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Mentally Preparing for RX routes


Shane Zentner · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 205

All things considered, you'll figure it out when you get to the bottom of the climb. It will either feel right or it won't. Don't force it and don't push it too far. However, as Mic said, sometimes you have to 'throw the switch' and go for it. You'll know it when it happens.

I hate giving this advice because it's a personal decision and yours alone. It's also a dangerous question that will invoke a wide range of comments.

Good luck

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,280
Stiles wrote:Nobody has yet mentioned The Rock Warriors Way by Arno Ilgner. That book is all about psychologic strength. I read it and then soloed Petit no problem. Gettin laid all the time now too
MOno did... way back at the beginning of the thread.

But yea, OP, it's a good read.
fat cow · · St. Paul, MN · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10
Knight of a Woeful Figure wrote:nothin but practice, gotta start with windmills before you slay giants.
be don quixote
Hank Caylor · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 615
Greg D wrote: Climbers that do R/X in eldo are badass. Climbers that do R/X without tr rehearsal or super badass. Climbers that tr a route, then lead it are in a lower class, in my book. Flame now if you like. Just my opinion.
Yay, Greg D thinks I'm badass...

I'm with most everything John L is saying.
Mic Fairchild · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 360

Belayer story: The first time I led Jules Verne, I had Candelaria holding the rope (like money in the bank). I climbed up the runout, got shaky, then climbed back to the rest. He yelled up "you were already past the crux!" As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay. I was glad to pay it forward.

Hank Caylor · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 615
Mic Fairchild wrote:Belayer story:As I recall, when Caylor wanted to lead JV, he called me to belay.
I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
Hank Caylor wrote: I admit it. Was having you belay me considered a form of aid?!
Is that how you guys do it? I got up JV with maybe 2 pitches of gear climbing in the last 12 months. My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269
devkrev wrote: um...I might be wrong, but it was my assumption that the gear rating of a climb is the gear rating for the section that which the difficulty rating of the climb is rated.
It depends on the area. In New England, usually gear ratings go with the hardest moves, but I noticed some areas around West would have R/X ratings for say 5.9 moves on a 5.10 climb. The guides usually explain that or MP does.

I agree with what JohnL said - RPs, Ballnutz and small aliens give me some extra courage. A lot of times "R/X" mean that gear is "creative".
Hank Caylor · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2003 · Points: 615
shuminW wrote: My secret weapon was a buddy wanting to photograph the route. That surely added 100 sack points.
That's the true secret revealed right there. Lucky belayers was all old-school. Stick a camera/video crew next to the route, boom.
Mic Fairchild · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2003 · Points: 360
Hank Caylor wrote: a form of aid?!
Nah buddy, more like a form of flattery. Just saying that a good belayer can give you some extra psych and mental security.
Dana Bartlett · · CO · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890
johnL wrote:I guess I am breaking rule #1 again. So much of this advice is so fucking dangerous. It's not wrong. In fact, most of it is spot on. It's just so ridiculous that an internet thread is how homeboy wants to learn to climb R or X routes. It's absurd. Should you learn to downclimb? Well, should a runner know how to tie his shoes? Etc etc. This really goes back to the trite answers on how to bolt threads. Different question same answers. If you have to ask, you aren't ready.
John is right, and he is succinctly summarizes - albeit a bit indirectly - all you need to know. If you have to ask, you are nowhere close to where you need to be.

You have to really want to climb that route.
James Crump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

Train, mentally practice the moves visualizing sending it. Get laid lots, party your brains out. Drink bunches of margs... Wake up the next day. Hurl your guts out on the approach. Imbibe some courage (guide food). Look up and realize it ain't too bad or big. Start sending and when you get scared think about sex.

Worked for me tons of times...

Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,435

So sayeth The James.

James Crump · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 200

I always felt that if you were going to hang it out a little, you should at least be having a good time! If you want to walk on the wild side you should be a little wild!

Just saying...

Gravitron FA, Enchanted Rock

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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