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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here


David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
that guy named seb wrote: this definitely qualifies



I love Ondra's mental strength. When he falls, he yells, "It's f-ing hundred million degrees!" But in the commentary later, he says, "I think even if I had better conditions I would still definitely fall off in those [...] few last moves right at the anchor of that pitch."

It's comforting to see that the mental aspects of this sport still apply to the strongest climbers. It's easy to blame outside stuff (like conditions) for our failures, but in the end those are just part of the challenge we're trying to surmount, and surmounting that challenge is the entire point. So even if our momentary emotion is to blame the challenges, we have to come back, admit we didn't have what it took to surmount the challenges, and work to get stronger.
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 210
knowbuddy Buddy wrote: I love the tc pro/solution shoe combo!

I'd love to know the exact reasoning, jamming with his tc Pro and mostly smearing with his solutions is my guess I guess its a flairing jamming lay back. 

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450
Jaren Watson wrote:


Another one from PSP, perhaps the most badass climber at present.

LOL! Based on what? 

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
caughtinside wrote:

LOL! Based on what? 

Based on the only possible criterion in this case—my opinion.

stolo · · Shelby, NC · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 220
that guy named seb wrote: this definitely qualifies



I was thinking "hmm this is different than most Ondra videos... I haven't heard any screaming yet. Oh, nvm there we go!" The headwall crack looked so flaring in spots. 


At 2:30, was his belayer just using the rope grab to keep some easily feeding slack readily available? 
James Donigan · · Brooklyn · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 15
stolo wrote:

I was thinking "hmm this is different than most Ondra videos... I haven't heard any screaming yet. Oh, nvm there we go!" The headwall crack looked so flaring in spots. 


At 2:30, was his belayer just using the rope grab to keep some easily feeding slack readily available? 

I was curious about that too. I didn't know if he was hauling a small bag up or what but the available slack thing makes sense. 

I always enjoy Nico's films and really cool he was a part of this. Also (understandably) he got SLAMMED into the belay catching that first whipper!!

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 611

Holy mole Ondra is not at all afraid to run the rope out and log serious air over gear.

I find that my tolerance for runouts drops by about 75% when I'm up high on El Cap. 

Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39
Sirius wrote: Holy mole Ondra is not at all afraid to run the rope out and log serious air over gear.

I find that my tolerance for runouts increases by about 75% when I'm up on El Cap high. 

Here, that should fix it. 

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 611
I find that my tolerance for runouts increases by about 75% when I'm up on El Cap high.
Wish that were true for me. When I leave a belay in an exposed position on El Cap I have to will myself into not freaking out even on the easy stuff, and then constantly check myself against trying to keep a running toprope. Bomber cam placements that I'd usually not think twice about begin to look suspect. Solid jams feel dodgy, good edges seem like they could spit my feet right off. Free head goes to shit, in short. No chance of running the rope or freeing near my normal limits, ime.

What's your secret?

The belay Ondra leaves there is triply terrifying to me: no stance/hanging belay, just over the lip of the Salathé roof as exposed as it comes, with insecure climbing straight off the belay. Yeeesh.
Kees van der Heiden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 40


The famous couple Zangerl/Larcher at it again. Not a pure trad climb, but surely not a sport climb either. Quite a few bolts in the harder pitches (quite common on limestone which is hard to protect traditionally). Here is the topo, so you can see how it is protected (scroll through the pictures)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/odyssee-the-hardest-route-on-the-eiger-north-face-by-roger-schaeli-robert-jasper-and-simon-gietl/32583?s=1​​​
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 431


Distinctly non-pro climbers, first time in Zion.
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250

Too much talking not enough climbing.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 160

That was REALLY boring... 

M Jarmland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

I liked it. Especially when he was pulling up rope with his toes, that was awesome! =)

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,402
Kees van der Heiden wrote:


The famous couple Zangerl/Larcher at it again. Not a pure trad climb, but surely not a sport climb either. Quite a few bolts in the harder pitches (quite common on limestone which is hard to protect traditionally). Here is the topo, so you can see how it is protected (scroll through the pictures)

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/odyssee-the-hardest-route-on-the-eiger-north-face-by-roger-schaeli-robert-jasper-and-simon-gietl/32583?s=1

If Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcer make a video, ipso facto, it's awesome.

Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205

Mixed, but more rock pro than ice screws.. seems fitting for the season.


Paul L · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 205


greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 167
https://vimeo.com/184963897

Loud music warning.  A stunning crack I haven't seen before!
Nate Mylander · · Rock Hill, SC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 56
Abandoned User · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 5,245

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