Climbing in CO vs Gunks
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I'm hoping to head to the Gunks for a few days soon and am wondering what sort of climbs I should set my sights on. Anybody used to climbing in Colorado and have insight to share on differences/similarities in the climbing type and grades? |
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i grew up climbing in the gunks. spent time there from about 1990 to 1998, then moving to colorado. that being said, i think the gunks have some stiff rating, and colorado (depending on where) could be a bit softer. say, if you always climb in bolter canyon ;D on newer sport routes, they are way soft compared to the gunks. |
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Ya start low and work your way up for sure... |
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Gunks 5.5 = Colorado 5.10. Okay...only kidding but that would start a great flame war. I climb at the Gunks a lot and have climbed in CO a fair amount. The grades in Eldo and Lumpy Ridge are comparable to the Gunks. The reason that some of the climbs, especially the lower grades, are so stiff at the Gunks is that they were first done in the 1930s and 40s and back then the hardest thing in the country was 5.7 so something graded 5.6 was pretty darn hard. The Gunks have lots of overhangs/roofs so when we eastern climbers go out west we think your roofs are pretty easy. On the other hand many Gunks climbers may get spanked on a Layton Kor crack on Lumpy Ridge. Hope this helps. Have fun at the Gunks. |
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Sarah Meiser wrote:(I led Positively 4th Street recently even though I usually don't lead 5.9). I'm kind of a chicken and comfortably onsight 5.7+ trad here in Colorado even though I can climb much harder. Any advice/tips appreciated. Thanks!I basically learned to trad lead at the Gunks (and NH), and now have been living in Colorado for 6+ years. My feeling is that the Gunks aren't really any harder than Lumpy or Eldo, but a different style of climbing. (At least once you get to the 5.7 level... perhaps the low 5's at the Gunks seem harder than low 5's here... then again, I was more freaked out moving here and doing run out easy east faces of the flatirons than I was climbing juggy, well protected 5.5s at the Gunks) If you have a gym or sport climbing background, the Gunks will actually seem much more straight forward. The cracks are mostly horizontal creating good jugs and holds. Although a similarly steep and sustained climb at the gym would probably get a stiffer rating, the basic technique is the same. By contrast, out here, we have far more vertical cracks that require crack climbing technique which gym/sport climbers generally lack. (Moving west, I had to spend quite a bit of time improving my crack technique). Furthermore, the flared cracks at Lumpy are even more challenging to not only climb, but also to protect well. The Gunks also tends to protect much better than many of the climbs here in Colorado. With the exception of splitter cracks like at Indian Creek (did I just imply the creek is in Colorado ;) ), I've never climbed at a place with more gear options than the Gunks. Sure, there are run out lines there, but if you stay on the routes rated "G" in the guide book, you will be perfectly safe. Route finding at the Gunks can be a bit more challenging. Rather than just following up a crack, you are climbing a face with horizontal cracks. Unless you are in a corner, it might not be obvious where to go... this could lead to accidentally going a harder way or a more run out route. The Gunks also requires trust. You will get to a 5.5 roof and it might seem like it is harder than 5.5, but then you reach up and there are HUGE jugs just over the lip. (or course, if you are off route this might not be the case). So, in summary, I don't think the Gunks are any harder than Eldo/Lumpy, but it is a different style of climbing. I do think gym skills will translate well there, and as long as you make a reasonable selection of climbs, everything you try should be pretty safe. That being said, there are SUPER fun easy routes at the Gunks, such as "High E" and "Shockley's Ceiling" at 5.6... they are classics as well. So, the best thing you can do, is start with a few of the easy classics, see how you feel, and then work your way up. Oh, the biggest challenge at the Gunks is waiting in line to get on the climb you want to do on a beautiful fall weekend day... |
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I climbed a long time in the Gunks before moving out west. Couple of things |
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Chuck is right on. It's not that much harder - just different. |
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I agree with most of what's been said so far - grades seem pretty comparable to Eldo, but if you're not used to the style of climbing it can seem harder. It's true not every climb has a roof, but there are a lot of them. It's actually really fun to climb through roofs that are really pretty easy and feel like a badass. |
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When and for how long? |
