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2011 Utah Ice Conditions thread


dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

Anybody been through Provo Canyon lately? Anyone know whats in?, or whats building quickly? Anyone seen some good ice somewhere else lately? Thanks for your report on the lake mary area, its starting to look pretty sweet! I'll report back after my trips, but it would be awesome to have a little beta.

And to spread the Beta love

Climbing the Dirtcicle last Sat
Michael Davidson · · Bellevue, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 125

Climbed on the apron this morning. Nothing I would want to put a screw in, but definitely climbable. White Nightmare and the streak to its left looked surprisingly good, but again, I wouldn't lead it right now.

With the low temps we are going to have for the next week I think the stuff with flowing water is going to freeze quickly. . . which is good and bad.

Eric Bonin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 40

Just want to watch this thread. in the hopes of ice climbing this year. So if anyone wants to take a noob out for a day of climbing let me know

jtwalter · · Orem, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 805

Ice in Provo Canyon is reforming after the cold temps last night. Looks like it'll be a busy day on the apron tomorrow.

Alec LaLonde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 460

Went to Joes yesterday, conditions seemed a little worse than this past weekend:

Turned around due to snow on the way to Mary's Lake, but is probably passable for 4WD + snow tires. About 6-8 inches on the road, but the climbs were looking pretty good from afar.

Led p1 CCC, a bit thin but fun. p2 is nonexistent

Hiked up the Highway to Heaven (difficult this early in the season as there's not enough ice to go right up the drainage) and checked out Deadbolt. Was looking stout, and a bit wet for leading, so we went up the Masterlock drainage to set up a TR and were pleasantly surprised by it.

Nathaniel Holt · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 130

Here is the apron on Nov 29th. Sorry for the late post. There were 2 lines that were climbable on top rope. Its gotten colder the last 2 days so I assume that there has been some good formation since then :-) Lets hope it continues to cool off!

Nov 29th 2011 the apron on stairway

The apron on stairway Nov 29th 2011
the apron on stairway Nov 29th
bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,015

Climbed to the top of the bulge on the GWI today. No ice getting to that belay. Had to climb above 10' and then back down to the belay. You could go all the way if you exit out right. Pretty thin still.

Rob Man · · SLC UT · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 40

Went and climbed on the Apron today 12/3/11 it is a little better than the previous posted pictures, fun but still a wee thin for good screws.

Bridalveil rt. and white nightmare are starting to look promising :}

Michael Davidson · · Bellevue, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 125
Mark Regier · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 35

Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.

Miller's thriller lower pitches 12/4/11

Miller's thriller upper pitches 12/4/11
bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,015

Those photos look like Miller's Thriller. Cool early season photos.

Michael Davidson · · Bellevue, WA · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 125
Mark Regier wrote:Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.
Sweeeeeeet. Did you get a look at miller's thriller?
Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700
Mark Regier wrote:Had the Fang all to myself today. I don't have any friends, so I was soloing. Stopped when it got steep and rapped from anchors on LHS(I think this is the top of p.2). Lots of water flowing, but climbable.
These pictures are of Millers. Have any of the Fang the next one to the east up canyon.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,194

Fang tube was pukin' hard and no where near formed. The approach pitches looked similar to the stuff around Stairway.

Here's the amphitheater from today:

Bridleveil amphitheater 12/4/11

Pretty wet and soft and a bit thin in spots, but, some doable stuff. Don't fall! Not sure a screw would slow you down much...
dante kleinman · · Denali National Park, AK · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 15

Climbed White Nightmare today, all but the far right hand side is too chandeliered to climb without setting its growth back significantly, and it is quite wet still. A few more days of solid building and it will be looking right.

Bridalveil Right was lead and top roped for a while as well. It looked to be in much better conditions, in fact I would dare say it is in.

DuWayne Effland · · pewaukee, wisconsin · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 50

Photo Beta Love of Mary's Lake Dec 4 2011. Get it while it's still drivable. Made it back there in a subaru Impreza with Blizzak snow tires. Next sizable snowstorm and it will be ski or snowmobile only.

Mary's Lake climbs

close up

first lead of the season
atrau · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 0

Where is Marys Lake?

Rob

Mark Regier · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 35
Sunny-D wrote: These pictures are of Millers. Have any of the Fang the next one to the east up canyon.
Sunny D- thanks for the correction. I was going from memory of the guidebook. Next time I'll check again before I post.
Thanks
Harry Richardson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 125

Dirtcicle is in and nice. Climbed Saturday 12/3/11.

Sunny-D · · SLC, Utah · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 700
Mark Regier wrote: Sunny D- thanks for the correction. I was going from memory of the guidebook. Next time I'll check again before I post. Thanks
Sorry, I have been climbing in Provo Canyon for 20+ years and love both of those climbs, so I know them well. If you want to get out sometime give me a shout.
Dallen
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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