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Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend Public Event


Original Post
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635

Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend
Public Event · Organized by Bob D'Antonio

Saturday, May 12, 2012
9:00am until 7:00pm
Penitente Canyon, San Luis Valley, Colorado
Penitente Canyon Anchor Replacement & Trail Repair Weekend. This is for all climbers, hikers or anyone who loves the Canyon and the work that volunteers and the BLM have done in the past. Show up and then get to work. Beer, Food, Bolts, Anchors, Tools and good vibes will be provided...Come and show some love to this very special canyon.

facebook.com/events/3129748…

Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635

I'm making a list of the Anchors and Bolts most in need of updating. Bob is not against modernizing routes so please drop us a note here or email me any suggestions to help us prioritize.

rob bauer · · Golden, CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 3,380

Is there much trail work to do? The area is quite flat and I just wouldn't have guessed there was much of that to do. To be fair, it's been years since I was there, but I'm just curious, as I may have sometime about then and don't want to stand around when it comes to "trail work." (I have nothing to contribute on anchors.) Thanks.

AndyMac · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 606

Mr Wind needs new cold shuts for sure! Sheer Strength's 2nd bolt will pull out more than I like to see, Shady Lady has the same issue. Probably last priority but BBC?, or whatever route that is through the picnic structure, is supposedly missing the anchor bolts (per MP). We've still got 3 months of longer days in there so I'll remember any others when I come across them. See you all in May!

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,244

It'd be great to fix the chain anchor set up on bullet the blue sky, tanks for the huecos and break down dead ahead. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link... that is very warn out. Bummed I'm going to miss the event.

Just a thought, but what about painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?

Brother Numsie · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

I hope the A.R.I is donating SS Fixe anchor set-ups.

Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
Mike Lane wrote:I hope the A.R.I is donating SS Fixe anchor set-ups.
It is in the works, that is our intention.
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
rob bauer wrote:Is there much trail work to do? The area is quite flat and I just wouldn't have guessed there was much of that to do. To be fair, it's been years since I was there...
Lots of work has been added to establish quality hiking/mountain biking/horse trails circling the area. This has been a great addition to The multisport visitor and the community. Plenty to help with here and quite impressive.
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
AndyMac wrote:Mr Wind needs new cold shuts for sure! Sheer Strength's 2nd bolt will pull out more than I like to see, Shady Lady has the same issue. Probably last priority but BBC?, or whatever route that is through the picnic structure, is supposedly missing the anchor bolts (per MP). We've still got 3 months of longer days in there so I'll remember any others when I come across them. See you all in May!
It's on the list...keep em coming.
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
Monty wrote:It'd be great to fix the chain anchor set up on bullet the blue sky, tanks for the huecos and break down dead ahead. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link... that is very warn out. Bummed I'm going to miss the event. Just a thought, but what about painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?
A priority, especially since I'd like to hang on that line and work the moves as well as upgrade it.
Thanks for the love on this place.
Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,269
"Bob is not against modernizing routes" aka RETROBOLTING?
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635

