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Ice climbing conditions

jnrose5 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 30

I went out to GWI this afternoon just to look. I know, there was no chance it was going to be frozen, but I still went to look. So sad. Not even close; just a gushing, beautiful waterfall surrounded by snow. I'm guessing this is pretty much the case for everything in the state right now.

I'm considering heading out to the GWI, and just politely asking it (and the rest of the climbs in Utah) to consider freezing. Anyone want to join me? We can just sit and wait and drink beer until it freezes. That would be nice.

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

Drove by stairway again today (12.21), There was so much snow it was kind of hard to tell how thick the ice as was at first. The ice is still thin. I think in 2-3 days, as long as the temps stay cold the apron should come in. There was virtually nothing (no ice) formed on the upper pitches. Sad.

Levi Kepsel · · Paducah KY · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

The dirtsicle was in when I drove past this afternoon. It's been above freezing in Joe's the last 3 or 4 days. Anyone driven through Upper Weber canyon lately? Croyden area? there's a couple smears that come in occasionally.

Kiwi · · Stansbury Park, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

I hiked up to the base of GWI yesterday (12-24) and it's gone. There is the thinest possible sheet if ice on it, but for the most part there is nothing. If the temperature drops a little it should be thin but climbable by the end of the week. I will be heading up again on Thursday or Friday to update the conditions on stairway to heaven and bridal veil.

Shiho · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 100

Went to Santaquin today (12/25). It was worse than the last time I went there (12/17). There was nothing climbable. I didn't have a camera this time, but here is a pic of Squash head as of 12/17.

Rob Alexander · · Alta · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 80

Any ice updates?

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385

Went to Joe's Valley on Monday:

CCC Falls pitch one is in decent shape:

Dallen on CCC Falls, P1

Pitch 2 on the other hand is a bit thin. No one in or group was willing to lead it:

Tyler TR'ing CCC Falls, P2

The Donorcicle was pretty thick but has detached and moved a few inches. We didn't climb it...

Donorcicle, seperated at top

The Highway to Heaven was low on ice and the rope up pitch was pretty rotten. Glad Dallen was leading!

Dallen Leading in the Highway to Heaven

Nothing else was in enough to climb...

Tyler King · · Salt Lake, UT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,385

Fixed my pics ^

Kiwi · · Stansbury Park, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

Climbed up Great white icicle today, it wasn't all there, but it was easily climbable. Second pitch was really thin, and the last pitch pillar wasn't in, but everything is filling in nicely. I also got a look at scruffy band on the way up, its not quite there yet. So unless you have some major mixed skills it would be wise to stay away from that one.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

Just back from Provo.
Stairway is in through 5. Fang, finger of fate and millers are in but still small.

Climbed White Nightmare and the 1st mixed route to the right, both are great.
Bridal veil right is in nicely. Left is in, looked steep and chandeliered at the bottom.

Daniel Kryger · · wanship, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

any one been to santaquin?

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

friends where there 2 days ago. Climbed Ricochet and said that squash head and backoff where just about good to go.

meyerx · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 0

Anyone in the know on Maple Canyon conditions?

PAS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 20

Climbed in Provo Canyon on Friday and it is on for sure. I do not have pictures and realize that in and climbable are often two different things. Everything is touching, although some pitches are still chandelier. There is free-hanging ice above P5 and the Stump chimney on six appears to be ice. We did the BR right & White Knightmare circuit and they took good screws. Everything from the Fang down canyon is connected in a classic sense, as it appeared from road.

Eric Bonin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 40

New to UT ice...Was wondering if there is any top ropable stuff near SLC?? Want to get out and most definitely can't lead ice yet.

Kiwi · · Stansbury Park, UT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 10

If you want to toprope, the stairway to heaven is the place to go. The first pitch is super wide, and there are a few set anchors on top.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

Looking for some info from those that might know. We climbed this.

To the right of Scruffy.

It's in the quartzite between Scruffy and Table Scraps. Not in the book or on MP. Really faded slings on the tree at the top. Easy mixed rock to good ice. Worth doing.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

I don't think it's the Dagger. The Dagger is straight up from Scruffy and once through the actual "dagger" there is an additional 200'ish of ice. It is forming up as well.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,995

Its not "Not My Fault" is it?

I seem to dimly recall Tyler or someone that's done something in that area. Luke?

There were photo's of someone on it a year or three ago?

Yeah, the dagger route is to the right of Contact Gully. Brian Smoot oughta add that one into the database.

Edit to add: that upper route is in the database as "Upper Dagger".

Edit to add: Carl Page posted this a couple years ago on utahclimbers:

If you are asking about the red one inch webbing around a pretty good sized pine tree above the Hanging Pillar, we left that webbing. What a great ice year this has been. We where able to climb in that area four or five times this year, we get out every Wednesday morning before work and then when we can. When we first slung the tree we left two lever biners. Later we replaced the biners with a Mailon Screw Link. We had one comical experience; Bill Rosqvist started the Pillar low and to climbers right as a traverse. His right axe was set well and high as he started moving left until his right arm was fully extended. He then set his left ax as far left as he could reach. While trying to get his right ax out his crampons slipped and he looked as if he was being crucified. It was a great laugh watching him get himself out of that situation.

So, red webbing with a rapide on that tree?

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

No not it either. Not in a chimney by any means. The pillar forms on the right side of an overhanging Quartzite wall and is well west of the seam where the granite and Quartzite meet.
Slings where sewn Bluewater and 9/16th webbing no biners or rapide.
Here's a closer look.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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