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All-day trad shoes that edge


Joe Virtanen · · Asheville, NC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 241

Love my technos, they do everything well. I boulder in them, sport climb, trad climb, and I never feel like I'd need a different shoe.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,275
Sergio Colombo wrote:La Sportiva TC Pro
+1 more for that. The toe in those is great for front-pointing too. Good design overall.
If $144 can be considered a sale price, they are in the dirtbag Deals thing right now:
ems.com/product/index.jsp?p…
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 15,382

TC Pro. Just got my snug ones resoled with C4. Now they're sticky too!

Best shoe I've ever owned.

"H" Lampasso · · Manitou Springs · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 95
Ben P wrote:I like my Boreal Aces they are awesome. Just make sure to get them resoled with some XS grip rubber. The original fusion rubber is terrible.
+1. I climb mostly with my lace up miuras, but I still put on my ole' (15 years old) aces. The only problem for me with them is the heel cup tears into my heel so I had to put duct tape in there. Great for slabby climbs.
Tom Mulholland · · #1 Cheese Producing State! · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 50

Definitely the TC pros. They have a ridiculously stiff platform, which allows you to stand on the tiniest features you could imagine.

Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Question for the TC Pro fans: have you ever owned any Aces and, if so, did the TC Pros climb like them?

I'm considering buying the TC Pros but absolutely hated the Aces. They were so stiff and insensitive I felt like I was climbing in mt. boots.

-sp · · East-Coast · Joined May 2007 · Points: 75
Fat Dad wrote:Question for the TC Pro fans: have you ever owned any Aces and, if so, did the TC Pros climb like them? I'm considering buying the TC Pros but absolutely hated the Aces. They were so stiff and insensitive I felt like I was climbing in mt. boots.
No, the TC's feel about as stiff as the Mega/Kaukulators did. I never climbed in Aces, but I remember trying them on and feeling like this:
Aces
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60

Thanks sp and Shumin.

Peter Stokes · · Them Thar Hills · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 150

I'll toss in another vote for the Miura lace-ups

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,135

five ten pitons are great

Rob Baumgartner · · Niwot · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 196

One more vote for TC Pros...

Scott Hansen · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 380

Boreal Ballet Gold are my all day trad shoe, one size larger than my Mythos. These bad boys have saved me plenty of ankle skin over the years!

Joe C · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 5

I tried out a pair of TC Pros I got from my friend. Dying to grab my own pair now. $$

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
bus driver wrote:five ten pitons are great
You are joking...right? Arguably the worst edging shoe ever made. Pretty ok for cracks.

I climbed in Boreal Aces's and then Ballet golds(high top aces) for a very long time. They are a pretty good all around shoe, and the stiffest you will find. But the are very boxy, any crack smaller than hands is harder in these shoes.

I'm climbing in TC pros now...they are nowhere near as stiff, so my feet get tired easier...but they are a MUCH better all around shoe.

josh
Chris Duca · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,095

Evolv Pontas Lace-ups. Once broken in, these puppies are quite comfy, and stellah for edging/crack climbing.

Julius Beres · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 325
Sergio Colombo wrote:La Sportiva TC Pro
+1

By far the best shoe I have ever owned...

I can wear it all day and it performs well. I will only use mythos on easy alpine routes where I'm not going to do anything hard enough to require performance. With the TC pros, you can wear them all day and still climb hard.

I got them on sale for $130 a while back... still pricey, but totally worth it. My only complaint is the lacing system. They are a bitch to replace after you tear a lace.
Sara Ann · · Sunnyvale, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5
Tank Evans wrote:TC Pros, hands down. I climbed in Muiras for years, but found them to soft for long free climbs on the captain. Got a pair of TCs and have never been more impressed with a shoe. Its the only shoe I have been able to wear all day, crack climb, offwidth, and climb 5.14 sport with no issues. They take a little getting used to as they are really stiff. The one caveat would be that I dont like them in the desert; the toe box is a little to high profile for thin desert splitters, but granite splitters are no problem.
I also climbed in Muiras for a while, and they were great.

Recently upgraded to TC Pros, and they are sicktastic. I got them right after my trip to Indian Creek, so can't comment too much on their performance in the desert, but I'd agree that the toe-box seems fat. In Yosemite, I didn't even have to jam my feet... just point your foot in the general direction of a crack and it'll stick. Also great on slab. Edging? You don't need an edge to stand on, you can stand on nothing.
Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,275
Tony B wrote: +1 more for that. The toe in those is great for front-pointing too. Good design overall. If $144 can be considered a sale price, they are in the dirtbag Deals thing right now: ems.com/product/index.jsp?p…
http://www.alssports.com/La-Sportiva-TC-Pro-Climbing-Shoe/10122584/Product

Same thing $101.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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