Third flatiron beta

Looking at doing the third on Tuesday. I haven't climbed out here this time of year yet and trying to figure out the best time to get started. It's supposed to be 55 or so. Was thinking of planning to get to the parking lot at 8:15 with a goal of being on the rock by 9.

It's not a big deal, but thought I'd ask the advice of the experts. Would earlier (better chance of summiting before the shade hits, less people in front of us) or later (warmer at the start) be better?

I'm an experienced trad climber who's been mostly away from climbing for a few years, and I'll be taking one strong gym/sport climber without much trad experience, and one who's only been gym climbing a few weeks, tho he started out doing 10s there.

Thanks for any advice!

I just climbed it on Friday, and I think most of the face goes into the shade before 1:00, though the summit was still sunny and nice when we topped out around 1:30 ish. That said climbing half the route in the shade was not bad at all.

I personally would rather be in the shade for a bit than start early when the air and rock is still cold. It depends on how fast you climb too, If you have a 70 m rope you can do it in 4 pitches and it goes really quickly every pitch is around 65-70 meters and there are good belays for all of them. I would aim for being on the rock about 11 but, I know I can finish the climb in about 2 hours keeping me in the sun for most of it.

Since you didn't specify I assume you are planning to do the "Standard Route". But if you have the time and ability I encourage you to try
"East Face Left". You climb the full 1300' face, and you get the extra benefit of going over a short "roof" with a 5.7ish move. I quoted roof, because it is only a roof in comparison with the rest of the slabby face.

The trickiest thing about doing this route is the approach. You basically have to bushwhack through a tangle of branches off the main trail for a couple of hundred yards to find some semblance of a trail to get to the bottom of the rock... and it's easy to accidentally end-up high on the right/north side (basically at the bench, which is the start of the standard route).

Since you are bringing a newish climber I recommend that you follow your original plan - regardless of whether you decide to do the standard route or the longer one. It sounds like you may be going to do some teaching of multi-pitch climbing techniques, so you don't want to feel rushed. Starting early will let you both feel comfortable to take your time and enjoy the climb and the view and the sun. It looks like you'll have a perfect day.

Since it is expected to be clear you could probably even start earlier since the sun will hit the rock almost immediately at sun-rise (7am). I'd personally aim for being at the start by 8am. Last time I did this we got off the rock early and had time to zip up boulder canyon and do some sport.

It is unclear whether you've done the 3rd before. If you bring two 60M ropes then you can get off in one short and one long rappel (with one rope you have to do 3 raps). And if you are lucky someone else will be on the top when you are rapping off. If so, and they are amenable, then you can get off in one 57M rappel. You put the ropes through the chains and throw the ropes off the back (not down the obvious rap line). This causes the ropes to run ~3' across the top of the rock, so there is too much rope drag to be able to pull the ropes from the bottom; but if you work it out with someone on top, they can untie your ropes and drop them down to you. If you want to do that be sure to evaluate the capability/confidence of your partner, since it makes for an exhilarating start to the rap rather than a more gentle one that the normal rap line allows. If in doubt, just do the normal rap which is still enjoyable.

FYI you can get off the 3rd in 2 raps with a single 60m. Combine the first two raps off the summit, then follow the directions on the plaque at the single eye bolt and rap one last time from good bolts 10 feet climbers left. Make sure you read the sign and rap to the west, not the south which is much further and requires 2 ropes.

Thanks for the rap info! We will have two ropes, so that's good to know.

I've not done the third before. Very excited for it!