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Anyone trad climb without cams?


Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
Forestvonsinkafinger wrote: One lost arrow pulled from my dead grandfather's rectum upon autopsy was all I had for 10 years of climbing. During WW2 when climbing was prohibited, my grandfather swallowed the piton, which killed him. We used bowlines around each waist and simul-climbed with my mother's clothesline. we brought my father's sledge to drive the LA in every once in a while, which we linked with a piece of wire we found by the Baldpate. We couldn't afford slippers either, so we climbed barefoot.

I’m sure I will be forgiven for dusting off this gem and bringing it into the light.

Dana Bartlett · · CO · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 890

Not since 1978.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
Eric Moss wrote:My takeaway is to use cams only when nothing else fits, or if I really need something quick. 

I’d argue this conclusion isn’t warranted based on a data point of a single placement.

It might be more appropriate to determine why this particular cam started to pull in this particular instance.

Damp, dirty rock—likely contributing factor. I can’t tell from the video what other factors are contributing. 

You moved left, so perhaps all that happened was the cam rotated in the direction of pull, allowing the lobes a bit of travel.

You were gripped at the moment. I wonder if you would have had the ability here to place a passive piece—I’m doubtful.

Is it possible that in this instance, your fatigue restricted your ability to a) examine your cam placement and ensure the best seated position and b) extend the piece as you started to head left?

Fortunately for you, but unfortunately for the sake of analysis, you removed the cam, so there’s no telling if it would have held you. (I’m not saying I would have done differently.)
John B · · Calgary · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

I climbed with a 40 year old a few months ago who only used nuts and tricams

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 25
Eric Moss wrote: I love cams, but I was recently acquainted with their limitations in dirty, smooth rock.  The pull was rather sideways, too.  See for yourself, and let me know what you think: https://youtu.be/HgOl3tLn8aw

After the cam pulled, I set a pink tricam in there.  It held.  My takeaway is to use cams only when nothing else fits, or if I really need something quick.  I'm going to experiment with hex's more, for their potential to bite into dirty or wet rock.  

Good thing you resurrected a thread that's literally thousands of days old to let us know.  Also, plurals don't need apostrophes.

x15x15 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 205

Long, long, long time I ago, I met my buddy at Suicide for an after work sesh. Standing at the base of Flower of High Rank we both pull out ropes, 1" tubular alpine slings with biners, but No Gear.

Now Jack, my buddy, has been climbing since the dinosaurs and he explained how they did it back then. So, I did a free ascent of Flower and The Guillotine using knotted slings as pro.

I'm pretty sure being young and dumb made it fun. Nowadays I'd just hike back to the car, drive home, get the rack, and go back... duh!

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

People that like to trad climb without cams also like to tele ski on wooden skis and use condoms made from sheep intestines.

Jaren Watson · · Idaho · Joined May 2010 · Points: 2,395
don'tchuffonme wrote:

Also, plurals don't need apostrophes.

No, but contractions/abbreviations can and often do. 

Cobra Wrestlr · · Mary land · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 121

I always roll with the two biggest hexes. Any descent placement is bomber.
I always have people or my partner say something smerky about them. Every time i climb.
"Your not gunna sneak up on anyone"
"You actually use those things?"
"Why do you like those?"
"Do you trust them"

I just say they keep the bears n snakes away..

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 230

Yes, there are probably plenty of 5.4 climbers that climb without cams.

Thomas Jensen · · Phoenixville, PA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 50
Colin Simon wrote: Butterballs was done exclusively on nuts!


Thomas Jensen · · Phoenixville, PA · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 50

I was in Yosemite in 1996 or so and was targeting Butterballs as my goal for the week.  A climber named Jack Mileski (highbeam.com/doc/1P2-276211…) approached me and handed me three BD rocks and told me that this was all the rack I would need as he had just done it with said "rack"!  He was an amazing climber and a great guy.  What a shame......  Needless to say it took me a heck of a lot more than that to finally send it.  LOTS of cams as I recall........ guess that makes me kinda lame

PS  I can't figure out this damn quote thing!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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