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History of Sport Climbing?


chris deulen · · Castle Rock · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 1,700
Healyje wrote:Thanks, I appreciate it, and stand by every word there.
I think you just like being angry and bitter. Maybe it brings you comfort to some extent. If climbing had started out with bolts and was now evolving into trad with people no longer drilling but using pro instead you'd probably be complaining about the old ethic and how pure it was without all the clutter of new and expensive gear. "Ah, the good old days, when all we had to do was clip and climb."

You probably post on skateboarding websites too and lament about dogtown and how now it's all about the corporations, or surfing sites and how it used to be so pure.

I recommend you get lots of sun and maybe smoke a bowl or two.
Sam Lightner, Jr. · · Lander, WY · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 2,360

I'll say this again cus my joking around seemed to clutter it.
I believe the term sport climbing is German... I believe it was first being used in the early 80's by t he likes of WOlfgang G. and Kurt. The German term is Klettern Sport... I know that term predates our term of sport climbing.

Lanky · · Tired · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 255
Shawn Mitchell wrote:Strong post Julian. You probably have a head of steam going...better take your shirt off :)
Good point!

Clothing Status: unshirted (at work). And yes, it's pretty awkward.
Mikeco · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0
Sam Lightner, Jr. wrote: The Brits = does not apply... they are real men, everyone of them... including the women.
You know, I absolutely loathe Euro-bashing in general, and French bashing in particular. It's all so provincial.

But this one made me chuckle. :)
Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,331
Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: You know, I absolutely loathe Euro-bashing in general, and French bashing in particular. It's all so provincial. But this one made me chuckle. :)
There are only two things I hate: people who are intolerant of other cultures...and the Dutch.
Timber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

So basically, no single person in this thread has any freaking clue about the basis of the "sport climbing" moniker?

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,415
Jay Knower wrote: There are only two things I hate: people who are intolerant of other cultures...and the Dutch.
Jay,

Some of my favorite climbing partners are Dutch:

Irina Overeem Dutch Treat

Just because they speak English with an accent, and some of them have unpronounceable names...that's no reason to hate them! Italians, on the other hand...oops; never mind.
Mikeco · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0
Ron Olsen wrote: Jay, Some of my favorite climbing partners are Dutch: Just because they speak English with an accent, and some of them have unpronounceable names...that's no reason to hate them! Italians, on the other hand...oops; never mind.
Sweet-ass tied off knob in that pic!
Jay Knower · · Campton, NH · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,331
Bob D'Antonio wrote: Jay...I'm glad you didn't say Italians.
My Dutch line was basically the only good line from Austin Powers: Goldmember.

Sadly, I can't take credit for it.
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250
Timber wrote:So basically, no single person in this thread has any freaking clue about the basis of the "sport climbing" moniker?
Lighten up, Timber. Several posters have commented intelligently on the term's development. Sam may be right the Germans score the first documented use, but conditions almost certainly led to it emerging in multiple places about the same time. Healyje cites a Tom Frost essay. I recall an early 80's Climbing article entitled "A Different Sport" about Mark Hudon, Max Jones, the growth of 5.12 and how the gymnastic skills marked a radical departure from "traditional" climbing.

Even if the 4th Reich got there first, it's unlikely the Yanks just translated and appropriated the term. It got used and became popular because it fits.

There probably isn't a definitive answer. Several posters here started climbing before the term was heard, and watched it spread organically. There's no governing board or Daniel Webster of Climbing Vocabulary to pinpoint the copyrightable moment.

Edit: Though for historical context and scrupulous research, it's hard to beat Mike Lane's insightful post.
Mikeco · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0
Bob D'Antonio wrote: great art
Don't know about all the rest, but you definitely got this one right.
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250
Bob D'Antonio wrote: amazing food and our little grandmothers with facial hair.
...and these ones.
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250

Another thought... If Hemmingway observed there are only three true sports: mountain climbing, motor racing, and bull fighting, while all the rest are games--would Papa have called this branch of the sport "Game climbing?"

Joey Wolfe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,020

bitching about sport climbing reminds me of guys who ride loud obnoxious Harley-Davidson and then bitch about "kids" blasting rap music in there car. Let it go.

But back on topic,

If sport climbing is about movement over rock/the fun of it, then some traditionally protected climbs could be considered "Trad-Sport". Stay with me here.....T-Wall for example is not about adventure climbing ethic of exploring and getting to the top so much as just fun climbing. The routes are close together, have bolted rap/belay anchors(after the fire up top trashed a lot of trees), single pitch and most are safe if you want them to be(not all of them, though, gear still can pull and some are run out).

I guess what I'm getting at is climbing will out grow these terms 'sport' and 'trad', don't cling too tightly to your definitions. Bouldering is already doing that, look at some of the highballs being put up. I'd consider them free solos but KJ gets a bouldering award.

edit: i guess that was off topic as well, oops.

Timber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0

I blame Smith Rock for persevering and dictating the sport climbing moniker.

I think it is safe to say that Smith introduced sport climbing to the US.

Ron Olsen · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 11,415
Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: Sweet-ass tied off knob in that pic!
Kinda looks like a duck to me:

--- Invalid image id: 106030119 ---

...and now, back to the topic at hand...
Joey Wolfe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,020

Ron, thats a mallard not a duck!!!

no, i kidd. That is a badass horn!! I'm glad you got that pic. Very cool.

j fassett · · tucson · Joined May 2006 · Points: 130

Yep, Germans love sport climbing... and David Hasselhoff.

JF

Mikeco · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 0
Ron Olsen wrote: Kinda looks like a duck to me: ...and now, back to the topic at hand...
I think it may be the calcified remains of a peregrin falcon.
Shawn Mitchell · · Broomfield · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 250
Not So Famous Old Dude wrote: I think it may be the calcified remains of a peregrin falcon.
...frozen in terror and cardiac arrest when NSFOD disregarded a closure :)

Update: No, rumor is, it was planted by State Parks to justify permanent area closures.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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