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Your favorite non-hangboard training holds


Original Post
tscupp · · Englewood, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,425

So I currently have a nexus warrior hangboard and I don't care much for it so I'm looking for some new holds or possibly a better hangboard. I'm mostly concerned with training open hand strength and most hangboards seem to lack good pinches so I've been searching for that perfect pinch/sloper training grip. I'm looking for feedback on the following holds as training devices or what grip you've found effective. Though there are many pinches/slopers on the market, I find what would be ideal for training to be a much smaller field since I want the grip to be simple and have good texture.

I've looked at some of the egrips and I like the shape and design of:

Bubble
My concern with these is that texture might make them imprecise in training but that could also be negligible.

Loaves
Almost perfect but since I'll have to order doubles it will be a bit more expensive and some of the incut ones are useless for training.

Nicros - Infinity Hard Holds (sorry not a direct link)
Most likely what I'll get since the slopers look decent and the pinches are simple. It has the added advantage too of using it with the Infinity board for changing arm and wrist position.

But I still haven't found any sloper that I've been real impressed with for pure training. I've also checked out the slopeymon board from soill but it looks like the pinches are very close together. I'm hoping that by using holds rather than a hangboard I can make the shoulder position a little more ergonomical for training purposes.

As a side note, I'm also trying to find a good weight vest that can hold up to either 40 or 60 pounds for HIT training but that is less of a concern since hanging weights from the harness works just fine for the hangboard. Any suggestions?

low.key.og Ferreira · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 0
Will Anglin wrote:ETCH Pinches!
+1 On this.

If I were you, I wouldn't get the slopeymon board..its pretty disappointing. If you really want a new board, I would look into that new soill board...I can't think of its name...but it has two sets of good pinches and good slopers (much better than the nicros ones.) I haven't traines exclusively on one but I did a half dozen sessions on a friends.

For slopers, a horizontally situated bubble wrap hold might be good, just not very deep. If you are looking for a full palm sloper, I would look into some of the older voodoo holds
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,425

Read this

I would stay away from the bubles for all the reasons you stated. I would have trouble sending $120 plus tax to Nicros for those pinches. Might as well spend that on two setc of Etch or E-grips pinches, then you get all the other sweet pinches too.

Andy Librande · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2005 · Points: 1,865

I have the SoIll Blurr Board and found it to have a good mix of slopers and you can do a few solid pinches on it. Overall I usually been using it as a big hold on my climbing wall which has worked really well but I have not had my hands on the Cryptoboard or the Slopeymon from So-ill so I cannot give a direct comparison.

Also I believe it is slightly bigger than the slopeymon.

As mono said above spending that much on the Nicros Infinity holds doesn't seem very practical as you can easily put together 3 or 4 sets of holds from a number of companies for that same price.

tscupp · · Englewood, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 1,425

Awesome, thanks for all the suggestions.

I think I need to stew a bit more over whether I am in favor of the loaves or the etch pinches (leaning towards etch) now. The loaves really hit that wide pinch power but the etch ones look like they might double as good slopey crimps. I really liked that one voodoo sloper package but they are sold out so I'll have to wait a bit or search more.

Thanks again.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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