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worst anchors ever....


MegaGaper2000 · · Indianola, Wa · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20
Wei-Ming wrote:In the winds, found this rapping off of Wolf's Head. They probably had a single 60m - we had doubles and made it down to a far superior rap station. Actually doesn't look too bad, if I had to I'd use it
Wait, I'm confused. If it didn't look too bad, how does it fit into the world's worst anchors thread?
kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 350






Some of the beautiful anchors to be found on the face of leaning tower below the traversing approach ledge.
Matthew Kennedy · · boulder, co · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 45

It Makers a pretty good anchor.

bonus anchor
Loren Trager · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 165
ian watson · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 240

^-- I think your system is kinda sketch, having the tagline go through your webbing is a noobish thing, just tie a 8 on a bight and put it on the quicklink and you will be fine.

Hmann2 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 30

Found this in a thread a few months ago.

Sketch
Yair Horowitz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 225
Hmann2 wrote:Found this in a thread a few months ago.
I love that there are two biners on that spaghetti can. But the main issue with the anchor is that the can is not redundant. They must have had a second can that they could have thrown in there as a backup. Cheapskates.

Gotta be careful, you know.
Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

3 nails as a rappel anchor on the Pawnee Buttes in NE Colorado.
NDTitanLady · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 305

dont get me wrong, it is a bomber anchor... but overkill much?

Ridiculous amount of webbing for rappel up in Tahquitz, CA
Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 945

On the first page of this thread there was a reply that had two photos.

The poster used this photo as a 'bad' anchor.

Very Bad Anchor

The poster then used this photo as the 'fixed,' now 'bomber,' anchor.
Not Much Better Anchor

Unfortunately, the 'fixed' anchor has a major flaw in it's design. It is bad practice to 'hitch' or fix the rappel ring in a single position, especially if it is an aluminum ring as is the case here. If you fix the position of the rappel ring it will wear much faster than if you leave it loose on the cord or webbing.

The correct way to 'fix' the anchor is to just pass the cord through the ring.
the Oracle · · Delphi · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30
Brian C. wrote: 3 nails as a rappel anchor on the Pawnee Buttes in NE Colorado.
no fucking way.... wow...
Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 736
A little rusty.
Ouch!
Hardware horror Show
Found in San Francisco
This one happened the first time they tried to clean the windows at a new building next to mine, all survived.
Look close at the last one. You can see the left support dangling and the right is pretty tweaked. One of the window washer suffered a broken arm and the other cuts and bruises.
Dingus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 55

This is a fun thread! I think this site deserves a place here

Jive-Ass Anchors

There are some real jive-ass anchors in this thread.

Brian Snider · · NorCal · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 736

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/108031891

Matt G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 160
Mark Lynch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 5

Posted this somewhere else before but was it was so bad it deserves to be in this thread.
Was climbing Moby Grape on Cannon some twenty years ago with a partner when we were joined at a belay ledge by the leader of a more "experienced" party of three. He puts in one Loweball and belays his partners up. We were horrified but not as much as they were. The argument that ensued was fun to watch. We gladly let them climb thru. Sorry no pics but you really should not need one.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,750
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:Unfortunately, the 'fixed' anchor has a major flaw in it's design. It is bad practice to 'hitch' or fix the rappel ring in a single position, especially if it is an aluminum ring as is the case here. If you fix the position of the rappel ring it will wear much faster than if you leave it loose on the cord or webbing. The correct way to 'fix' the anchor is to just pass the cord through the ring.
Maybe anyone who can't figure out how to rotate the ring around a bit should let someone else set up the rappel?
ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 248

Found this gem at the top of the east face of monitor rock on Independence pass

Anchor on east face of monitor

Sketch
Will Shaw · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 95
If you look closely you'l see that tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose.

I saw someone belaying his friends up a 5.7 approach to a crag on this anchor. Somehow he works as a guide. He wasn't working at the time, but it's scary that I asked about it and he thought it was bomber.

The tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose, and the nut in the lower leg is behind a loose block.

Good thing no one fell.
MojoMonkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 68
Will.S wrote: I saw someone belaying his friends up a 5.7 approach to a crag on this anchor. Somehow he works as a guide. He wasn't working at the time, but it's scary that I asked about it and he thought it was bomber. The tricam is placed backwards with the webbing folded over the nose, and the nut in the lower leg is behind a loose block. Good thing no one fell.
I hope the triaxial loaded carabiner and the linked non-locking 'biners are not SOP for the "guide" either.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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