Mountain Project Logo

Hangboard Recommendations... I know you are thinking search the thread..


Original Post
dolemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

Hi folks,
I know this topic has been addressed ad nauseum, but a lot of the boards people recommend have been discontinued...the Yaniro board, anything from stoneage,the original nexgen etc. So what are people using that they like and that is available? I am not to worried about pinches on the board as I will probably by a set of etch pinches or if i can find them, an old set of stone age pinches. Anybody use the cryptochild board from so ill?

As far as my training goes I follow, with some adjustment, the rockprodigy guide.

thanks in advance

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

i think the best board in terms of strict, programmed training is the little metolius simulator, or if you want to spend extra maybe the bigger similar one. my reason is that the holds are straight forward, so when you are keeping notes on weight, time, etc, you won't have to worry about holding the holds EXACTLY the same way during your next workout.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

hahaha...this is probably the ONE topic I can't remember seeing!!

tscupp · · Englewood, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,425

In the past, I used a nicros warrior board and didn't care much for it. Some of the holds were too slick and the slopers didn't really feel like slopers. Then I moved onto to using the small metolius simulator at the gym. It was much better but I still didn't like the slopers and it felt a little abrasive on the skin, well the pockets at least. I also got past the lack of pinches by using the pinches on the HIT strips which was nice because they are at a better angle. I finally decided to get a beastmaker 2000. I've yet to start my dedicated hangboarding on it but I like the concept of it better than the others. The wood feels a bit better, there are 3 sloper angles and a good variety of pockets and edges. That being said, it is still not perfect, as there are no real jugs or pinches and it is fairly pricey because of shipping costs and the exchange rate. I went ahead and bought some narrow/medium sized climb-it pinches and put them on a separate pieces of plywood, but this requires space behind it for the bolts so it can be more of a pain depending on your setup. Also, because pinches might require a different optimum angle, having them on a separate piece of wood is better so that adjustment can be made.

There is also the beastmaker 1000 which has jugs and some bigger holds.

James Arnold · · Chattanooga · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 55

I have the old school Entreprise 8b which has a couple of great features but generally sucks. It's not available and frankly I can't believe it has survived 15 years and numerous moves. I guess I never used it "that much"...

I bought the simulator 3d last winter and actually use it. It has a nice ergonomic design (check the curves and taper) and a lot of good grips including my favorite sloper ever (that would be pretty hard to duplicate imho). No pinches per se though, which fits your criteria fine!

metoliusclimbing.com/simula…

ian watson · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 235

I made my own,(kinda) I bought metolius rock rings, set of the 5 specialty metolius holds a 4 foot piece of 2x10 and 8 lag bolts and 3 really big eye hooks ( i think thats what they are called) So heres how it goes down find your studs and mark your board i did top and botom like this : skip to next stud : same : same: then i marked the holes for the holds on the top where i wanted them and mounted the 3 eye hooks on the bottom spaced evenlyish. drill all holes and put the t-nuts in for your holds and mount your holds, bolt to wall above doorway then screw in your massive eye hooks i had to use vice grips. now take 2 biners and install your rock rings on the hooks you will have a narrow grip option and wide grip on the 2 outers. I am happy with my build i do the rock ring included workouts, and i also play i reach up and grab my special hold to simulate reaching up for a pinch,crimp,sloper, etc. it feels alot more realistic for training. also i hang on a rock ring with my harnees and some draws and i let go of one and get a draw off my harness then reach up and clip the remaing eye hook, trust me when you can do this clipping outside with your feet on the rock even if you have crappy footholds is way easier.i also do the same thing with trad gear but i use the extra rock ring the top slot takes a #4 mastercam ,middle is a # 3 master cam and on the bottom beloved pink tri-cam and dont set it hard or your gonna have a problem (ask me how i know) then i clip a Extendable draw and extend it by now if your a newb like me you will be massivly pumped placing those 3 pieces and then the runners and exteding them. This whole setup cost me almost $90 but i like it. get holds that are different all the way around so each hold is like 4 different holds 5x4= 20 practice holds. also forgot after i drilled my holes i painted the wood white to match my walls.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

the thing with building your own is the total cost of it. you should also consider time into the cost. in order to make a comparable hangboard, it will probably cost the typical working-stiff-professional about 3 times as much.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

and again, you are forgetting labor cost. like i said, the typical working stiff will probably end up paying 3 times as much to make one as to just buy one. edges? don't forget to use a router on them or they will crush your tendons. ditto the pockets. just but some slopers and add them on? have you priced holds lately? doesn't really seem like a cost effective solution. i bought a cheap hangboard a while back to use while travelling - $15 new, and a lot nicer than something i could make for the same price, even excluding labor.