Upgrade list suggested by comments on MP. Volunteers would prefer to concentrate on the classics with Modernized anchors a priority. If you know of some, please comment.
Huecos Rancheros Anchor upgrade
Mr Wind Anchor upgrade
Sheer Strength 2nd bolt pulling out
Shady Lady Loose bolt
Bullet the Blue Sky and Tanks for the Huecos Fix the chain anchor set up. The current configuration makes you lower off of one link that is very warn out. 
Consider painting the putty that fills in the chipped holds on bullet to match the rock?
Tanks for the Huecos: After gaining the ledge, you are risking ground fall if you blow it climbing to the next bolt on an easy runout after that is unnecessary.
How The West Was Won Some one stole one of the chains off this route.
High first bolt, good black Powercam placement in a left-hand hueco from an easy low stance. That should CYA to nearly the first bolt. (but Camalots are too wide for those pockets).
Concupiscent Curds Anchor worn
Captain America: The existing anchors consist of three bolts. The two on the left were rap anchors and the one on the right had a clip hanger on it. The anchor in the middle had a beefy chain hanging from it. One of the bolts was loose and could use tightening. Further, below the fixed anchors were two empty bolt holes and a third bolt that was chopped and left in the hole. Perhaps those bolt holes and/or the chopped bolt made up the original anchor.
Whipping Post 5.11a  ? Loose Cold Shuts Anchors
No Regret 5.11c ? Loose Cold Shuts Anchors
Los Hermanos De La Weenie Way: A bolt after the traverse halfway exposed. R anchor bolt and coldshut need to be updated on Los Hermanos.The bolt could pull with a strong wind. Are the SMC hangers still legit?
Forbidden Fruit The last link on the left chain is cracked through.
Hand Jam Crack This line skips half of the vegetated crack anyways, following the lichen corner up. There is a clean, beautiful wide crack a little further on that is not in the book but looks like it has potential.
French Lesson Crack brushy, poorly bolted.!
Que pasa Nice moves, but bad rock. Many of the edges up high are crumbly. The rock around the third bolt is also blowing out.
Hareless 5.11a   Dirty, bush, no anchor
To Err Is Human 5.11d no anchor
BBC Stick clip the first bolt, and probably the second too, It's a tough clip from sketch rock. Some one stole the anchor bolts off the top
Iron Cross could use an update.

Inner Canyon
No Sweat, No Vapor 5.12a     Someone stole the anchor hangers off this one.
Sheer Lunacy 5.11 PG13  Route needs anchors relocated closer to edge. They are so far to the left it's best to belay the second from the top, otherwise cleaning the route is a PITA.

Gary N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 540

If one has never bolted, but wanted to get introduced to it, would this be a good opportunity? I'd be interested in helping out and getting a little knowledge under my belt as well.

PTZ · · Chicago/Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 500

Thank you for your efforts. Penitente is a truly awesome canyon.

Brother Numsie · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Gary N wrote:If one has never bolted, but wanted to get introduced to it, would this be a good opportunity? I'd be interested in helping out and getting a little knowledge under my belt as well.
Yes, it would be a great opportunity. Several old Masters will be there. In fact, the more I think about it, there may never be a gathering like this again.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I'm in. I have placed a fair number of bolts and replaced quite a few as well.
I can get beer donated from SLV Brewing in Alamosa as well. Will the after party be in the Canyon or at the store ????

Ed L · · Slowida · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 80

R anchor bolt and coldshut need to be updated on Los Hermanos.The bolt could pull with a strong wind. Are the SMC hangers still legit? Iron Cross could use an update.

Brother Numsie · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Not to undermine the A.R.I., but I think it would be a good idea to set up an account directly w/ Fixe that folks could donate to for this. Someone would have to be the Central Scrutinizer on the package, and then if it ends up with way more hangers, anchor sets and bolts than needed give the rest to the A.R.I. Prolly need to set up a keg fund too.

Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
Ed L wrote:Are the SMC hangers still legit? .
The stainless steel ones with the vertical SMC stamp are bomber hangers, their integrity will depend on the bolt used. I have never seen one of those I wouldn't trust unless they had a bad bolt. The plated version (horizontal SMC) usually have rusted and become brittle. This can accelerate with different rock types and weather. I have seen these literally crumble like a potato chip when I went to pull them. I have not seen the plated hangers on the routes I have climbed at PC. If you know of some, they should be upgraded.

Supertopo forum
Mike Howard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 3,635
Mike Lane wrote:... set up an account directly w/ Fixe that folks could donate to for this... Prolly need to set up a keg fund too.
We are on it. Bob has been talking to Kevin about this already. Keg fund is just as crucial, looks like we'll need a social coordinator. The suggestions and effort so far are great and much appreciated, such as:

john strand wrote:I'm in. I can get beer donated from SLV Brewing in Alamosa as well. Will the after party be in the Canyon or at the store ????
Glenn Schuler · · Monument, Co. · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,320

Are my home made red angle iron hangers still on my route Bucket Slave? If so, those would be contenders for replacement.
Not sure if I can make it down that weekend but I will definitely try. I'll try and talk that old Kevin M. guy into coming with also. Could bring my drill & help out with some work.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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