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a really good combination training plan for the gunks would be climbing in the gym combined with climbing at eldo. gym for the muscles, eldo for the mind. the climbing at the gunks is generally really straight forward if you are fit. the protection is usually good, but it can be runout in places also. to me it seemed like the funout climbing was generally on fairly positive climbing, so it didn't seem like too big of a deal. the rock quality is usually very good also. |
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Brian wrote:Gunks 5.5 = Colorado 5.10. Okay...only kidding but that would start a great flame war. I climb at the Gunks a lot and have climbed in CO a fair amount. The grades in Eldo and Lumpy Ridge are comparable to the Gunks. The reason that some of the climbs, especially the lower grades, are so stiff at the Gunks is that they were first done in the 1930s and 40s and back then the hardest thing in the country was 5.7 so something graded 5.6 was pretty darn hard. The Gunks have lots of overhangs/roofs so when we eastern climbers go out west we think your roofs are pretty easy. On the other hand many Gunks climbers may get spanked on a Layton Kor crack on Lumpy Ridge. Hope this helps. Have fun at the Gunks.Actually in the 30's and 40's NOTHING was rated 5.x anything. The YDS hadn't been invented. But most of the advice upstream is pretty good. Take time to dial in the subtleties of the style and the routefinding. Same as traveling to any new place. Routes in CO and the Gunks that are rated the same and were put up in the same era are comparable in difficulty - may require different techniques though. |
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Cor wrote: then there is modern times 5.8, has a roof that your feet cut loose from. it seems huge for an 8... i would just suggest starting a grade or two below your general lead ability. then work up. like i said, there are no bad routes, so don't worry about, oh it's only a 5.4 or whatever, it will be fun! cheers, cRegular Gunks climber here that recommended Modern Times to a regular J-Tree climber when he asked for a 5.8.5.9. After he did it, he tracked me down to tell me never to recommend it anyone looking for something in that range again. He told me it was every bit a 5.10 to him. J-Tree is insanely stiff, so I would watch out the that route. I think it is more sandbagged than average. |
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Eric Engberg wrote: Actually in the 30's and 40's NOTHING was rated 5.x anything. The YDS hadn't been invented. But most of the advice upstream is pretty good. Take time to dial in the subtleties of the style and the routefinding. Same as traveling to any new place. Routes in CO and the Gunks that are rated the same and were put up in the same era are comparable in difficulty - may require different techniques though.Right you are...except that YDS was invented, just not for 5th class climbs. From Wikipedia: The Yosemite Decimal System was initially developed as the Sierra Club grading system in the 1930s to classify hikes and climbs in the Sierra Nevada. Class 5 was subdivided in the 1950s (at Tahquitz). So I should have said 1950s. Even some of the early FA climbers rated Gunks climb harder than the early guidebook authors. When first climbing "Sixish" the second asked the leader what the grade was and he yelled down "sixish." It is rated 5.4+. Beware the "+" routes at the Gunks. |
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not relevant to climbing but: Go to the Mountain Brauhaus!!! Across the street from the EMS. So tasty. Great beer selection (Spaten Octoberfest is excellent), and awesome German food. |
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I lived in the gunks and climbed there for 10 years and was a preserve ranger for a few years. Now live in nederland and am a colorado climber. |
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Alicia Sokolowski wrote: Regular Gunks climber here that recommended Modern Times to a regular J-Tree climber when he asked for a 5.8.5.9. After he did it, he tracked me down to tell me never to recommend it anyone looking for something in that range again. He told me it was every bit a 5.10 to him. J-Tree is insanely stiff, so I would watch out the that route. I think it is more sandbagged than average.Honestly, I am not really sure that Modern Times even deserves the plus in the 5.8+. |
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Tom Ormond wrote:I lived in the gunks and climbed there for 10 years and was a preserve ranger for a few years. Now live in nederland and am a colorado climber. if you have questions about the climbing there or anything else hit me up. Would be glad to tell you about my favorite place in the universe.You Da Man Tommy. And to the OP, you really should hit Tom up for some beta. Have Fun Dying! |
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John, |
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JohnWesely wrote: Honestly, I am not really sure that Modern Times even deserves the plus in the 5.8+.That was the only route I got on at the gunks that I thought was sandbagged. Double-issima was easier and that gets 10b? Then again I kept traversing right on Modern times because it was that hand crack was SWEET! |