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LOST: Stuck Rope on Cloud Tower


Original Post
Luke Stefurak · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,327

I don't post often on MP.com much but stuck ropes seem to be a common theme this year.

Our Purple Beal Trail line got stuck on the final rappel (first pitch) on Cloud Tower. We left it fixed since it was late, dark and we didn't want to have an accident trying to retrieve it.

You could see evidence of other ropes that had been stuck in the past. It seems that there should be a better way to get down the final 200 feet than rapping the route. Any suggestions?

If anyone is able to retrieve the rope please send an email for a reward. It is currently stuck at the top of the 2nd pitch and fixed to the midway rap station on the 1st pitch.

Cheers,
Luke

beavs · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 250

A few years ago I had to chop a stuck rope on that rappel as well. It's been too long for me to remember the situation/possibilities enough to provide suggestions, but any reasonable improvement would get my vote.

Ian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 15

A few years ago, the team in front of us had to chop both of their ropes on the last rap. I think we avoided the problem by pulling the rope to the right.

Luke Stefurak · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,327

Bump?

susan peplow · · Joshua Tree · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,695

Luke, sorry to hear about your cord. Check the comments here which sounds like you can rap using a station to the right for that exact reason.

How did you find the route overall? How was that crux pitch?

Luke Stefurak · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,327

There are stations that lead down the right face from below the last pitch. The new Handren guide suggests rapping the face route (which we did with no problem) and then traversing a ledge to rap the first two pitches of the route. If there was a way to rap off the right side of the ledge that would be ideal. Since it was getting dark we choose to follow the directions, rapping off the left side of the ledge. Oh well.

The crux pitch was thin and fun. The first half is hard moves separated by good rests. After the foot holds run out you gotta keep moving so you don't pump out. The final pitch was quite strenuous and at the end of the day seemed much harder than the thin dihedral. I found it much harder than IC 10+. In comparison I easily onsighed the incredible hand crack but struggled not to fall on the final pitch of cloud tower.

Follow the link for an in depth trip report with gear beta.
dreaminvertical.wordpress.c…

Luke Stefurak · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,327

Good Karma for Xmas Bump.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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