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The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread


DGavelis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5

Did anyone get up to Lincoln Falls today to see what condition the ice is in? Thinking about heading that way tomorrow. North Clear Creek was a soupy mess. Still climbable, but it was super drippy by 230 when my climbing partner and I bailed.

Ryan N · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 195
Ryan N wrote:Has anyone climbed Esperanza in Silverplume?? Is it worth the effort to get to it??
Yea went there today 12-4-10 and it SUCKS!!! Not worth the drive, hike, or time it takes to get there.
John Maguire · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 195
Ryan N wrote: Yea went there today 12-4-10 and it SUCKS!!! Not worth the drive, hike, or time it takes to get there.
Bummer! Starting Saturday the 11th, Ryan - I will have a lot of free time. Lets try to get out again.
Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

San Juans are generally good. Warm weather has knocked the avy danger down, but is starting to take a toll on some climbs. Ribbon is excellent (though no reliable pro for about the first half rope length - easy climbing here however). Skylight climbs are reportedly wet. There's a cool pillar in across from The Ribbon and above Senator Gulch that goes at about "IP5" ("Ice Park 5). Goldrush is reportedly in, but with the heat, might not still be. Dexter Ck Slabs look good from the road. Other Eureka stuff is good for the time of year.

The Ice Hose looks to be taking a beating from the heat. P1 is still thin/verglassy and P2 looks slushy and detatched. Bridalveil might go for a true hardpan/woman on the left side, but it would be quite the adventure (will post a pic later). Ingraham is a big sheet with a tiny little pillar all the way down to the ground. Could see some ice atop the Cracked Canyon climb from the road, but no idea what, if anything, that means. Same for Skyrocket, but again, with the heat, I can't imagine it's all there.

Have fun and be safe!

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Went to Lincoln yesterday and had a fun time. Besides the obvious Scottish Gully there are several other routes with interesting mixed or thin ice variations that can be done.

We got in four different routes before we had to leave. I felt it was worth the two hour drive there.

Jaaron Mankins · · Durango, CO · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 930

Whorehouse on 12-3. Super plastic one swing ice!

Pitch one.

Pitch three-right side.

Birdrain on 12-4 with party of three.

Ian wanting it!
Note anemic, detached crux pillar above his right shoulder.

Above crux pillar.

jbarnum · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 65

In Ten Mile today. Three Tiers was totally filled in with snow as well as the Chimney to the right of it. Bring some larger gear for the Chimney, as the ice is thin. This was mostly a snow slog and given the looks of Three Tiers we did not even go over there. The Shroud is in, but could use a some colder temps, and some more time to bond to the rock. Running water down the right side as we climbed it. Fun and steep. But I guess you should get on it now, as the Avi danger is only going to go up. Silverplume had numerous parties on it, as I passed, and guessing on previous posts, probably getting beat up.

Shroud.

Three Tiers.

Chimney.

Ross Swanson · · Pinewood Springs · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 2,191

Did Stoneman at Black Lake 05DEC10 top pitch was wet, and more importantly, if you are skiing the snow above the river on the hike past Mills Lake may not support body weight every where.

Bryan Gilmore · · FLG, AZ · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,225

I was going to have some sick photos for you all of Birdbrain and the Ribbon, but see note below. Anyway, BbB is in great shape and is getting gang banged, I'd say it's been climbed 10x more in the last couple weeks than the last 3 seasons. But, be prepared for runout chossy slab climbing and since the little pillar down low has fallen I'd say it's M6ish (you can see the pillar in the above pic on BbB). Otherwise it's nice. The Ribbon is good sticky ice all the way.

And... Gosh dang it! I lost my favorite camera somewhere between the top of Birdbrain Boulevard and the bottom of the Ribbon. I last remember using it to take a "summit" pic then after the rappels into and down the Ribbon it was no longer clipped to me. :( If you find it, please contact me here, or 970-626-5053. I will be very grateful. I did post this in the lost and found forum too.

OReid · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 35

Was up at Black Lake, Sunday 12/5.

climbed what I think was "reflections" north of the lake:


Lots of other ice around there, but mostly short, thin smears. The main flow we climbed is to the left in the photo, partially hidden by trees. Seemed like WI2, maybe.

Then we moved on to the West Gully and did the first pitch and a half up to the lower bench:


The crux was super fun, and quite plastic:


The snow cone leading up to the base is still firm beneath, but getting covered in powder (6-8" so far). Some wallowing was experienced, especially on the descent.

The climbs to the right appear to be in (photo taken on the descent):

Tom Willard · · Avon, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 165

Does anyone have a current update on Vail conditions? Thanks

Chacal · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 170
Tom Willard wrote:Does anyone have a current update on Vail conditions? Thanks


Firehouse: just the central gullie. Everything else is growing and thin.
Staircase: in but very wet this week with the high temps.
Ampitheatre: "Designator" is in but suuuuuuuuuuuuper wet and chandeliered; to my knoledge, has not been climbed yet. Mixed lines like "7th Tentacle" or "cup cake" are in.
Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,540

FWIW, Boulder Canyon as of 12/7/10 - Lower Falls, mixed...at best. Not worth the gas. Upper Falls - barely in. Some of it is an inch thick. Right side isn't in. Lots of water flowing, but mostly down 2 lines.

Tombo · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 390

Any word on conditions in Coal Creek Canyon?

Steve Williams · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

Curious about the road conditions down
to Mt. Lincoln ice?
Thanks!

Douglas Lossner · · Delta, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 1,145
Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Vail (12/10)
Spiral is in and not too wet. No harder than 3+.
Eraser is in, Pencil is in but a little more delicate. We left it alone.
Esmeralda was sweet. Secret probation has plenty of ice.
Dez looked climbable on the left but it's still chandeliery. We left it alone.
Not much ice behind the fang except for 7th tentacle and a little at the top of cupcake.

Plenty to keep you busy if you like some mixed with some ice too.

EDIT: My partner lost a cell phone up there. Either @ base of Godzilla, R of Spiral, or Esmerelda. Please let me or him know (ErikW on MP) if you find it.

mthomas · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30

Headed to Lincoln this morning, 70 was a mess so we veered off back down clear creek. Thought about wasting time at blackhawk...instead went and checked out coors lite. Nothing in yet, 2nd pitch right sheet 6 feet off the ground...really wet, anyone thinking about farming?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
matt thomas wrote:Headed to Lincoln this morning, 70 was a mess so we veered off back down clear creek. Thought about wasting time at blackhawk...instead went and checked out coors lite. Nothing in yet, 2nd pitch right sheet 6 feet off the ground...really wet, anyone thinking about farming?
3 hours from Broomfield to Keystone...

Poached some great powder runs though!!
Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 19,167

Climbed at the Chaos Creek area today in RMNP. The "Olympic Games" Pillar is not formed. The "Luge", "Slalom Skiing", and "The Bobsled" are all very thin and not well formed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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