Tips for moving fast on multi pitch climbs

David K wrote:

Care to explain?

Gunks was exactly where I saw a number of people stop using gear slings, because of roofs. Was my home crag for many years.

What is to explain?  I climbed there, used a gear sling, had to climb many roofs, never had any issues.  

jackscoldsweat wrote:

, but I had a strong experienced climbing friend recommend NOT organizing the cams in any particular order on a sling. Taking into account that he was very familiar with his gear and it's 'color' scheme in relation to the cam sizing. It was also important to remember that he was climbing often and therefore able to size up / visually measure cracks and protectable features quickly and easily. Knowing what color/size cam to look for on the sling. It worked well for him. 

I get this. One size does not fit all for climbing. Personally I like to be very organized. But I know plenty of people who revel in the chaos. I’ve seen friends workshops that are a huge mess but when they need a wrench they know right where it is. Whatever works for you is best. 

I use a gear sling more often than not. I went about 5 years or so (yes, older trad dad here) never using one then started again. The main reason is I don’t like the weight of the gear pulling my harness down. But it’s also great when leading blocks and each person has one and you can just swap the empty one for the full one. If it’s hot, or I only need a single rack I go off the harness. 

Unless its a squeeze  chimney  i put my gear on the harness and the slings, draws on a sling.

Those of you saying no gear sling - do you never use one or only when leading (IE does your follower use one)? That 'follower uses a sling' setup makes the transition so much faster even if it's annoying to climb with the gear sling flopping around.

I guess this has turned into 'Hey trad climbers, what are your logistical preferences'  

Jeff J wrote:

What is to explain?  I climbed there, used a gear sling, had to climb many roofs, never had any issues.  

You're on a roof, hanging with your body horizontal, trying to place gear. Gravity pulls down, so your gear is hanging in space behind you. How do you reach your gear?

This illustrates the problem nicely:

Christian Hesch wrote:

Serious question, does anyone use a gear sling???

Me, almost always---maybe not on horizontal roofs.

And I think having the second clean everything onto a sling (no organizing required) is better than having the hand over the rack piece by piece from their harness.

Are we talking about slings, gear slings, or a double "backpack style" slings, like the Metolius or Misty Mountain Big Wall slings?

I prefer to pick the gear off the 2nds harness while they are restacking the rope when i lead ice in blocks. Only one set of hands   touches it so less chance of dropping stuff and I can get it organized my way while they are taking care of another task. 

Nathan Doyle wrote:

Are we talking about slings, gear slings, or a double "backpack style" slings, like the Metolius or Misty Mountain Big Wall slings?

I got a Metolius Multi Loop Gear Sling as a gift, used it for a while (it came with another 'side' with just one loop that clips on, so it could be a double sling but I only used that side for a couple wall/aid climbs, and removed it for most climbing), then I didn't use it at all for a while. One of my partners showed up years later with the exact same sling. We used his for a day and I realized I liked my old gear sling after all and started using it again. I like the multi loop design because with plain single loop ones everything is pulled to the bottom and things in the middle are hard to get out. 

I have a few 12mm slings that I use as temporary gear slings if needed. If I do a long easy climb and have the rack on my harness, I like having a 12mm sling to carry the rack down on the descent so it's not pulling my harness down while I hike. Most of my slings are 8mm but those suck for gear slings since they cut into your shoulder.

If you pinkpoint everything you don't have to rack anything.

Follow me for more recipes. 

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

You know, gravity still acts upon a gear loop the same as it does a sling..

I have gear loops on the front of my harness, which limits how far the gear can swing behind me. The gear on these loops is always in reach.

also, the photo you posted negates your own point, since it appears they are using a sling.

They haven't placed any gear in the roof, perhaps because they can't reach their gear. They also have gear on their harness, so perhaps they've put the gear they plan to place on the roof, on their harness, and the other gear is on the sling. Perhaps they are learning the hard way that I am right. But the fact is, I don't know the climber's intent or whether they're able to place gear in that picture. And neither do you.

The point of the picture was to illustrate that the gear on the sling is behind the climber, out of reach. How does the climber reach the gear on their sling in this picture?

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Probably with their hands.

You know, if you don't understand the question, you aren't obligated to answer! Ignoring you now.

David K wrote:

How does the climber reach the gear on their sling in this picture?

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Probably with their hands.

Oh! So that's the third hand I keep hearing about! Is it another human hand grafted on their back? I've heard that muscle bound body builders can't wipe their own ass, a third hand would be great for them too!

David K wrote:

You're on a roof, hanging with your body horizontal, trying to place gear. Gravity pulls down, so your gear is hanging in space behind you. How do you reach your gear?

This illustrates the problem nicely:

I used a metolius sling that attached in two places to keep it from sliding around.

To keep a gear sling from swinging too far backward or forward, you can use a biner to pin the sling to a harness gear loop. 

That Metolius sling seemed super popular 10+ yrs ago - but I haven’t seen one in a long time.

A single padded sling for the follower is a legit option, IMO, especially for blocks and while wearing a pack.

Dave K - which route at the Gunks is that photo - and you’ve done it?  Lol.

I was mentored by an old Gunks climber. He swore by shoulder slings. In fact my first lead on gear involved a chest rig - pretty sure it was for aid.

I used to climb with the metolius one but it seems they all fell out of favor several years back.

I occasionally still wear a 3/4 inch sewn runner for the sake of handing off cleaned gear. Plus it doubles as a load bearing sling for other purposes. IE PAS , small anchor or extending a placement.

Having a dedicated padded sling seems like too much faff - maybe it’s useful for Alpine climbing where your racking things over a jacket. 

James W wrote:

That Metolius sling seemed super popular 10+ yrs ago - but I haven’t seen one in a long time.

I'm still using mine. Much preferred over harness racking.  The only thing on my harness is draws, nut tool, belay stuff.

David K wrote:

You know, if you don't understand the question, you aren't obligated to answer! Ignoring you now.

Hell yeah!!! You tell em  brahji!!!

Tuolumne Climber wrote:

To keep a gear sling from swinging too far backward or forward, you can use a biner to pin the sling to a harness gear loop. 

Shhhh, quiet! You're just stirring the pot...