Stoppers and Hexes

Besides the size ranges being different with the hexes going larger, what makes one better than the other in a given situation if you have one of each in roughly the same size?

My understanding is that they are both good for non-parallel sided cracks, or cracks that constrict towards the rock surface.

Are they interchangable if they both fit the crack with the choice a function of what you have on hand at the moment? Thanks

I use then in entirely different situations. Stoppers for the small stuff, hexen for the big stuff. Thus I tend to use only the mid and large-size hexes. My wife, on the other hand, loves the small hexes. YMMV. Like Mike, I usually find stoppers a bit easier to place, but that may be because the cracks are smaller and it's easier to see where the fit isn't perfect; with a big fist crack, any imperfections in your placement are obvious!

I'm trying to expand my rack with a few hexes and have a question. What are the pros/cons of slung hexes vs. wired hexes?

JmH wrote: My understanding is that they are both good for non-parallel sided cracks, or cracks that constrict towards the rock surface.

Not that hexes are much used these days, however they can be used in parallel sided cracks. This might be easier to see in the larger sizes. I carry four hexes on my rack 6-9 and though they are usually placed in a slotting manner they can be made to cam in parallel cracks.

Justin Dansby wrote:I'm trying to expand my rack with a few hexes and have a question. What are the pros/cons of slung hexes vs. wired hexes?

IMO the smaller sizes the wire is better then becomes pointless in the larger sizes. I used to have a set of original hexes and the first 3 had wire (very handy for reaching up to slot one in a pin scar) the rest were on perlon. I have used the larger sizes on wire and fond the wire to be in the way when placing them as cams. I would only carry 6-9 hexes as they seam to be the easiest to use.

I have a full set of hexes and only ever use the 3 largest sizes.
For anything smaller my experience has been that stoppers/nuts are easier to place, and there's no significant weight difference.

But for the 3 biggest hexes, I use those on occasion to avoid having to carry any/more cams in the BD 3-4 range. The weight saving is pretty real. (And when I first started leading trad, I didn't have larger cams at all.)

My hexes are wired, but that seems more personal preference. I guess wired would be more durable?

A good friend of mine gave me a full set of Wild Country Dyneema slung hexes. I intermingle the smaller ones with my bigger stoppers just to have variety and redundacy in those sizes. I keep the 3 largest ones on their own biner and only rack them when I know I do not have enough active pro in that size range. Mostly I just like the sounds they make when they knock against my commielots. It's like my own personal Chinese new year.

Tim McCabe wrote:though they are usually placed in a slotting manner they can be made to cam in parallel cracks.

I think I understand this but could someone explain? Thanks

JmH wrote: I think I understand this but could someone explain? Thanks

In my humble opinion, hexes are the most elegant piece of climbing gear ever invented.



(Photos courtesy of the online retailer Spadout)

Ahhh...the days before the SLCDs....The big Hexcentric was it. Nowadays, I keep two on my rack, being a #7 and #9 (I think, or is it #6 and #8). They are slung with a double length piece of webbing (pulling the Hex through 1/2 way allows it to hang fine from my gearsling or harness) and use them only occasionally. One purpose I suppose I primarily keep them for, is that if I ever climbed anything hard enough that I might have to bail off from, leaving one of them is alot cheaper than a cam of similar size (both fiscally and mentally). Never really put the smaller ones to use, as the previously mentioned stoppers were what I was more at ease with.

I use stoppers in the smaller range and carry some larger hexes to suppplement my rack. On alpine routes I'll just bring large hexes and small nuts for a light rack. Also, I wouldn't bother with the Black Diamond hexes (or any ones with all straight sides), which really require some work to get in solid. The Wild Country hexcentrics have curved sides which make for super bomber placements. The placements I get with them are really confidence inspiring - even more so than cams in my opinion.

"i got a fever and the only cure is more cowbell."

I love my hexes. I have the wild country on slings and they are awesome.

Another benefit to the slung hexes vs the wire is that the slung hexes can be used as slings. On long pitches this has come in very handy for me.

I dont carry small hexes any more- I like tri-cams

I carry 3 of the hand and fist sized hexes on some routes. They seem to work great in some areas (Vedauwoo and Castle rock) and are mostly useless in others (Lumpy and Eldo). I think the smaller ones are best for wind chimes.

I tend to find that small hexes are easily replaced with tricams as are large nuts. Plus tricams are more versitile. But more to the subject I tend to use large hexes or nuts 1-8 Wild Country at belay stations where I can use passive gear at a good stance and save my cams for the technical climbing.

boardline22 wrote:" more cowbell."

Don't fear the reaper!

Richard Radcliffe wrote: In my humble opinion, hexes are the most elegant piece of climbing gear ever invented. (Photos courtesy of the online retailer Spadout)

I like stuff that is simple but functional..I was thinking of going with stoppers and hexes forever

Does anyone know of a link or source for a discussion of the evolution of pro? I'm kind of a history buff Thanksto everyone that has responded. JmH

Richard Radcliffe wrote: In my humble opinion, hexes are the most elegant piece of climbing gear ever invented.

Name another piece of gear you can throw above your head like a grappling hook and effectively protect yourself.

Hmmm

Wild country's or BD's

what do you all say. I like the idea of the wire on the BD's for placing from below but the curved hex sounds easier to cam into place

Hell yea bro... I did that on Bushes when the bottom of it was filled with ice. Worked like a charm!!!

JmH wrote:Hmmm Wild country's or BD's what do you all say. I like the idea of the wire on the BD's for placing from below but the curved hex thingy sounds easier

Wild Country isn't the only maker of curved hexes. I have a set of Metolius curved, and they're wired, not slung. I like mine, but since they're the only ones I've ever used, I couldn't give you a comparison with the slung hexes.

JL