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Stickclipping a redpoint attempt


Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950
thomas ellis wrote:but most accidents occur while rapping. Look at Biggy and Tupac...
I laughed so hard that my coffee just came out my nose!
Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,475
thomas ellis wrote:but most accidents occur while rapping. Look at Biggy and Tupac...
I'm stealing this and using it when I feel confident that you won't see it.
Dom · · New Brunswick Canada · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,110
thomas ellis wrote:ps: who gives a shit. stick clip if you want. answer to no one but yourself.
Best line of the thread so far.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,088
Andrew Haag wrote: Yes it's very hard to be a hero! You should know sending all them 5.14d's. What if the crux is before the first bolt? Is that the only climb around? You guys are saying that you intentionally look for chosspile routes with hard cruxes before the first bolt. Ya'll should come climbing with me, there are plenty of great hard routes with the crux well into the climb and the only choss around is on the ground. Go ahead, give me another lame ass 1 in a million excuse.
i have no choice. i've climbed all the good ones and i don't repeat routes.
Geir · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,630
Daryl Allan wrote:You will get the gamut of opinions on this(and links to previous runs down this path) but it really comes down to what you can sleep with at night.
+1
Darren Mabe · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,565
slim wrote:and, i gotta say i disagree with darren. that slim guy is completely unreasonable.
lets just agree to disagree
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,449
johnL wrote: The ones who have issues with stick clips and prehung draws are the average climbers who have some romantic notion (with their right hand) of how tough climbing is, all of it. They're usually relatively isolated, don't travel often, and have been serious less than 5 years.
That's funny.

Was climbing a bunch of years ago at Rattlesnake Point in Ontario, and, had just led a necky route with no good gear a ways off the deck, save, a fixed pin well off the ground.

Finished the route, lowered, my partner followed it and cleaned it.

Stuck up a conversation with the group next to us and mentioned our route was pretty ok, but, I'd kinda wished I'd have had a stick clip for that fixed pin. The guy sourly responded, "stick clips are for beginners." I check out his set up, and, dryly added, "yeah, kinda like top roping, eh?"

We didn't continue the conversation. Ha ha.

Good times!
Tom Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 950

Has anyone else noticed a trend here?
When the weather is fine and everyone can get out to pull down the posts are congenial, yet, just as soon as the weather makes cragging less than desirable, the shit starts hitting the fan.
This is totally understandable from a psychological standpoint.
I too am suffering from cabin fever, but there is light at the end of her bunghole. Temps nearing fifty degrees this coming weekend!

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,980
Nate Reno · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 70
Ryan Kelly wrote:
Too hot =(
M LaViolette Jr. · · The Past · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 370

Personally I would bring a crash pad to the crag before I used a stick clip. For me a lead needs to be from the ground up. Also I think there needs to be a way to view the whole issue objectively. If you're on a 100' route and you stick clip the first bolt, no biggie. But if the route is only three bolts and you stick clip the first two, then you pretty much just top roped most of the climb and called it a send. The only way to avoid this discrepancy objectively is to say that stick clipping is not a redpoint, period. Why not get a 50' pole and stick clip the last bolt and just lead to the anchor if being safe is what you're really concerned with. Would you call that a redpoint? Another thing I think is kind of weird is, if people are having to use a stick clip to make the route safe and the whole point of sport climbing is to climb as hard as possible safely then why wasn't the route just bolted safely in the first place without having to use a stick clip? In the end though, as others have said, if you're happy with it and you've satisfied your expectations for yourself then it's a redpoint. Yes, I only sport 5.9. Have fun.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Andrew Haag wrote: ... But stick clipping for a red point burn? If your going to beat the climb into submission stick clipping that first bolt doesnt mitigate any danger at that point. If your going for the red point burn that should mean you are ready to see the chains, hopefully. If you cant even make it to the first bolt without falling reapeted times then its time for the TR setup or maybe another route.
I was going to read to the end of this thread before telling someone that they don't know what they're talking about, but, you don't know what you're talking about.

However, while there is no difference in sport climbing between a pinkpoint and a redpoint, you can be damn sure that if someone sends a hard route while hanging the draws, he will damn sure tell you about it for extra radness points.
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Ryan Kelly wrote:
wait, why do you care about the weather? I heard you quit climbing.
Devin Krevetski · · Northfield, VT · Joined May 2008 · Points: 30

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FtuNGI0E1A

um....don't mind me....

scurries away

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,310

Stick-clipping = Lame, but sometimes necessary. Overall it would be coooooler if ya didn't.

camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Andrew Haag wrote: There is alot of places were hanging your own draws isnt possible anymore. Generally speaking caves and steep overhanging rock are all fixed. I cant really complain about that cause I like to clip fixed draws on steep routes. It defenantly makes for ez clean up. However the OP was asking about stick clipping for potentially dangerous fall. I would have to say that every and any fall has the potential for danger. Even with a stick clip. Using a stick clip doesnt lower the danger for a red point attempt. I did however get off subject as the OP question is, "Is it still a red point?" By every defenition I have read so far says: the answer is no. I guess I should have left it at that.
You should have "left it at that" before you ever hit the "submit" button.
JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95
Andrew Haag wrote: Using a stick clip doesnt lower the danger for a red point attempt.
Yes it does. Lets say you fall off of a low crux, before the first bolt. Falling 1 foot and being caught by a rope is much safer than falling 8 feet onto a blocky talus landing.

Andrew Haag wrote: "Is it still a red point?" By every defenition I have read so far says: the answer is no.
Except for the definitions provided by numerous knowledgeable posters that say that stick clipping is an acceptable part of a redpoint.
Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,980
camhead wrote: wait, why do you care about the weather? I heard you quit climbing.
Because if the weather is good then everyone else is out climbing, so I don't have to deal with crowds at Bed, Bath, and Beyond.
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Jon Moen wrote: Yes it does. Lets say you fall off of a low crux, before the first bolt. Falling 1 foot and being caught by a rope is much safer than falling 8 feet onto a blocky talus landing. Except for the definitions provided by numerous knowledgeable posters that say that stick clipping is an acceptable part of a redpoint.
John, you need to really take the advice of Frederick Douglass:

"At a time like this, scorching irony, not convincing argument, is needed."
camhead · · Vandalia, Appalachia · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,240
Ryan Kelly wrote: Because if the weather is good then everyone else is out climbing, so I don't have to deal with crowds at Bed, Bath, and Beyond.
Good stragedy. I've never been able to make it through to the Beyond section.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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