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Is falling on slings/daisy chains safe?

Original Post
Michael Slater · · Denver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

This past winter I started buying my first pieces for a sport rack. I bought a lot of stuff from Bent Gate in Golden since I get a discount through my gym membership and know they have a ton of expert advice. When picking out some slings/daisy chains, the guy helping me mentioned that you CAN NOT fall on either but rather they are used for only statically holding weight, like cleaning gear at the top bolts and setting up a TR. I was surprised to hear this cause my friends and I (along with a lot of other climbers I've seen) use slings to extend draws and even anchor to features when trad climbing. Maybe I misunderstood and I would never use my daisy chain as a extender to an anchor I may fall on.

So, can I get some clarification on this? Thanks MP commumity!

PS...the slings I'm referring to are actually "10 mm Black Diamond Dynex™ Runners"

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20

don't fall on them alone. they will break.

as soon as the rope is involved, you can definitely fall on them. ropes are very stretchy.

Michael Slater · · Denver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0

Ah ha, that sounds familiar. I believe that what the guy at the shop said was don't anchor in, somehow get above and then fall. Thanks for the reply, it sparked my memory...

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Here, watch this video about daisy chains, then read the accompanying article (link to the article is under the video):

vimeo.com/14679471

blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

S Denny · · Aspen, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 20
Michael Slater wrote:don't anchor in, somehow get above and then fall.
exactly. i'm sure this thread will continue with all sorts of rants... glad to help
Jake Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,659

Yep, S Denny is right. Spectra/dyneema is fine as long as they're used in conjunction with a dynamic rope. What the guy that was helping you was referring to is when you're at an anchor- cleaning/belaying. If you're anchored in with say... 2 slings, or a PAS, it's important to keep a static load on it so you don't leave slack and then put dynamic forces on it. I'm not positive, but I think the kn ratings on those slings are from static pull tests, not dynamic drop tests- I'm sure someone will chime in with the real answer if I'm wrong. Either way, it's nothing to get freaked out about, just be mindful and cautious and pay attention to detail.

M LaViolette Jr · · The Past · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 436

Just use the rope!

csproul · · Apex, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
M LaViolette Jr. wrote:Just use the rope!
How do you "just use the rope" when cleaning the draws off of the anchor bolts of a (sport) route. How do you "just use the rope" when rappelling and need to anchor into the next rap station, thread the rope, and then pull the rope from the last rap? I'm sure there is a way to do it, but at some point you are going to need to unweight the rope and untie/thread/pull the rope...which makes it much more difficult to "just use the rope". If we're talking about anchoring in at belays, then sure, "just use the rope".
Rob Selter · · running springs Ca · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 125

Wow! is that last guy having a bad day or something?

Dronocian · · Monf***ingtana · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,250
Keenan Waeschle wrote:JUST STOP ASKING THIS QUESTION. WHAT THE FUCK IS WITH YOU PEOPLE?
Struck a nerve?
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

haha am I the only one who remembers around a month ago when there were 4 "is my PAS safe?" threads on the front page?

DennisT · · Fairbanks · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 5

Better to ask the question, than to learn the hard way..
But there is a search function.. Just saying.

Jake Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,659
Keenan Waeschle wrote:haha am I the only one who remembers around a month ago when there were 4 "is my PAS safe?" threads on the front page?
LOL. Nope. Idk why I still answer the question. There are very clear instructions for specific use of every single piece of climbing gear on the little pamphlet that comes with each and every piece- including daisy chains, slings, and PASs. I can understand why you would be frustrated.
Michael Slater · · Denver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0
Keenan Waeschle wrote:haha am I the only one who remembers around a month ago when there were 4 "is my PAS safe?" threads on the front page?
Hey dude, just cause you know everything about being safe while on the crag, doesn't mean everyone else does. If you don't want to read a post, no one is forcing you to click on it, let alone reply to it. I do know there is a search feature, guess it slipped my mind. Would you rather see a repeat question or a post about someone who got hurt or died? Get the stick out of your ass dude. I'm not tring to pick a fight here cause that is simply stupid, but rather sticking up for those of us who are learning and seeking advice from those more expierenced.

For the rest of you, thank you very much for your helpful insight. I greatly appreciate it! I fully understand the safe use of slings/chains and what the salesman was describing as their potential dangers.
G McG · · Victoria, BC · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
Keenan Waeschle wrote:haha am I the only one who remembers around a month ago when there were 4 "is my PAS safe?" threads on the front page?
Off topic:

Keenan, when you were in Squamish last summer and did Butt Face, did you meet up with you 2 others who just finished at the top of that route and continue to do a route on Raven's Castle with them?
Jake Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,659

Easy man. Both of you have points. Look at Dennis's post. He said it best. Keenan wasn't trying to be a dick, or maybe he was haha. But in all seriousness, for future reference, the search engine on this site is pretty badass, and you'd be surprised what you can find without ever having to start a thread. And if you can't find it, people are always happy to answer a genuine question. The reason he reacted that way is because recently that topic has been beat to death. I'm glad you got the answers you're looking for and it's always better to ask, even if you get derided for it. Doesn't anyone smoke weed anymore?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,503

More HERE:

Personal Anchorzzzzzah!!!!!!!

It is funny seeing these so frequently, but it's all good. Just like the tie a knot in the rope threads, some people didn't get the memo. I can get you a copy of that in case you didn't get one. Annnnnd, I'm going to need you to come in this Saturday, m'kay? Goood.

J Q · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 50
Michael Slater wrote:This past winter I started buying my first pieces for a sport rack. "
A daisy chain is not part of a sport rack. Nothing says "your gonna die" more than roping up for a sport climb with a daisy chain on.

And if you are not going to use it for sport climbing, why preface your post with the above comment.

Michael Slater wrote: Get the stick out of your ass dude. I'm not tring to pick a fight here cause that is simply stupid, but rather sticking up for those of us who are learning and seeking advice from those more expierenced. .
Since you are new, I will explain it to you. You need to ask questions, sure, but the information you get will not be relayed to you like you are in the first grade at a private school, so maybe you should get over it and just appreciate the responses. They are a good way to judge how ridiculous your question is. An inability to laugh at ones self is a sure sign that someone lacks humility, and that, is more dangerous than falling on a daisy chain. In time, you will understand.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200
G McG wrote: Off topic: Keenan, when you were in Squamish last summer and did Butt Face, did you meet up with you 2 others who just finished at the top of that route and continue to do a route on Raven's Castle with them?
I did climb the butt face last summer, and my memory is a little foggy.

it was around august 22 or so, I think we drove back to olympia right after topping out. yeah, ran into some hikers on the summit and then hoofed it back across the border. No you did not meet me. Had fun on that route though, took a buddy up it because I'd been pestering him all year that he had to climb the chief.

and yeah I wasn't actually hating on you, original poster man. Just pointing out the fact that this exact same thread has happened at least 6 times previously. No need to get so defensive.
€ $t0& 960 €® · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 55

No

Crag Dweller · · New York, NY · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125

To the OP, slings and daisy chains are two different things.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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