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Shoe problem


Original Post
knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

How many pairs of shoes do you take to the crag with you? My pack never has less than three pairs, and often up to five or six, in it and some of the looks I get from people make me think I'm a little crazy. Obviously when doing a multi pitch or towers I'll only take one, TC Pros almost always, but when cragging I like to have options. The usual suspects include but are not limited to; TC Pros, Cobras, Katana lace, Spectres, and either grandstones or JB's. So... How many pairs is usual for you? What are they? Am I fucking crazy?

Dom · · New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,110
knowbuddy wrote:How many pairs of shoes do you take to the crag with you? My pack never has less than three pairs, and often up to five or six, in it and some of the looks I get from people make me think I'm a little crazy. Obviously when doing a multi pitch or towers I'll only take one, TC Pros almost always, but when cragging I like to have options. The usual suspects include but are not limited to; TC Pros, Cobras, Katana lace, Spectres, and either grandstones or JB's. So... How many pairs is usual for you? What are they? Am I fucking crazy?
Sounds like you may have a shoe obsession. I definitely own a few pairs but I'll never take more than 2 with me at the crag. If I'm going to climb at a predominantly overhung crag, then I'll bring something more aggressive like Muira VS. If I'm climbing vertical/slabby granite, then it's 5.10 Anasazis, for long multi-pitch 5.10 Moccs etc. So I don't think you need that many pairs of shoes with you at the crag. just take the pair that will suit the kind of climbing you're gonna do that day.
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

2...usually LS Murias and then a less agressive shoe.

Oh and flip flops. So with approach shoes, flippys and climbing shoes I guess that's technically 4. :o)

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

5 or 6 pairs of shoes at the crag? That's awesome.

Usually just one pair for me, sometimes i"ll throw in a pair of moccs for warmups.

Jeff J · · Bozeman · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

Never more than one pair for me.
I useally hit the craig with a game plan and know how hard I will be climbing based on which climbing partner Im with out of the 4 people I useally climb with.

If Im on 5.10b or less I like my Mythos
for harder than mid 5.10s I like my Muria lace ups.

I never feel like Im being limited by my shoes so I dont bother to pack a rack of shoes.

knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

A rack of shoes! I like it haha

Adam Leedy · · Austin, TX · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 785

I have a shoe fetish for sure. I can't help myself, I love to have different shoes for different things, even though I know it isn't necessary.
I own at least five pairs of climbing shoes that get used on the reg (Moccs, Arrowheads, Blackwings, Hornets, Copperheads).

Add to that the fact that I'm also a runner. So trail shoes, road shoes, long distance shoes, sprint shoes. And a cyclist so, road shoes, mtb shoes, commuter shoes, CX shoes.

Yeah, it's obscene, but I don't care!

I really just have one pair of normal shoes that I wear every day.

That said, I never take more than two pair of climbing shoes to the crag. These days I pretty much only climb in my Five Ten Arrowheads and Blackwings. Blackwings are the best shoes I've ever owned!

If you can't tell, I'm a Five Ten fanboy as well.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

A pair of crack/slab/moderate shoes and maybe something more aggressive for harder climbs

Shoes can make a difference, but not enough to warrant carrying 6 pairs in a day

Think of it this way, how are ya gonna do long hard multi with only a single pair if you cant climb well without 6 pairs ;)

CraigS. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10

Only 2 - chaco's for approach/belay slave duty and muira's for the climbing.

Tony T. · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 45

Yeah, some people are shoe obsessed. It's OK though. So long as you're OK with carrying them, you'll always be prepared for anything.

That said, two for me. Comfy and aggressive.

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

You bring 5-6 pairs of climbing shoes with you to the crag? That IS fucking crazy!

If I'm doing multipitch or climbing that requires much jamming, I'll use my Mythos. Anything else, I'll use my Miuras. If I'm unsure I MAY throw both into my bag, but that's very rare and I've never actually had to use both at a single crag in one day. I plan to use my 20% off REI coupon to pick up some TC Pros tomorrow, but I figure those will just replace the Mythos in most situations.

If the approach is relatively short/easy, I'll just wear my flip flops to the crag. Otherwise I'll usually wear hiking/approach shoes and throw the flip flops in my bag (unless it's cold or I'm doing multipitch).

Howrad McGreehan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

I take a single pair of shoes to the crag. They generally have holes in the toes, which I have been known to have and keep even when they get tot he size of quarters.

I don't have much money.

I find that if the climb is hard, and my shoes are crap; I'll just have to climb better. Simple as that.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,053

For cragging, usually two pairs, three on a rare occasion. Typically a slipper for cracks and an edging/face shoe. If there's a third it's usually a hightop or blownout/old/easyroute shoe to avoid wear on the good shoes for pitches well below my limit.

Rajiv Ayyangar · · Portland, ME · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 210
Howrad McGreehan wrote:I take a single pair of shoes to the crag. They generally have holes in the toes, which I have been known to have and keep even when they get tot he size of quarters. I don't have much money. I find that if the climb is hard, and my shoes are crap; I'll just have to climb better. Simple as that.
I can attest to the fact that I've seen this dude climb hard basically barefoot (his toes were worn all the way through). It's like weight training for your footwork. Rock on Howrad!

I think shoes make a huge difference in climbing. Not only quantitatively (better shoes can help you climb better) but qualitatively (shoes can make you focus on different things). I'd settled on the Solutions for most things, but recently picked up the Futuras (thinner sole, no-edge concept). I'm still not sure they are better, but they've definitely changed my footwork and made my toes more sensitive and responsive on small smears. I think changing up footwear, or experimenting with thinner/more aggressive shoes can be a great thing for your climbing progression.
knowbuddy Buddy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 225

It sounds like I'm a fucking crazy superstitious shoe whore who will never going to be able to climb hard with only one pair. C'mon you guys don't really only take one pair right? And you don't actually expect me to buy that crap about being able to climb hard with holes in your shoes do you? If you don't have the proper shoe, how can you be sure your going to send?

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,280

I've climbed at my limit on a half dozen different types of rock in three different continents all in the same shoes. Five Ten Galileos.

That said, I do have a lot of shoes in different sizes. Old as dirt Anasazis in comfy size for the gym. Evolv Pontas in tight size for steep limestone and two sizes of Galileos depending what kind of climbing I'm doing. Never take more than one pair though.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122

Usually just 1, my moccs, occasionally I'll throw in a second pair if I think I may need something better for edging, the second pair usually doesn't end up getting used.

Greg Springer · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

5.10 team and my Keens, I prefer not having to consult a map before digging through my backpack

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,265

I always carry at least two pairs when "Cragging"...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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