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Mt. Lemmon Sandbags and Sandbags that should have an R or X.


jbak . · · tucson,az · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,990
Jimbo wrote: (Of course I've never done a route that wasn't perfect in every way so the idea of someone wanting to change it is strictly for illustrative purposes.)
Haha. Perfect. I literally LOLed. Good speech.
1Eric Rhicard · · Tucson · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 8,346
Jimbo wrote:Eric, sounds like you've talked with Caverdude and ego is involved here.....(Of course I've never done a route that wasn't perfect in every way so the idea of someone wanting to change it is strictly for illustrative purposes.).....Now, do any of us who do new routes have a moral or ethical responsibility to make them safe? No, but if you've already drilled 10 holes on a rock face what's the big deal about one more to keep people off the deck. Nuff said on this subject. Cheers.
No I never talked with Caverdude but I remember him. There may be some ego there which is rare is this game we play.

Jimbo has never made a mistake while putting up new routes. According to him I am the one who makes the mistakes!

+1 on the llth hole point.
JMo · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,010

Much respect for Jimbo and EFR, so I have no opinion or dog in this hunt. Just one good climbing experience when I had some cams and was ready to learn. Got on some easier than easy sport route at the hairpin turns. Can't remember the climb but pretty sure it was one of these. placed a metolious mastercam 00 before the first bolt climbed up very easy ground and somehow, impossibly, managed to fall on that tiny cam, with it holding, me stopping couple feet off the deck, and my wife, belaying, looking at me like what the F??!! Me looking at her like no shit this stuff really works!! So thanks caverdude for a great memory, whatever you decide to allow with your FA going forward...

Geir · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 2,630
Jimbo wrote:I also never suggested that any route should ever be altered without the permission of the FAist. (A fully chiseled route being the exception) I'm trying to convince Caverdude that two of his routes would be better if he would let someone add some bolts. If he says no, then they remain as is, period. I attempted to personalise by explaining I would have no problems if someone added, subtracted or moved some bolts on one of my sport routes if the climbing community thought it would make the route better. (Of course I've never done a route that wasn't perfect in every way so the idea of someone wanting to change it is strictly for illustrative purposes.) ... I just don't see how adding a few bolts to what is already sport route is such a big deal if it will keep a few newbies out of the hospital. Now, do any of us who do new routes have a moral or ethical responsibility to make them safe? No, but if you've already drilled 10 holes on a rock face what's the big deal about one more to keep people off the deck. Nuff said on this subject. Cheers.
I see where you are coming from more clearly now. Makes sense to me.

BTW, I loved the humor in this post ... one of the funniest I have read in a very long time!
Mike Dudley · · Vegas · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 155

ohhh i miss the tucson climbing community.....

RyanJohnson · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 341
Christian wrote:"Desire" is not sandbagged (at most could be closer to 10+ than 10? not sure) but should have an R in the next guidebook
I'd second this. It sure isn't a sandbag, but it sure is spicy. Depending on whether a proposed new edition uses 5.Xa-d or 5.X-or+, I'd consider Desire to be either 10c or 10.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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