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The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread


Noah McKelvin · · Colorado Springs · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,025

While alot of ice is melting in Colorado, Canada is doing good for those heading there soon. Sea of Vapors on the Trophy Wall is in mighty good shape! In easy WI5 condition right now with one mixed move. (M4?) Of what originally was graded WI7+ R. That climb alone is worth the 20 hour drive. Go get it! It's quite the place up there.

Sea of Vapors is the right line.
On lead of P3.
Almost to the top. Kurt Ross following.
Jeff leading The Replicant in WI6+ conditions. Looked desperate!
Bryan Hendrick · · Leadville, CO · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 65

Noah, you know what happens when you post about Canadian ice right?
You have to buy me a plane ticket to Canada and be my climbing partner for a week. :D

Looks like you all had a good time up there... if only it were a little closer.
Thanks for the post.

Eric Wright · · Telluride CO. · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 1,280

Looking for ice climbing partners.

David Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 190

Stairway to Heaven is in great shape in Silverton, did it last weekend.

March 25, 2011.

Just below 1st pitch.

Crux pitch.

Last pitch.
coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485
Avocado Gully is almost out for the season

I would say 1 to 2 more weeks
Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

Lincoln Falls is still in great!! Super fat and awesome. It was a great day on great ice till the blizzard ran us off.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

How is Vail hanging? Looking to get out tomorrow and the recent snow has me looking for avy safe routes.

Also open to other FR suggestions, WI4/5, m4-7 depending on bolts or gear. Multi pitch would be great but I'll take what I can get.

Thanks!

Eli Helmuth · · Ciales, PR · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 1,406

Brain Freeze in RMNP was in great shape on Sunday. Very cold up there today so even firmer and likely great manana. With all the fresh snow it wouldn't be smart to be hanging out up there in the heat.

Put up a new conditions report for RMNP here - enjoy!

Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,370

Vail Conditions: Vail is in stellar shape despite the warming temps. The Fang has finally formed enough to be climbed and it saw it's first lead. It was a long wait and I really thought I wouldn't get a chance to climb it this year (not into top-roping routes like this), but the 20-40 temps helped alot. I climbed straight on the front, gapping the upper/lower mushroom (Cruxy on shitty, thin death flakes) and pushed (not screwed) some gear in the foamy base of the pillar. The pillar was a bit wet on one side and brittle/cicled on the other. Monos were tough as they sheared a bit through the 20' fragile pillar, not a good place to lose your feet. Sketchy hooks led to bomber ice above the fractured roof. There was nothing safe about the route, and 3 of the 5 screws would have probably held. Don't even think about placing pro in the pillar. Kinda was like a solo, for the most part, delicate, bold and heady but not strenuous, I'd give it a WI5+ R/X. Warmer temps are predicted for all of next week, this may be the end???...get on it!

The warmer temps are great for the drytool lines and ice routes like the Desi, Staircase, Belfry and 7th are all in great, although the composition of some surface ice is changing. Check out all the new drytool lines like Kozata Baba M6+, Hair of the Bear M7, and The Mauling M8.

Below is a link to the Fang lead a friend videoed from his home, across the I-70 highway. Elias apologizes that he didn't have time to link in some Disco.

youtube.com/watch?v=ts4bbBh…

Keeping my head together up on the delicate pillar.
Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

Was in Ouray climbing Wednesday we did Fractured Fairytales in the CampBird Rd skylight area. Ouray's Ice is there but def wet and sunbleached in alot of parts. FF was some good ice with some real shitty ice more of the latter. Good mixed route though. We moved onto Telluride on Thurs. Climbed in Bear Creek Gorge. Really fat ice but running water behind alot of it, some steep shit still in. But while Eric was climbing the climb to our right totally ripped off and collapsed. Bridalveil and Telluride's Fang looked good though. Thanks Eric for partnering up and climbing some so so and good ice this week. Get on it the ice isnt going to be around much longer.

David Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 190

Good job on the Fang! Didn't think it was going to come in at all a month ago, looked exciting just the same. Late season ice is always exciting!

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,270
Dreamweaver?
David Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 190

We have to keep this one on page one! Any news on ice that is still in? Longs peak/Meeker cirque?

Justin Brown · · Colorado Springs, Co · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 55

We were at Lincoln today. Its still awesome and super fat. For once actually nice weather today up there, little wind.

OReid · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 35

I was out training on the Jewel Lake ice on Saturday. It was cold, brittle, and very fat. I would assume that any route on a similar aspect & elevation to be in good shape (shaded, east facing, ca. 10,000').

David Appelhans · · Medford, MA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 410

Anyone know if the ice is still in at Silverplume?

George Barnes · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 175

Extremely unlikely. Keep driving to Lincoln Falls.

John Klooster · · Arvada, CO · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 10

Quite a bit of ice still in the Park. Was in Glacier Gorge sunday. Climbed West Gully, lots of ice (and snow) up near Black Lake.

David Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 190

Climbed Lincoln Falls today, bit of snow on it but its in fat, if you still have the ice bug and don't want to hike very far its still worth a visit

Rob Griz · · Frisco · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 1,370

VAIL: Firehouse- The Firehouse is in exceptional condition and the routes are great. The East Firehouse Pillar finally touched down (8" across and 2" wide) and was a fun lead at WI5. Lowe Pressure still has a nice open window from when I chopped it, so turning the curtain is alot easier. The ice has it's usual Spring time surface to it, but underneath it's solid. We skied the Raquet Club Chute after climbing and caught Stephen Marley for a free concert- a full-value day in the mountains!
The Desi is in decent shape although getting sun (when it's out!) on the top. The base of the Fang area is muddy and the Fang pillar has melted back from the top curtain, with a gaping hole mid-way in the back of the massive cone. Staircase still holding strong and there's lots of drytooling to get you strong!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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