I ordered a pair of the new 5X shoes from FiveTen. They told me they wouldn't be in until march but i put an order in anyway and asked them to send them when they came in. I got a call the next day that they had a pair in my size and were shipping them out. In a few days my new loves arrived. I tried them out in the gym and loved the fit but wasn't sure how they would be on rock. Two days later I was at Rumney for a nice February in New England day of cragging on routes form 5.10 to 5.12d. They were just what i thought they would be, My favorite shoe ever.
I've been climbing for over 15 years and tried a good number of shoes but my favorites have come to be the Moccasym and the Anasazi. The 5X is like combining the better parts of these two shoes to make a super shoe that has it all. The front is like The moccasym which is awesome in cracks and low angle face climbing. the unlined leather is like the Moc as well (buy them way small they will stretch just like the moccasym). They advertised lined leather but they told me they were unlined when i talked to them. The heel is like the new Anasazi heel and the velcro strap in the middle gives you support through the midsole where you needed it in the maccasym but couldn't get it there for making it better for steeper and crimpy routes where you need to edge (this was the downside to the old Moccasym. I always bought my Mocs super tight so when they would stretch they wouldn't get too loose but the first few times out with them it would be a bitch to get them on and off. The zipper helps with this issue by allowing you to put your foot in before zipping up tight and strapping up your velcro. Oh yeah the price is OK as well clocking in at a midrange $125.00.
The only downsides i would say are minor. I feel a lump on the outer middle of the shoe that is a little uncomfortable when walking (but why would you be walking right) but i don't feel any discomfort while climbing. The stretch factor could be an issue for some since it wont keep the exact same fit forever, this might be different if they decide to make it lined like the website says. and finally they aren't a super aggressive shoe so if you are in to shoes like v10's and Solutions these might not be agro enough for you.
Over all I see the 5X as my new all-arounder. Tighter pair for hard sport routes and slightly less tight for all day trad I'm super psyched to see what else they can do.
WOW, great story and terrific review. I liked how you gave the differences of the shoe and put it to use for day to day climbing. I consider myself an OK climber but those super extreme boots have always been too much for me on the pain factor.
Personally I love my Moccasyn's and Siren's (great all around gal shoe) and now I'm looking forward to 5X.
You did a nice job with the description~thanks for taking the time to write it up.
Five-ten is hard to beat! Always pushing for new and better designs and the leader in sticky rubber. God Bless Charles Cole III.