Sharkstooth and then?

Howdy. I'm headed up to take a relatively new climber up Sharkstooth for their first "alpine" climbing. We're going to bivy Friday night near the start of the climb and plan to be done fairly early Saturday.

What could we tack on Saturday night/Sunday in that area? It doesn't have to be a technical climb... traverses, etc. are always fun. If it is technical, I'd like to keep it around .6, maybe .7.

Any and all ideas are welcomed!

Hey Ryan,

I would not try to pack too much into your trip. I don't know your friend, but I've taken a number of new folks out on climbs and it always takes longer than you think and is more tiring to them (especially mentally) than it is to you. I think for their first trip, a day on Sharkstooth may be more than enough. Either way, I hope you and your friend enjoy your trip.

Derek

Good advice Derek. I think we're just looking for alternative or additional things to consider if we do get done at a reasonable hour Saturday. Kind of like a plan B to "get done early, hike out, go home" kind of a thing.

Zowie is fun and in the same basic area.

It depends partly on what you are looking for and what you are doing first.

My guess is that you are doing the 4 pitch NE Ridge, 5.6?

Assuming that is correct, you could throw in the easier, but looser East Gully, at a mountaineering 5.4. It's right there, but it is FAR less clean.

On the South side, the South Ridge is 5.7, but it is much longer, on the opposite side of the ridge, and a bit more committing.

Zowie is a 5.8+, so I wouldn't recommend it unless you up your comfort range.

There are a couple routes on the way out, next to Zowie, on Wham, 5.7, but I haven't done them and they look looser.

Blackstar is 5.7+, but it isn't a great route. It's sort of alpine, not too far from your path, and grade II.

Head up Andrew's Glacier and hike along the Contintal Divide. If you head North you can summit Otis and Hallett and get some great views.

There is a nice bivy cave on the way up to Sharkstooth.

Some potential bouldering near Andrew's Glacier looked great, a few blocks had nice grassy landings. It's very obvious.

Glissading in that area was pretty fun a few weeks ago, might be melted out by now.

Lots of tourists/fishermen to chat with at Loch Vale. Bring a fly rod and catch some trout on the way out.

My advice for a semi-technical finish to the day:

Upon summitting, immediately head for Ed's Cantina in Estes Park and start drinking Margs. A competant party can easily make Happy Hour. Once you reach the 3-Marg limit, sweet talk the waitress into getting you a 4th. THE classic RMNP link-up.

If this person is new to the alpine game I would skip the Sharkstooth and do the Spiral Gully on Notchtop. Pretty easy climbing, nice summit, rap off and walk out.

I think the hike into Notchtop is one of the easiest approaches in the Park and the raps are pretty straightforward. Sharkstooth is nice but can be pretty chossy in places.

Just my opinion.

Excellent suggestions.

We looked at a map last night and were thinking about something creative like hike the ridge west of Sharkstooth around to Thatchtop or to Arrowhead... Now we have a lot of options to consider. Thanks everyone!

Ice cream in Estes Park! Don't forget to hang the binoculars around your neck and bring the trekking poles! If you are ill prepared for tourist mode, everything can be found at the 5 and 10 including the fanny pack and the Mount Rushmore T-shirt.

Ryan Stefani wrote:Excellent suggestions. We looked at a map last night and were thinking about something creative like hike the ridge west of Sharkstooth around to Thatchtop or to Arrowhead... Now we have a lot of options to consider. Thanks everyone!

I don't think the ridge west of Sharkstooth is hikable. You'll be on the Gash side, I assume, so getting to Thatchtop or Arrowhead is not convenient. I suppose you could descend to the Loch and then climb the S gulley or up Andrews Glacier and around to Thatchtop. It is a long ways either way.

Ben Sachs wrote: My advice for a semi-technical finish to the day: Upon summitting, immediately head for Ed's Cantina in Estes Park and start drinking Margs. A competant party can easily make Happy Hour. Once you reach the 3-Marg limit, sweet talk the waitress into getting you a 4th. THE classic RMNP link-up.

I was going to say that after finishing up earlier than expected, hitting Oscar Blues on the way through Lyons is always a great way to round out a trip to the Park. Ed's, Oscar's not so much a plan B just an option A.

How about heading back to Estes, Lily Lake and doing a little sport climbing?

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Enjoy Sharkstooth, really fun climb.

That's funny. My friend and I will be climbing the Northeast Ridge of Sharkstooth on saturday too! We won't be bivying though, so we will probably be getting started after you. We're probably gonna hit Ed's Cantina after the climb. Maybe we'll see ya there! Oh, be sure to warn us of any rockfall!

Haha, craziness - I'm the one going up with Josh on that day. I'm sure you'll start out before us though. Have a good climb and maybe we'll see you on the summit.