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The 2011-12 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread


Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,270
Kurt Ross wrote:I received a couple PMs asking about more beta and photos on Alexander's so... vimeo.com/31755590 Video by Cheyne
Love it! Nice work "K-Ross"!
Joseph Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Any word on Silverplume ice? Looking to get out the week of Thanksgiving.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325
Joseph Wright wrote:Any word on Silverplume ice? Looking to get out the week of Thanksgiving.
Drove past it yesterday. Forming but nothing climb-able yet.
8egg.nu · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Looking for San Juan conditions and found this: ourayiceclimbing.blogspot.com/

George Barnes · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 175

Spiral stairs looked thin, wet, and translucent but apparently had at least 2 parties on it anyway.

Continuous ice on Cupcake from last bolt to the anchors.

RD is almost down:

Designator, getting close. 11-13-11
George Barnes · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 175

The Amphitheater. There's more ice on cupcake than this shows.

By the way, a big thanks to whoever maintains/upgrades the anchors on all these mixed routes. Wow!

Amphitheater.
Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20
George Barnes wrote:The Amphitheater. There's more ice on cupcake than this shows. By the way, a big thanks to whoever maintains/upgrades the anchors on all these mixed routes. Wow!
+1, a HUGE thanks to anyone that spends their time maintaining climbing anchors for the community!
Mitch Musci · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 890

I've been checking conditions on Notchtop's NE face and just wanted to share some important avalanche forecasts taken from CAIC:

11/12
"Specific areas to watch are high elevation north through east aspects. These aspects hold the most snow and the current snowpack foundation is weak. New snow and wind-blown snow will quickly add a fresh load on top. Be especially careful in cross-loaded terrain. Gulleys and couloirs which hold more snow look enticing, but these locations are most susceptible for slides as storm snow loads into these areas with the ongoing moderate to strong winds."

Be careful out there!

mthomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30
Mitch Musci wrote:I've been checking conditions on Notchtop's NE face and just wanted to share some important avalanche forecasts taken from CAIC: 11/12 "Specific areas to watch are high elevation north through east aspects. These aspects hold the most snow and the current snowpack foundation is weak. New snow and wind-blown snow will quickly add a fresh load on top. Be especially careful in cross-loaded terrain. Gulleys and couloirs which hold more snow look enticing, but these locations are most susceptible for slides as storm snow loads into these areas with the ongoing moderate to strong winds." Be careful out there!
Has anyone been on the NE face this season? I was hoping to get on it, but its looking like it may already be too late.
Spencer Dries · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 95

Ice is forming in Morraine park. Not climbable yet though.

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,800

Officer's Gulch:

Shroud - sun rotted, meager.
Tony's - looked meager from below.
Unnamed - looked like some ice from the trail.
Round The Corner - has some ice from the trail.
Three Tiers - has climbable ice, water is running under the ice.
Chimney - has ice, treat it gently.

Three Tiers.

Snow - not much up high as of 11/18/11.

Giving you a feel for the snow level.
Tim Zander · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30

Fish Creek Falls in Steamboat is climbable. Was out there this AM, climbed the left side of the upper section. Pretty easy lead, too much snow.
The center section is pouring water, an open maw

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Dez is just touching and there is lots of other ice in Vail. Fang is forming. If it keeps this up there will be a lot of ice in Vail this year.

Cheyenne Chaffee · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 70

Ten Mile Canyon Update.
Three Tiers is in good shape and getting climbed often.
The two pitch chimney system 300 ft right of Three Tiers is in good shape as of last week. Mostly rock protection but few stubbies nice too. Extra #1 & 2 Camalot nice. Excellent route! Maybe WI3 M4.
Tony's Nightmare is in and the steep pitch had nice thick ice as of 11/20/11, upper pitches climbable but thin with water running underneath. Shroud still forming. Round the Corner looks huge with the mixed WI3 5.5 variation around the pillar in as well.
Have fun!

Bryan Gilmore · · New England · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,200

N. facing ice on Camp Bird is thin and IN. Birdbrain has seen a few ascents already, the ribbon has too. I went and climbed the rarely in shape Racing Stripe - great 1,000' feet of scrappy mixed, it pretty much packed every hard, scrappy move from the entire Birdbrain into the first 200' pitch, then it's a fun romp up to the last 200' of thick hero ice.

Halfway up P1 of the Racing Stripe.

Chuggin' up the last pitch, chasing the sun.
C. Trimble · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 255

Climbed a loong scrappy gully between Stairway and Hwy to Hell yesterday in Eureka with Allen Riling. Anyone know what it's called? seems longer than STH or Hoser's. Not in the guidebook. Consistently thin climbing, lots of stubbies,some rock gear, anchors difficult in a few places. Did a pitch of rock (looker's right) to get around a rotten hanging icicle in chossy rock 2/3rds of the way up. Really fun climb, wonder why it's not more popular? We traversed over to the STH descent and walked off. Great early season day out, 6 long pitches w/ some simul-climbing, lots of snow-slogging. Maybe WI4 M3 in the conditions we found. Go do it!

in Julian Smith's photo of Highway to Hell/route 66 below the route is visible just to the left of HTH.

P. 1.

Allen climbing p. 3.

Last pitch, Allen Riling climbing.
From the road, just below where you would hike down to the steambed on the approach.
Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,350

Vail: The Staircase, Belfry and Desi are in, many of the true mixed lines are being led and a new cable was hung down through the tube of the Fang. Our hope is to have it connect by the weekend if all works out. New drytool routes still going in and things are hoppin' in Vail.
Enjoy,
Griz

funkyicemonkey · · Colorado · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

First post here so hello all. Was pootling about in East Vail yesterday (20 November) and the ice is forming up nicely. Ridgid Designator is top to bottom but too thin. I ended up playing about on the ice behind the tennis courts, very solid if a bit dull.

Erik Werner · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 305

Dez and Fang, from Sunday 11/20



erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Did BBB yesterday. Wouldnt say the route is fat. More like classic alpine shape. Lots of scrappy M4-5 and thin ice. Enjoy.

Starting 3rd pitch.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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