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The 2012-13 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread


seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Got out to the park today but ultimately ended up turning back after hopelessly post holing up to the crypt. Oh well, so it goes. There's always scotch lol.

The Crypt, 2/3/13.

Deep Freeze on 2/3/13 from afar.

Unknown ice near Deep Freeze zoomed in, 2/3/13.
A.P.Lee · · Boulder, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20

Went to lincoln falls yesterday, conditions are awesome. Main flow right and the pillars aren't doing to well, but everything to the left is huge, plenty of great ice.

...also, found a screw there yesterday morning, tell me what kind and where you might have lost it and its yours.

Jim Clarke · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 78

Humped into Black Lake yesterday. Doinked around at Jewel Lake overflow on the way. Got to Black Lake too late for W. Gully (partner had to catch a flight) so we climbed this flow/mini-pillars thing right of Black Lake Slabs. Seems like a separate climb that I haven't seen in before, named route? someone had been on it. Good short WI4 pillars. Slabs are in REALLY FAT with a lot of cool options. West Gully looked a bit lean/sublimated and the Stoneman/Black Curtain area was really thin...bummer. The stuff on the left slabs below Black Lake is in pretty good and could make for some decent bouldering/short solos or beginner leads.

West Gully, 2/4/13.

Further right from W. Gully...Reflections?

Stoneman area....

Anyone know if this is a named route?

Closer view...Black Lake Slabs Pillar?

Rest ledge between two short pillar/steeper flows....
luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 759

Hiked in to check No Thoroughfare Falls 2/3/2013.

No Thoroughfare Falls in Colorado National Monument:

No Thouroghfare Falls, 2/3/2013.
Doesn't look like it will form this year.
luke Lydiard · · Mammoth Lakes, CA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 759

Checked out Train Route in Cimarron on 2/3/2013. Climb 5.17 in the Jack Roberts book.

Train Route, 2/3/2013.

The bottom of the curtain just touched down and didn't look like it would hold so we didn't climb it. The rest of the pitch was 2-4 inches thick with some pockets of snow behind the ice. Looks as if it just formed after the last snow. Not a lot of snow in the small bowl above to add moisture to the flow.

We also walked a couple of minutes down the road to the dam and looked at what we think is Derailed. Climb 5.18 in the Roberts. There was a maybe 20 meter blob/slab to the lookers left of the actual dam. Getting to this would require climbing around a razor wire covered fence with some pretty serious no trespassing signs on it. Definitely not worth it. I'm going to cross this one out of the book.
willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Well folks, this is getting kinda sad methinks.

Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 725
Shameless Shaemus wrote:Got to Black Lake too late for W. Gully (partner had to catch a flight) so we climbed this flow/mini-pillars thing right of Black Lake Slabs. Seems like a separate climb that I haven't seen in before, named route? someone had been on it. Good short WI4 pillars.
Greg Sievers and partner did that nice steep climb at Black Lake a couple of weeks ago. He had never seen it appear before, and it's not in any of the photos of this area. But of course that doesn't mean it's never been done before!
Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 725

The Moffatt Tunnel ice (north facing) was good this weekend, with a bit more ice than usual (probably because of less snow at the bottom!) and the opportunity to set up fun dry-tooling top-ropes on either side. It's still a short, overcrowded smidgeon of ice, but it's better than usual. Someone's been trying to farm more ice, and although there seems to be good potential for it, the new stuff that started to form is brittle and unclimbable.

Jim Clarke · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 78

Thanks Dougald...was a nice option for the day. Wondering if there are some other "named" routes or lines up on the ridge and slabs below Black Lake? I guess one is Reflections? Seems like there are more flows there this year, some stuff up high and one good long slab that's frozen over. Thanks again.

Spencer Dries · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 95

Shameless Shaemus

That is not Relfections. See-

mountainproject.com/v/refle…

Jim Clarke · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 78

Yeah man, was talking about the ice flows below Black Lake which I believe one of them is Reflections per description. The route we did is right of Black Lake Slabs.

Matt Klick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 50

Hidden Falls of Glenwood Canyon is in pretty fat, if SUPER slushy and wet on P1. Good screws can be found, with some discerning eyes, amid the plated weirdness. FYI: we ran into Union Pacific security. He was stern, but reasonable, and let us quickly scamper over the tracks and up the hill, but a party a little further back was scuttled (I'm not sure why, other than maybe they still had more tracks to cross?). I recommend we be courteous and discrete, and hope for the best - this could get bad, as there is no other good way other than using the tracks right-of-way to some degree....

bgleason Gleason · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??

seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general?

Thanks,

Seth

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
bgleason wrote:Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??
Looked "decent" when I drove by this past weekend.
Portwood · · Your moms house last night · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 45
seth0687 wrote:Anything recent on Martha or the longs pk circ in general? Thanks, Seth
couple climbed it two weeks ago and said it was super dry, dont know what is looks like after the new snow last week.

Also, Alexanders was climeable but pretty dry in the thinner spots. Darkstar and Dreamweaver looked like they should be holding ice and there is deffinantly ice in the loft. Doesn't look like smears will come in.
Scotty Nelson · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 835

Does anyone know what conditions are like in Vail?

logan johnson · · West Copper, Co · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 315

^Given the time of year, not great.

Pretty much everything free standing except for the Des and the Pencil is out.
Firehouse Right has 2 or 3 leadable lines, the left only has one. Pitkin and Pumphouse are in but not near as fat as they should be.
Haven't been up to spiral but it looks kinda hacked out and acrappy from the highway.

Baumer · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 193
bgleason wrote:Any updates for the Silver Plume flow??
I climbed there on Monday. It was my first time there so I don't have any point of comparison to past seasons, but there were three lines to be climbed with decent ice. I'm guessing this is typical given the south-facing aspect, but by 11am it was already getting excessively soft and wet, so we bailed. Cold weather would be good...
bgleason Gleason · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Awesome. Thanks for the update. That's really helpful!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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