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Post Awesome Trad Movies Here


Scottmx426 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
Adam Block wrote:

More of these style movies please!

Here’s another good one adam. 


https://youtu.be/GVKXBlKt4Ks

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210
bkozak wrote:

Oh my God, this one by that same guy makes his other video look like Sonnie Trotter on the Cobra Crack.  Right off the bat, can't place a cam in a splitter hand crack, backclips the piece he places, and then gets pissed at his belayer when he tells him to fix the backclip.  This guy is a superstar!  If that isn't enough, check out the anchor at 21 minutes in.  Absolutely horrifying.

//youtu.be/Bac143THHPY

You made it through 20 minutes of that?!  Dear lord, what the hell was he doing?

paul.adams.3 · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 45
bkozak wrote:

Oh my God, this one by that same guy makes his other video look like Sonnie Trotter on the Cobra Crack.  Right off the bat, can't place a cam in a splitter hand crack, backclips the piece he places, and then gets pissed at his belayer when he tells him to fix the backclip.  This guy is a superstar!  If that isn't enough, check out the anchor at 21 minutes in.  Absolutely horrifying.

//youtu.be/Bac143THHPY

At first I thought, "3 decent looking pieces, how bad can the anchor be?"  Boy, did he prove me wrong...yikes.  Didn't he yell that he was equalizing them??

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250

That Phantom Spires video was just painful to watch. The footwork, the failure to use the crack, the gear fumbling. The way he practically hyperventilates at stances while he tries to find pieces to fit in the textbook crack. So many times he takes out a perfectly appropriate piece for the crack next to him, tries to stick it in some inexplicably silly spot, and then starts cursing.... such desperation on a 5.7!

Looks like a beautiful climb.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
paul.adams.3 wrote:

At first I thought, "3 decent looking pieces, how bad can the anchor be?"  Boy, did he prove me wrong...yikes.  Didn't he yell that he was equalizing them??

I mean it's sort of equalized on the left and right pieces? I think he's got the SE in SERENE.

Watching him clip and unclip from the crossloaded and at one point locked-open carabiner on his belay loop was a rollercoaster of emotions.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,734

I hate to be yet another posting without actually putting up a video, but there should be a caveat for no Go Pro and no shitshows (which is what a lot of GoPro vids are).  Agreed that these two vids were painful to watch.  I couldn't finish them, for multiple reasons.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
Jake Jones wrote:

I hate to be yet another posting without actually putting up a video, but there should be a caveat for no Go Pro and no shitshows (which is what a lot of GoPro vids are).  Agreed that these two vids were painful to watch.  I couldn't finish them, for multiple reasons.

Agreed, I started another thread for videos like the GoPro ones above.

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70
Benj84 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 425
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Pretty sweet video, but I don’t get his ethics.  Bolting a crack on solid rock is awful, but it’s not like you HAVE to clip the bolts...

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
Ted Pinson wrote:

Pretty sweet video, but I don’t get his ethics.  Bolting a crack on solid rock is awful, but it’s not like you HAVE to clip the bolts...

My thinking on this sort of thing is that removing bolts from cracks discourages people from bolting cracks, because they know their work will be removed, costing them time and money for nothing. It's not so much about the climber as it is about the bolter. If you think bolting a crack on solid rock is awful, then it makes sense to remove bolts from cracks to disincentivize future awfulness.

That said, I'm not 100% in agreement that bolting cracks is always awful. In an area with lots of trad, it would be, but if an area is very sport-centric, I think it's okay. Bolting a crack in a sport area isn't damaging pristine nature--there are already bolts everywhere--it's just making a crack climb accessible to sport climbers.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 160

**In b4 10 pages of ethical crack-bolting internet war.**

Bobby Mustard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,224


Kees van der Heiden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 40

I came along the video from James Pearson climbing several routes, among them Muy Caliente in Pembroke which he did it in two tries. Then I looked for the first ascent video which is a very nice video too. I don't know if these have been featured here before? But I always love seeing the Brits on their home rock.








: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=39&v=KABdGxanQLc



David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 137
Eli wrote:

Wow, Soft Grit might appeal to my aesthetics more than any line I've ever seen. Just beautiful.

Bobby Mustard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,224
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250

Love that Bell video.

Bobby Mustard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,224


Bobby Mustard · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,224


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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