steve edwards · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2004 · Points: 660

Climbingholds.com has great deals on seconds. I have the Cryptochild board (with the big balls, right, I'm not so good with names). It's decent. The pinches are great, the balls are good, and it's got a bunch of edges but no pockets. One of the best boards I've seen is the Mothership, by Etch (I think). It's got everything you need but space could be an issue mounting it. I could not fit one in my space and I have a LOT of space. An oddly effective board is the Etch Hera. For effetiveness vs space/cost it's by far the best board I've seen. There were (are) four boards at the Front and I used that one for 90% of what I did. At home, however, I had an old Nicros board that's only ok but has a bunch of pockets, small slopes, and edges and the Crypto board so I don't need a Hera (becaise the holds on that combo is better than what's on the Hera) but if I lived somewhere where I only had a small space I would get a Hera. I've used most boards on the market over the years. Have not used the Beastmaster but it looks rad. Its cost, however, is borderline ridiculous. Then again, how much is having the right tool worth to you? If you use it regularly, like a cycle or two every year, it would be worth a thousand bucks if it was the board you found the most effective.

I have some HIT strips on my wall. The downside with these as a board is that they should be mounted beyond vertical. I think one of the Andersons' has done this. There are pics in another thread if you'd like to see an example.

dolemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

Yeah I think it is a tough call between the iron palm, hera, and the mother board. The mother board looks huge, i have some space, but dang that thing looks big. I am going to have a HIT wall and another wall at prolly 30 degrees past vertical. Thought about a moon school room, but the gf kaiboshed because of the steep angle- furthermore, as far as i can tell from the website, they haven't come out with new problems in three years. The beastmaster looks cool but the price is ridiculous.

What do you all like for pinches on your wall? I have heard some good things about the etch pinches...

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

dana, 250 to 350 bucks, where are you shopping for hangboards at? nordstrom's, starbucks? the 3 i have bought have been between 15 and 50 bucks.

mostly just giving you a hard time. i actually built my own pinch setup and my 3 ringlock/thumbstack/tight hands crack setups.

Will S · · Joshua Tree · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,051

Whoo hoo, UPGRADE baby! Scored a swap of my little Metolius for an old Stone Age Manta (from a sympathetic friend who doesn't hangboard much anymore). This thing is pretty close to perfect, only thing I'd do different is angle the smaller two sets of edges a tad (they're straight), and swap the shallow "3 finger imprint" pockets for something else.



I looked at a lot of the stuff currently on offer before hooking up the trade.

The new Metolius Project would have been ideal if the edges were smaller. The layout, angle, taper, are really good. The texture is kind of junky and spotty compared to the older metolius stuff which was very uniform/even. The newest Simulator has tons of holds...but they all kinda suck, not enough variety and not small enough edges. Would be a good first board as the layout/taper etc are very good.



Iron Palm...The big ball slopers are cool since they can kind of work as slopers AND pinches. Good edges, and pretty good pinches that can be used narrow or wide. Good board, could use some angle to the edges, but weirdly has no pockets...just train the two finger combos on the edges maybe? One of the better boards on offer.


Hera...some flex issues with the thin bottom edge.If you have budget issues(they are pretty cheap at climbingholds.com), would be an ok choice, but I think I'd take the Project over this one.


Etch Motherboard is badass, tied for the best thing currently available IMO.



Delire Redpoint station is the other "best", probably even better than the Motherboard. Nice slight curve to the edges, lots of choices.


Nicros Infinity board...WAY expensive and not that good IMO. Our gym had one and I used it a couple times when it was brand new (not slimed up yet) and didn't care for it at all.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply to "Hangboard Recommendations... I know you are thi…"
in the Training Forum

Log In to Reply