Mountain Project Logo

BCC Dead Snag area?

Original Post
ColinP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Does anyone know that name of the crag in BCC between Dead Snag and Glass Ocean, but on the opposite side of the gully? It faces west. It's mostly heavily-bolted sport. The left side feels like 5.6 two-pitch, and the routes get progressively harder heading up hill. The far right routes have some nice cracks on P1 and typical quartzite on P2. I can't find this place in Ruckmans or on Mtn project? Thanks.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,960
ColinP wrote:Does anyone know that name of the crag in BCC between Dead Snag and Glass Ocean, but on the opposite side of the gully? It faces west. It's mostly heavily-bolted sport. The left side feels like 5.6 two-pitch, and the routes get progressively harder heading up hill. The far right routes have some nice cracks on P1 and typical quartzite on P2. I can't find this place in Ruckmans or on Mtn project? Thanks.
Redrum?

I've looked at it. Kinda looks ok. Fun?
paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

I don't know what it is called.

Those routes have gone up in the last two months. I was over on Steorts about a month or so ago on a Saturday and was watching them equip them.

That is about all I know - I don't know who was doing the work. 3 or 4 routes from what I could tell from walking over and looking. Fairly low angle.

PT

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Yeah, could be Rush, Redrum, or another number of named-but-no-topo walls listed in that area of the Ruckman's book. Bunch of those walls in that area.

ColinP · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 0

Might it be Geezer Crag? Anyway, the climber's left routes (lowest) are nice-enough 5.5-5.6 sport. My buddy did his first sport lead on the second boltline and appreciated a bolt every 6 feet.
The routes up gully(farther right) are best.
There's a super-smooth slab with two hand cracks curving right. I thought it should have been made a mixed route, as there's plenty of room for pro in most spots. I climbed the left, steeper crack and it felt 5.10ish near the bulge. P2 has a committing start because you can't see the first bolt. I placed 1 medium nut before stepping out right onto the next face. More fun, exposed climbing ahead near the arete to 2-bolt, rap-ring anchors (P2=5.7-5.8). Single 60M rap easily got us back to the gully slightly upcanyon from where we started.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Ah... could it be Talk Wall? Check that one out in Climbing the Wasatch. The cracks sound like what you are describing.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,960
springs wrote:Ah... could it be Talk Wall? Check that one out in Climbing the Wasatch. The cracks sound like what you are describing.
Nah, no two pitch bolted 5.6 routes on the Talk Wall. And, you can't reasonably get to the Talk wall from the Glass Ocean area.

Gandered at the Ruckman guide, and, its more than likely Redrum (just down hill). Both paintrain and I have seen the new routes up there, and, that matches the OP's description pretty well.

Cheers,
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,960
Boldontoprope wrote:It is probably the new Geezer Crag. I haven't tried it yet but it looked like some people were having fun on it a few weeks ago when I was at Glass Ocean.
Where might one find reference to the Geezer Crag?
Mark Sgt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 575

Yep, this is Geezer Wall. Myself and several friends have been working on this area for the past several months. We are just wrapping up a few things and plan on posting up route info end of next week.

Rockwood · · West Jordan · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 325

I was up on Steorts on August first and two older climbers passing by pointed out the start for us and said they were heading up further to work on a project they had going. From the top we thought we spoted them. Maybe that was Mark or maybe there's more than one group putting up routes up there.

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, UT · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,960

So, is the Geezer Wall to the left of Redrum, ie, left side of the Redrum Crag/Wall? See Ruckman guide for reference, especially the photo showing Dead Snag, Redrum, etc.

Cheers.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "BCC Dead Snag area?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.