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"Gear for sale - no falls" Really?


Original Post
cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

Browsing through the posts in the "For Sale " section makes me feel like a really unsafe climber.

"Cams for sale, no falls"
"Never fallen on"
"Never held a fall"

and so on and so on.

Am I alone in that I do fall onto my gear and couldn't possibly remember what has seen a fall and what hasn't, or are people just bullshitting so that they can sell their stuff? If I find a route with clean falls on good gear in solid rock that's perhaps a bit past my ability, I've got no problem going for it. Before someone quotes it, IMHO, the "leader must not fall" mantra had a lot more relevance before the invention of things like harness, nylon ropes, and SLCDs.

Anyways, just ranting away. Clearly, I won't be selling pro on MP in the future.

-Chris

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

I dunno, perhaps it's just the same people who try to sell gear for 10% off MSRP.

Aaron Martinuzzi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 1,485

i sort of agree. if i ever tried to sell passive pro or carabiners i'd also have no way to verify what's been fallen on and what hasn't...i'm guilty of climbing on a lot of booty in those portions of my rack.

Adam Paashaus · · Greensboro, NC · Joined May 2007 · Points: 791

Whats the difference if the piece has been pull tested indoors by the company or outside by me anyway. I'm gonna sell my aliens for $200 a pop because i've "pull tested" them and I know they hold a fall! takers?

Tristan Higbee · · Ogden, UT · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 2,970
Chris Drover wrote:Am I alone in that I do fall onto my gear and couldn't possibly remember what has seen a fall and what hasn't, or are people just bullshitting so that they can sell their stuff?
I've got gear that I've been using for years, and have taken a bazillion falls on. But I also have gear that is new in the sense that I've taken it with me on climbs and to the crag and maybe have placed but have never fallen on. So yes. I know that some of my pieces have never taken a fall.

And I think that there are a lot of people out there who like the idea of trad climbing, buy a set of cams, lead a couple 5.6s, realize that they'd rather crush 5.12 sport and not be scared, and their cams just sit collecting dust for a year or two until they need some money. In that case, yes, I think that they would know if their gear has been fallen on or not.

Surely you can see how the climber in either case can know if gear has taken a fall.
Evan1984 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

I would say that most trad gear does not get fallen on. The fact is that most people aren't pushing themselves on trad. Yes, I know that some are, but most simply aren't logging the airtime.

Also, I tend not to sell my useful and proven gear.

Evan

Puzman puziss · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 45

That's kinda like "Egyptian tank for sale. Never fired, only driven in reverse"

Jody Jacobs · · NE, GA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 180

I know some trad climbers who avoid falling like the plague...others who fall a lot.

If you have doubts about the safety of used gear you probably shouldn't buy it.

Frank K · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 30

nicely done. you found a way to say that you take a lot of falls, obviously more than most people, without sounding like a spray lord.

or not.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

puzman, that was hilarious. i think aliens actually get a better price if you HAVE fallen on them.... and didn't get jacked up.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355
Frank K wrote:nicely done. you found a way to say that you take a lot of falls, obviously more than most people, without sounding like a spray lord. or not.
If admitting to repeatedly not onsighting, not redpointing, occasionaly not even finishing, and all-around generally failing, flailing, and thrashing on climbing routes is now considered spraying, I am guilty as charged, and I quit the internet.
Frank K · · Bishop, CA · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 30

way to take falls bro, nice job, man you are climbing right, all those no falls dudes are idiots who are never going to get better. awesome brah.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355
Frank K wrote:way to take falls bro, nice job, man you are climbing right, all those no falls dudes are idiots who are never going to get better. awesome brah.
Yes, that's exactly what I meant. Were there any other words you wanted to put in my mouth while you're at it?
Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

I'm with you Chris. I couldn't begin to remember that stuff nor would I ever want to in extreme detail, because there is everything else on the rope that took weight and what exactly was every one of those pieces and how was that placed or am I thinking primarily about the climbing right now... I do have friends that remember the craziest stuff like that or just don't fall or take, downclimbing only.

Believing the selling posters is pretty situation/person specific and I'd be unlikely to believe that line without a lot of firsthand knowledge. But it is true that some folks really haven't fallen much on trad.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

I'm having a real hard time making sense of the majority of your post Cindy.

Ryan Kelly · · work. · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 2,970
Cindy wrote:I'm with you Chris. I couldn't begin to remember that stuff nor would I ever want to in extreme detail, because there is everything else on the rope that took weight and what exactly was every one of those pieces and how was that placed or am I thinking primarily about the climbing right now... I do have friends that remember the craziest stuff like that or just don't fall or take, downclimbing only. Believing the selling posters is pretty situation/person specific and I'd be unlikely to believe that line without a lot of firsthand knowledge. But it is true that some folks really haven't fallen much on trad.
But wouldn't you agree that the disillusion of the falling paradigm lends itself to carelessness through archi-syncratic adoption of reckless behavior?
taylorpur · · vancouver, bc · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 5
Frank K wrote:way to take falls bro, nice job, man you are climbing right, all those no falls dudes are idiots who are never going to get better. awesome brah.
i don't think he was spraying, your just knobbing around because you're on the internet.

falling in only reckless if you have not considered the situation into which you may find your self in.
Derek W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 20

I've never fallen on any of my gear. Mainly because I'm awesome. Partly cuz I'm a chicken shit. But mostly because I'm awesome. Thanks for caring...

Wade Frank · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 145

I fell into a narrow chimney once and my body stopped the fall before I got to the last piece I placed.

So if I were to sell myself on the internet should I disclose that I have been fallen on?

Cindy · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 20

Scott - Just try reading it very very slowly and see if anything comes to you. Or better yet just stick with the first sentence and the last. I am not good at the internet forum jabbering. Sorry if that's all you were able to hear in my post too.

Ryan - Yeah, yeah, whut u said dude!

Ed Earl Johansen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Chris, you just need to sell it as "Well tested".

It always astounds me to see someone overpaying for an old 11mil x 50M rope on ebay, "lightly used, no falls". The damn thing is obviously past it's expiration date - probably 15-20 years old and probably sitting without a ropebag in the dudes garage floor next to where he stores the battery acid.

duh.

That said, I did climb with an otherwise incredibly competent and skilled climber who'd bought a newer one, but still used, off ebay and I learned it when we were out using his rope. I asked his rope age and he comes up with the ebay story that goes: "The guy said it was fine".....

..I should have offered up one of the many fine bridges I have for sale....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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