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Big Wall Ascension Device

Original Post
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Well, I guess I'll be the first to post in the Aid Climbing category.

While up at Evans last summer, we hitched a ride from what we suspected was a flatlander tourist, but turns out was a river guide & occasional bigwaller. So we talked about climbing, of course. He had mentioned to me a device that was getting some use (in Yosemite??) that involved fixed-line ascension. It's a device that allows for auto-hauling w/ (I believe) some sort of clutch engagement. Interesting...

There is a thread on SuperTopo about a device:
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…

also a device spec'd out:
bonanzaproducts.com/specifi…

The implications to quicker big wall work is evident (a huge advantage in reducing workload). Maybe El Cap in under an hour?

But with ethical or legal regard, is this motorizing a wilderness/backcountry experience?

As the device is not used to lead (only for seconding & hauling), is there any ethical effect to clean aid climbing or time establishment for a route?

Anyone ever used or heard of a device like this?

Dustin Wildermuth · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 200

First I have ever heard of "the device". People can do what ever they want to get up a wall but I wouldn't feel right using something like that. That's just me.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

Don't know if you noticed, but the battery is only good for 500 ft, and that is on a 12.7mill static. The batteries alone would weigh close to 80 pounds, plus the device. Plus you still have to get the rope up for someone to follow, and when is the last time you heard of a speed ascent where the leader towed a huge static along for his second? I do not think that this device would enable any faster ascents than those currently being done with human power.

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,197

It would be sweet for hauling while aid soloing though.....I've always hated hauling. Maybe if you could make a haul bag with built-in solar panels you could recharge the battery as you climbed. Then maybe you could add a parachute and let the piggy take a ride when you got to the top. I guess that might not be so good for your 9k hauler though....

Tang · · SD · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0

I'll bet its a bee-atch passing knots.
:-)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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