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Longs/Meeker/Martha condtions


Jon Cheifitz · · Superior, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 65
Chris Wenker wrote:We had hoped to try a trip up there this coming weekend. So how much more fresh stuff did Tuesday's system add to the high country? How's it look like it's gonna bond to the existing snowpack? Lumpy and Eldo rock are probably also wet now? thx
We didn't get it to hard at my place. (ten minutes from eldo.) Unless the storm picks up again it will be climbable by weekend. I plan on climbing.

-Jon
Chris Sheridan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,625
Dougald MacDonald wrote: If I'm not mistaken, it's showing the line of Sister Sweetly
You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.
Dusty · · Fort Collins · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 210

Is it Diamond season yet...?

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485
Chris Sheridan wrote: You read my mind, Dougald. I'm just hoping its still in when I get back in town on the 29th.
Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?
Chris Sheridan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,625
Chris Plesko wrote: Is that the line to the far right of Kevin's picture?
I think so, but I've never climbed it. I looked for it years ago and even while looking at the face couldn't say I knew for sure where Sister Sweetly went. Like may routes, you might not know until you actually start up the thing. Here's my best guess drawn in on Kevin's photo.

Likely route of Sister Sweetly.
Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

I see one obvious chimney system that follows the described line midway up, but above and below there seems to be a lack of description.The Rossiter guide and Gillet guide both have very different descriptions of the route.

Dougald MacDonald · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2002 · Points: 725

I think that's it, Chris. Kevin's original photo shows it slightly more clearly, though it doesn't look like there's much or any real ice in there. But after the big dump last night? Maybe in a couple of days? Hmmm....

I don't know anyone who has climbed it, but I've also heard rumors that it can ice up completely. Then again, Bob Culp once told me he climbed Hallett Chimney when it was water ice from bottom to top. I'd like to see that!

The Park = Field of Dreams.

Buster Jesik · · Allenspark, CO · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 375

Ryan -

that picture is what would be the first pitch, above that I couldn't see.

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30

Anyone up there this past weekend? I'm going up there to hit Dreamweaver end of May and am curious as to the current conditions. Thanks!

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Was up in the park sunday and today but no info on Dreamweaver/Dutchman as I was at Solitude Lake and Emerald Lake. Will post pictures later. Another storm today/tomorrow so I guess we'll see what happens. I really want to climb the Notch couloir when it ices up.

beavs · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 250
North Face, Long's Peak - 5/16/10.

Here's the North Face 2 days ago
Kurt T · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 35
Frank Derabid · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

wow, that looks very snowy and wintery! I think it must be quite cold to climb up there right now. I think that skis would make for a more enjoyable outing than trying to climb with cold cold fingers! At least then you can schuss on back down!

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30

Anybody go up to Longs/Meeker this past weekend? Looking specifically for Dreamweaver conditions. What's going on up there?!?!!!111one

acouncell · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 190

I was guiding Martha's on Wednesday but v. high winds and some new, drifted snow made climbing and climbing conditions not very good. I wouldn't have recommended it in those conditions but have heard since then that it was "perfect" over the weekend. Strong winds again today here in Estes, snowing off and on since around 1pm here in town, can't even see the Park. Sure to be snowing more up there.

Air Alexy · · Washington, DC · Joined May 2010 · Points: 30

Is floatation needed at this point? I don't want to pack snowshoes or rent them, if it can be avoided.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

Seems unlikely to need float at this point. We managed without going past the Loch today. Hopefully someone will chime in for sure about Chasm.

Alan Ream · · Lafayette CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 5,170

I was up there Sunday 23rd (Martha) and snow shoes were not required, in fact the conditions were great - but I would get an early start - I made it back down to the trees by about 11 AM and already the snow above treeline was like mashed potatoes and there is alot of it. Have fun. Alan-

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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