended up with a broken ankle from rope stretch alone when her foot popped off a hold unexpectedly about twenty feet above the belay ledge.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,387
Healyje wrote: Just be aware that someone seconding on a skinny 70 or 80 that's been strung out full-length over multiple pitches is at risk down low when they first start climbing. I have a good friend who's a top climber but still ended up with a broken ankle from rope stretch alone when her foot popped off a hold unexpectedly about twenty feet above the belay ledge.

Ever the more true for the leader, of course.  Yes, X% * 80M is going to be plenty of rope.  
But as it just so happens, I also have an 85M.

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50
Stiles wrote: What is the advantage of an 80m rope, or are they a novelty to 'raise the bar'?
1. You routinely cut about 10' of the rope's end. Those extra 33' of rope is extra 3 cuts before retiring "outdoor" rope to "gym" rope.

2. Working long 30m sport route with 70m is a big no-no. Just before you ready to send you find both ends of your rope should be cut. Thus, you cannot send 'cause your rope just became too short.

3. There are lot of just below 40m routes. E.g., the first pitch of Salathe, Lunatic Fringe, Moby Dick, Ahab, etc. An 80m rope is nice to have if you want to work those pitches on TR.

4. One 80m rope cuts in two 40m gym ropes.

5. If you have no idea why you need an 80m rope there are chances you actually do not need it.
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456
Tony B wrote:

Ever the more true for the leader, of course.  Yes, X% * 80M is going to be plenty of rope.  

Definitely, but I'd say leader risks are normally well-recognized by most folks whereas a lot of folks don't think of the possible consequences for a second falling close to the start.
falling monkey · · The West · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 30

I just looked into the matter and noticed that they are about 10m longer than a 70m rope. Hope that helps. 

Andrew McQ · · Prescott, AZ · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Long ropes are fantastic for linking pitches together (my partner and I once did the Scenic Cruise in 8 pitches, Maiden Voyage in 2).  I've also found that they can eliminate the need to carry two ropes for many towers and multipitch routes because they're long enough for many raps that are too big for a 70 m, but for which two 60 m ropes may be overkill, so I'm actually carrying less weight. Some places (like Indian Creek) also have pitches that are long enough to require 80 m ropes.

That being said, it sucks to do a 30 m pitch and pull up an additional 50 m before I put my partner on.

MisterE Wolfe · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 6,811
fallingmonkey wrote: I just looked into the matter and noticed that they are about 10m longer than a 70m rope. Hope that helps. 

LOL. Thanks, Master of the Obvious! 

Sam X · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

What's the deal with airplane food?

Skye Swoboda-Colberg · · Laradise, Dornans, Bham, Cr… · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 115

Just buy a 200 meter spool so you can make an 80, 70, and a 50.

MisterE Wolfe · · Bishop, CA · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 6,811
Skye Swoboda-Colberg wrote: Just buy a 200 meter spool so you can make an 80, 70, and a 50.

Then cut the 50 down to a 40 so you know where to put the anchors on your new route! :)

Cabot Steward · · Smog Lake City · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 7
camhead wrote: Indian Creek. Hopefully, they'll come out with a 9.2mm x 90m soon; I hate hauling up a second line to get off of some of those pitches.

Beal makes their Joker in a 90m.  So 9.1mm x 90m.

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 430
camhead wrote: Indian Creek. Hopefully, they'll come out with a 9.2mm x 90m soon; I hate hauling up a second line to get off of some of those pitches.

I have a 8.6 Beal Opera and love it. We climbed Maiden Voyage in two pitches! it's rated to single, half and twin, so you can tie into the middle and do 150 foot pitches of doubles

Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 430
Fritz Nuffer wrote:

I have a 8.6 Beal Opera and love it. We climbed Maiden Voyage in two pitches! it's rated to single, half and twin, so you can tie into the middle and do 150 foot pitches of doubles

I also had a 90 Joker, but I like the Opera more. It weighs the same as my 9.6 70 m

Adam Ronchetti · · Madison, WI · Joined May 2011 · Points: 25
MisterE Wolfe wrote:

90 meter rope? OH COME ON! Just stop with this stupidity. I am still trying to get to 80 meters and now there are recommendations for a 90 METER Rope?


Let's see what comes up:

90 meter rope search

I thought not.

Wait, what?

120 meter ropes.

Do you just buy a spool and cut off what you need? Stop the madness.

That's actually what we did. Bought a 200m spool. Cut off 2 60m ropes and the 80m. Sold the 60m for like $100 each or something like that.

Also I went back to the guidebook and checked. I was talking out of my ass about the 90m. Sorry about that.


But the 80 is recommended. 

Jared Casper · · Scotts Valley, CA · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 10

(Just pretend it isn't static.)

Source
Fritz Nuffer · · The Western Slope · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 430
Jared Casper wrote:

(Just pretend it isn't static.)

Source

Baller! Looks like something the rangers would have on a spool and throw down North Chasm  to rescue people on Scenic.

John Clark · · San Francisco · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 477

Wait, when did climbers start complaining about having more gear? I got my 80s for max $175 (one was even a dry coated 9.5mm)

Ryan McDermott · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 110
Brian in SLC wrote: What is the advantage of an 80m rope Popular in spots where you need that length of rope to get back to the ground after a long, single pitch. Especially a long, steep route with no mid anchor. A few places in Europe see a fair bit of use with 80m ropes. Not a handy length in the U.S. for most crags. Maybe Mount Charleston is one place they'd be useful?

Lion’s Head! Also any long crag with approach from the top, like Endless Wall at the New: you can rap in practically anywhere. 

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

The deal is they are 20 meters longer than a 60, and 10 meters longer than a 70...

Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 624

Here's a deal on a 320 meter rope

Looooong rope​​​

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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