Oak Creek Canyon

I've been told that Oak Creek Canyon is great for a high concentration of single pitch, easy-moderate trad routes. I want practice placing as much gear as possible, so the idea of tons of trad routes very close to one another is very appealing to me. Wondering if anybody can provide more info on the area, guidebook info, etc. Much appreciated.

Oak Creek Canyon has a basalt trad area called the Oak Creek Overlook located at the head of the canyon. A couple of older guides have info, Cheap way to die/guide to Northern AZ. A new guide is coming out with more info by Bloom/Wolfe.

The place I really enjoy more is the Oak Creek Waterfall; suited to 5.10 and above leads; lots of hand and finger cracks. The new guide will cover this area better. Cheap way to Die has some info.

The sandstone climbs are more widely spaced but great for plugging tons of gear!

the overlook.

nuff said.

As mentioned, The Overlook in Oak Creek Canyon is a place that has a high concentration of single pitch, easy-moderate trad routes. For what it's worth, it has a short 5 minute approach as well.

Along with Tim Toula's guides and info here on MP, there are two other books that have info on The Overlook:

Rock Climbing Arizona by Stewart M. Green
Weekend Rock by Lon Abbott

On the first visit to The Overlook it can be confusing figuring out the routes. The photos in the Lon Abbott guide can be helpful in this regard.

The grades at The Overlook are Syndicato Granitica grades which are a bit more stiff than equivalent Tahquitz/YDS grades. Long slings and/or static rope helps with anchors or top rope setups here as well.

Thanks to all, I saw the guidebooks online, but not sure how to get my hands on the one-page guide by Marty Karabin?

Go look up the Oak Creek Canyon\Overlook here.

Awhile back, I posted a lot of pics with route lines to a lot of the popular and obscure climbs.

I'd recommend Mint Jam (top is odd), Red Wagon, or Morning's Mourning as intro routes to the area. 5.8ish, easy to find, classic climbs.
I suppose if you're not a crack climber, they could seem like sandbags.

I always thought the ratings reasonable, but i grew up there so yetahey, they seemed consistent.

That said, last fall I went through there and did Mint Jam and thought it was steep and much harder than I remembered it.
I mean, I use to 3rd to class it and I was having to think about it.

Getting old and not climbing there much might have something to do with my rude awakening :-)

The Orange Out wall has a lot of great climbs from 5.8 to 11x.
Orange Out Direct is classic 5.9, as are Sparky and Answered.
The regular Orange Out is an often overlooked cool 5.8/5.9.

Morning After is a good stiff intro 5.10 as it's crux it's shorter and Always Been Crazy is a great 10+.

The wall is easy to find and park at and close to everything else.

Marty Karabin's guides are available at REI and cliffhanger gear shop at PRG (in arizona, not sure where you're at).