Gordons Hangover: is the crack bigger now??


Original Post
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,772

Curiuos if anyone else has noticed this. After pulling over the final roof on Gordon's Hangover last Monday, I noticed that the crack was thin hand, where I swear it used to be fingers. I seem to recall placing either a small TCU but no bigger than a #1 friend to protect the move (placement of gear being over the edge and past the roof).

I wonder if the freeze/thaw of this season has widened the crack? Also wonder if the whole flake forming the right side of the route is destined for the same fate as Old Reliable, Catalyst, the first pitch of the Great White Icicle, etc.

Speaking of which, anyone know if Nuke the Whales fell off too? Right side of the last pitch on the Pentapitch Buttress has spalled off, in case anyone hadn't noticed...(right above the ledge above the belay on Sasquatch).

Amazing! That nature is a mother...

Might be prudent for folks playing around on the thinner, flake-like formations in LCC especially to be cautious about the possibility that our wide ranging freeze/thaw temperature swings may have loosened things up a tad.

Watch yer topknots!

Tea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215

Hey Brian...are you sure that's new?

I swear I saw what looked like a fresh scar over there last summer.

By the way...we still need to hook-up sometime...I have a blue ice black gold packet for you.

Stan Pitcher · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 205

Heard something about a loose block above the bulge,  last week when we were starting up Touch Up.  They had wanted to trundle it but couldn't because there were people at the base. This was same day as El Cap rockfall was reported so flake on Touch-Up was kinda spooky.  

Also on FB Utah Climbers group there was a report recently about rockfall in the Green A gulley.  "So, it's unclear to my group and I, what exactly happened... but right before dark last night, a massive boulder fell from the top of Green A gully. The result was totally awe inspiring and terrifying. The loudest explosion I had ever heard upon its impact, and shrapnel pelting everything in the gully. I'm so glad no one was injured or killed. Was anybody in here up at After the Fall or around that area, that knows what happened?"   Not sure if this was reported on here.   Careful out there!

apross · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 2,220

Hey Brian, if your talking about the thrutch move at the top its been a #2 friend placement, thin hands move as long as I can remember.  I did it just a few weeks ago, seemed the same to me. Stop scaring everyone;-)


Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 160

Brian and Andrew... Please don't confuse us with antiquated cam sizes.

paintrain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 75

I think it has gotten bigger, but it has been slowly progressing over the lat 10 years.  

Although, your hands and fingers might have gotten smaller due to your domestication as well.

PT

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 13,772
Tom Hore wrote:

Brian and Andrew... Please don't confuse us with antiquated cam sizes.

Dudes...my original post is antiquated...10 years ago!

That whole big flake thing is gonna spall off someday...

Boissal · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,300

Can't wait til it eats a gold camalot and turns into a locker hand jam so I don't have to flail around every time I pull the bulge...

That whole area is full of detached monsters which are welded in place until they aren't. What about the massive flake you mantle and traverse on for the last few moves of Touch Up? Or the giant arrow-head block to the right of the Gordon's undercling flake, just to the right of the G Direct seam? That one is directly in the rappel line and seems to be perched on its bottom end which about 6" wide. Hopefully it doesn't skewer anyone if it comes off. Unless it's the fat GreenA squirrel of course...

LccClimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20

Last I climbed it (last fall) I placed a BD .75 right after the last crux bulge. Would be a bummer if that thing came down. 

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

We need to send tennismouse up there to clean that stuff up ala Meat Puppets. 

We’ll lose some classics, but maybe we’ll regain some face climbing in the area   

Boissal · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,300
Rob T wrote:

We need to send tennismouse up there to clean that stuff up ala Meat Puppets. 

We’ll lose some classics, but maybe we’ll regain some face climbing in the area   

Be it with a leaf blower or just with his heft, he will clean the route of any potential looseness. 

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 465

I get worried when he asks to borrow my 6 foot prybar. 

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 160

Good then we can call it Gordon's Fellover.

Besides "Fourth and Inches" is the latest rage for a warm up these days.

LccClimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 20
Tom Hore wrote:

Besides "Fourth and Inches" is the latest rage for a warm up these days.

I'm stealing this for my next Schoolroom rap area route. 

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,970

Nuke the Whales did have some rock fall, although it wasn't recent. To start the crux, you used to be able to shuffle your feet along a nice clean crack, now that's gone.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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