Visiting Sedona in August

Hello. I'm going to be visiting the Sedona area with my girlfriend for a week in August. We are looking to do some climbing while we're visiting relatives. Trad or sport is fine, but nothing too adventurous. My GF is still learning, and I don't want to epic with her...yet. We probably won't be climbing much over 5.9 trad and 5.10-5.11 sport.

I hear the sandstone around Sedona can be somewhat suspect when placing gear. Is this true? Would I be better off heading up to Flagstaff, in terms of weather and safety on gear?

If there were one area for trad and one area for sport in the Sedona/Flagstaff vicinity that you would not miss, what would they be?

Thanks for your help!

For Trad go up the road to the Overlook ... YOu can set top-ropes if you bring enough webbing and then rap down ... or set the top rope and walk down... Good Routes for trad though...
The Sandstone can be tricky and its been raining up in the area so you might want to be careful - the monsoons are in effect.
The routes can be a big epic if Sandstone scares you - but if you like adventure - try Mars Attacks.. the first pitch is the killer slab and the rest is great fun - except for the airy traverse...

Have Fun!

Air Alexy wrote:Trad or sport is fine, but nothing too adventurous. My GF is still learning, and I don't want to epic with her...yet.

First thing...climbing in Sedona is quite adventurous by its very nature. Not a place to be taken lightly. All the talk about weak sandstone is just reactionary at worst and misinformed at best. If you can place quality gear and manage risk there is no problem with Sedona rock. Many of the climbs in Sedona are difficult or impossible to bail from without leaving gear if you get into trouble.

After all that...those are the reasons that makes Sedona so great. Longs climbs on great lines to amazing summits.

If you head up Oak Creek Canyon you will find a limited selection of moderate trad on basalt. Your best bet would be to check out some of the area around Flag and Prescott if you are concerned with keeping things moderate and accessible for someone who is still learning.

Something else to keep in mind:
Sounds like you might be visiting AZ in the middle of monsoon season. Keep an eye on the weather as thunderstorms can (and will) develop in the afternoon, some storms being extremely heavy (several inches of rain in a very short period of time).

Hey Air Alexy,

August is summer and hot!!

Come up to Flag and get some good climbing in. The Overlook is south facing and dark rock. Great but could be warm too.

Get in to the forest at West Elden or the Pit. Has what you need for craggin, beginners, and nice place to hang. Very user friendly.

Sedona is awesome and not so much the horror show that people say. It is adventurous for sure.

MC

It was the whole - Girlfriend is learning - I cant think of a route in Sedona that I would want to take someone that is learning...but thats just me ...

Just an FYI - they are lifting the Raptor Ban in Prescott - you should go check out the Green Slabs on Granite Mountain too - great exposure and 5.6 trad routes ... great for a learner ...

bjglenn wrote: If you head up Oak Creek Canyon you will find a limited selection of moderate trad on basalt.

MP documents 63 routes at the Overlook.
There are other easier things not documented.
Limited ?

For climbing with a noob GF, I'd stick with the Overlook.
But you need to avoid the sun. Early AM or late afternoon.

Experienced climbers epic in Sedona all the time.
There are plenty of non epics to be had but there are plenty of epics to be had.

Or, go up to Flag and clip and go at the pit.

Like previously said, I don't think Sedona is what you want at this stage.