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2009/2010 Colorado Ice Conditions


BCYoung · · Westminster, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

Climbed Jaws(RMNP)today. Left side is in. Upper section is in pretty good. You could hear quite a bit of water running behind the ice. A few thin spots. It is getting hacked out quickly but still a great day out.

jack roberts · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 0

Bridalveil Falls is in steep but solid shape. About WI5+.
Ingraham Falls is also WI5/5+ but is in thicker and more stable shape. Left side is IN.
The Fang (in Vail) has formed up and is connected. Probably a good idea to not top rope it for awhile.
My brief inspection of it makes me think it wil be OK to lead in a week or two but it would be better if top-ropers left it alone.
The Telluride area is really coming in well and should have a lot more ice than usual.........

Evan S · · Erie, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 510

Just got back from a ski/sled trip to Wolf Creek Pass, and while I didn't do any climbing this time, I scoped it out pretty good. The only thing I saw that I would consider in shape to climb was Alpha Male, although the top half was a big pillar instead of a sheet, and it looked really hard, probably 5+ or 6. All the other ice I managed to see was not fully formed or just looked soft and sketchy. The west side of the pass is looking much better than the east, Chain Station was a sloppy mess. If anyone has info that is contradictory, I would love to know.

Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65

Any word on Officer's Gulch conditions? How is the AVy danger up there? I have not been to summit county yet this season.

Rui Ferreira · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 869

Most routes in Officer's Gulch are in and avalanche danger is low (as of last Friday 1/1/10. There is minimal snow (< 5") on the approaches and also minimal snow above the climbs. Climbed the Shroud on Wednesday and it was in fat (3+, 4- conditions depending on the line).

Jason Killgore · · boulder, co · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 165

Climbed on the 2nd flatiron Monday morning. Call the Copps was not well formed, but we still found enough (sn)ice to fill a few hours before work.

video: zclipped.com/?p=120

Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,815

Yesterday, 1/8/10, Silk Road was in "okay" with less ice compared with photos on the site from 1/07. The bottom 150' was melting pretty decent. Mostly snice. Lots of smearing crampons on rock. Front point(s) took a beating. The left finish seemed fragile enough that my very experienced partner didn't hop on it. We finished right which was still challenging.

Kip on P1 fat snice.

P2 looks much, much fatter than it climbed.

Tom assessing the left finish.

The easy, upper part of P3.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470

We thought about giving NE face of Notchtop a run, but there appeared to be a ton of unconsolidated snow obscuring most of the ice pitches. I thought I could make out a fracture line from a recent avalanche, but it was hard to tell. In any case, we changed our plans and just hiked up Flattop for grins.

CAIC reported several avalanches in the Northern Mountains this week.

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Climbed Ingram falls near To-hell-u-ride yesterday. 2 hr approach with some avy hazard to top of climb. We rappeled in and climbed out in 2 pitches. 1st pitch was very steep and brittle with poor pro. 2nd pitch was excellent quality. Classic route!

Ingram Falls.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Nice, E

We had a blast around Ouray & Eureka, as well.

Here's to the breezes that blows through the trees'es
& freezes the ice way past our knees'es

Jason Gilbert · · Lakewood · Joined Nov 2002 · Points: 320

Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel?

Are they in, hows the hike?

J. Surette · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 30
Jason Gilbert wrote:Has anyone been out to the short ice climbs near Moffit Tunnel? Are they in, hows the hike?
Yeah we were up there about a month ago and the ice was pretty good. A little wet in the center. The approach is like 15 minutes. Can't beat that.
Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

BoCan lower falls are beat to death. I think you could leave the tools at home and still lead. Someone's funny OSHA line about the ladder is appropriate here.

Routes looked mighty thin too compared to historical pictures too.

Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65

I am going to officer's gulch this week-end.. Any one have an update on ice and avy conditions.

jbarnum · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 65

Martha this past Saturday was leaner than spring conditions. Little to no ice in the first two pitches, a body length on the third, none on the fourth and the finish had enough to take two screws. The snow was fun and consolidated in some areas, and a sugar, sloughing, mess in others. Still a fun outing.

To the party passed on the trail up, I owe you a six pack. Did not see you guys come up, probably for fear of being in the cross hairs. Smart move, you did not miss anything. Contact me through here for that six pack.

Third pitch.

No ice at the start.

Fourth pitch.
Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Good climbing with you Jim.

I personally was pleasently surprised by the amount of ice we found in Martha - I wasn't expecting any. But then again I like climbing steep snow. This was my first time on the route and I thought it was lots of fun. We experianced everything from good ice, to snice, unconsolidated snow, good styrofoam, and of course lots of fourth class moves on rotten rock.



Jim enjoying good styrofoam neve on the second pitch.



Jim following the fourth pitch, which was pretty thin but loads of fun.



The "crux" pitch which offered up some decent pick placements and fun stemming moves on the rock.



Just to say we did...



Good ice-bouldering was found on the decent down the camel Couloir.

Things actually looked pretty decent up there. The second pitch on Alexander's looked good, thin above that though. Columbine and Peacock were definately in, and the Loft ice is looking pretty damn good and the bowl above it a little less threatening.

Cheers.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485

How was the snow in the wide part exiting Martha at the top of the couloir?

Kevin Landolt · · Fort Collins, Wyoming · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 585

Chris,

The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.

Chris Plesko · · Westminster, CO · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 485
Kevin Landolt wrote:Chris, The exit was just easy snow climbing. Plenty filled in. I dug a quick hasty-pit up there and no slab was visible, it was actually quite consolidated and the traveres and decent of the Camel Couloir was pretty painless.
Thanks Kevin!
Mike McKinnon · · Golden, CO · Joined Aug 2003 · Points: 65
Officer's Gulch 1/17/10.

conditions were good this week-end.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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