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RRG: Favorite sport 10's?


Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290

Hi all:
Heading to the Red next week (all weekdays) for the first time. Any any favorite sport routes at the 5.10 grade that I should add to my list? Easier 11's would also be of interest, or even sub-10 megaclassics I shouldn't miss.

Food recommendations also welcome (besides Miguel's, that one I've heard of!).

Thanks,
David

johnthethird · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

Breakfast Burrito, 10c (or d)

Air ride equipped 11a

Kurt Swanson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 125

The Gallery has some great moderates, including

A Brief History of Climb
27 Years of Climbing

Edit: Also, Tectonic wall has one of my favorite climbs ever, along with some great easy climbing:

Gettin Lucky in Kentucky

Zane Dordai · · Salt Lake City · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 65

Breakfast burrito and its neighbor, fire and brimstone, are probably two of the best 5.10s I have done anywhere. Fire is a little more cryptic and the crux is down low. Breakfast burrito has a perfect crimping section to a huge rest and then a perfect exposed boulder problem. Do both of these climbs.

Also, Whip Stocking. Same cliff. No hard moves, just classic Red pump.

Get psyched, the Red is the best climbing I've done in the US (been to RMNP, Joe's, Bishop, Rumney....) and primarily a boulderer. The rock is beautiful and perfect.

Food is tough; there is a horrible grocery kinda close (Sav a lot) but there is a Kroger in Winchester (I think it's winchester).

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,280

I thought all of the 10's at whichever wall Breakfast BUrrito is on were really good. BB was the first route I did in a month long trip to the Red and it stood up to most of the other routes, even harder ones.

There is a soft 11a, long and sustained with kind of a cave rest at the midpoint. That is also at the same wall, and is very good. Fuzzy Undercling is another soft 11, but the boulder problem start is kinda tough. God it's been years since I've been to the Red...

THere is also a classic 9 called Plate Techtonics or something like that... but there will be a conga line, even on a week day.

Oh yea, the trad climbing is just as good as the sport.

Drake Pregnall · · Morehead, KY · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 1,045

Sunnyside at Muir Valley has a few good ones, and they all stay dry in the rain. Even Bruise Brothers has a few on the right side of the crag that are longer than all the rest of the routes, and they are super fun. Have a great time!

tscupp · · Englewood, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,425

Went there for the first time myself a week ago. Here are a few 10's we really enjoyed.

Loompa 10c at the chocolate factory. Pretty powerful and harder than the many other 10's but steep and fun.

Creep Show 10d at phantasia wall. Another powerful 10 with some good variety going from steep to balancy.

Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...
I didn't get a chance to get on the ones already recommended other than air ride equipped which is a great jug hall but these ones were very enjoyable and worth doing if you end up at these crags.

As for food: I recommend the Rockhouse Cafe up the road a few miles past Miguel's. Good food, good beer and super nice people running it.

Craig T · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

If you have time during the week (wouldnt recommend it in a weekend), you can go to The Shire. Easy short warmups (which are noob-raped on weekends), then you climb G-Man (10c) and KSB (10d). G-Man has some slopers and makes you think and desperately search for holds, and KSB is a blank wall except for iron crimpers and slots. Once you've bagged those, head a little further into the valley and get on Amarillo Sunset (11b). Awesomely juggy with nice exposure.

DexterRutecki · · Cincinnati, Ohio · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0
tscupp wrote:Boltergeist 10b at Hideout in Muir Valley. Chill slab climbing that goes on forever...
Meh boltergeist isnt that great, especially because everybody and their brother thinks its the best route in the Red and is perpetually packed. I think thrillbillies which is also 10b slab is a MUCH better route, more continuous, better moves, and not gang banged by gumbies all day!

Other good tens check out the gallery wall, bruise brothers, great wall, hideout, techtonic, the shire, the playground etc etc... Just look through the book, they are everywhere!
DexterRutecki · · Cincinnati, Ohio · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0
Zane Dordai wrote:Breakfast burrito has a perfect crimping section to a huge rest and then a perfect exposed boulder problem.
Haha crimps on Breakfast Burrito before the sit down rest? I think you were climbing it wrong, that whole route is jugs. I don't think I used any crimps on that route...
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290

Thanks a lot to everyone for the great beta. Really psyched to put it to good use in a few days!
Cheers,
David

ErikaE · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 5

Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day.

I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290
Erika-at-Olin wrote:Sounds like you climb harder than I do, but I loved to Defy the Laws of Tradition, 5.10a. It's at Left Flank, which is relatively close to Military Wall, where Fuzzy Undercling is. It took us about 20 minutes to walk to one from the other, so it would be easy to do both in the same day. I also quite enjoyed the three climbs on the Tectonic wall, Gettin' Lucky, which was previously mentioned, Plate Tectonics, and a 10c that's also on the same wall.
Hi Erika,
Nope I don't think you climb harder than I do: I'm just hoping that at the Red, courtesy of those nice new bolts, I can climb harder than I do! Thanks for the recommendations!
SteveBSU · · Muncie, IN · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.

DexterRutecki · · Cincinnati, Ohio · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0
SteveBSU wrote:For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.
Wow worst recommendations ever. Did you read the guys post? He is looking for sport routes around 5.10

Bob Marley, Purgatory, fortress, tower rock and pebble beach would all be poor suggestions for him.
Cocanower · · The High Country · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 55

machete on sunnyside in muir

S. Neoh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Just as others have said, at Drive-by - Breakfast Burrito, Fire & Brimstone, Whipstockig. Also the 5.10's at Great Wall in Muir, then on the other side of the trail, Air Ride Equipped and Bathtub Mary.
Also at Muir, the 5.11a on the right side of the Bib Wall (sorry, the name escapes me for the moment).

Check out Rock House; slightly pricier compared to Miguel's but RH has beer on tap.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290
SteveBSU wrote:For PMRP you will want a high clearance vehicle if you are driving farther then the mother load parking lot. if in the area a great trad line is Cheaper then a movie. Its at chica Bonita wall. Bob Marley is full of overhung jug hauls. Purgatory is one of the classic hard walls filled with 5.11-14c. even if you don't climb that hard it is worth going back to look at the crag if you are near. Fortress wall, Tower Rock, and Pebble beach all have great trad.
The road out to the Gallery parking lot was passable by a standard-clearance car (minivan, actually!) today. Wouldn't have wanted to try it in the rain without 4wd, though, and the road wouldn't have had to get much worse before it would have caused us clearance problems also.
mustardtiger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 20

Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at.

climbamt Dunn · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 35

If Military is still open.... This is a fun route Possum Lips

mountainproject.com/v/possu…

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 290
mustardtiger wrote:Wasn't Military closed, im not posotive on this so if it is open I'm sorry for the mix up. If your in Muir be sure to donate or else you may have another Roadside that is just something nice to look at.
Haven't tried Military so far, but second the Muir donation comment...that's really an amazing thing that the Weber's have done for the climbing community. So many great routes in such a beautiful setting! Not a lot of folks out there that are putting their private playground out there for the general public to use. We had the pleasure of meeting Rick today (he was building a picnic table for you). Really nice person, no great surprise given the total awesomeness that he and his wife have created in Muir Valley. And yes, I did donate!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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