CRG/Bucks Bar; updates and upgrades on Guttenberger Wall

After discussing it with dozens of people over the last 5 years some friends and I got over to Guttenberger wall to replace some bolts and we ended up making a few changes that I wanted to update everyone on. 

TL:DR: Lichen Us is rebolted, Grandpappy is retro bolted, anchor added for raps with a single 70m and a handline is in place on the scary rock hop. 

Lichen Us. Great climb that is very clean dispite the name. We replaced all of the aging bolts bolt for bolt. Some pretty bad old bolts including the worst quarter inch bolt I have ever seen. It appears to have broken on installation. 

Grandpappy: Originally the plan was to just replace the bolts, but after reading the entry on MP from Bob Branscomb (one of the FA party) I decided to reach out and see his thoughts. He gave us his blessing to add more bolts. We protected what he described as a 5.0 traverse from grand central station. I think most people would consider it 5.6 now. A slip toward the end would have sent you into the river rocks. On the pitch after the traverse we added a few bolts as well as replacing the 44 year old bolts, total of 5 now iirc. On the final 50m pitch which originally had 3 bolts for each variation the left variation has 9 bolts and the right has 8. Stellar friction pitch highly recommended. If you want to feel as bad ass as the FA party pick three bolts and spend 20 minutes at stance thinking about what it would have been like to hand drill before you clip the bolt, ignore the rest of the bolts. 

New rap station: After lots of discussion with anyone who would engage, I made the decision to add a rap station to facilitate rappells with a single 70M. I added 2 bolts with quick links and chains next to the awesome wire head bolt thing on the final pitch of Lichen Us. This facilitates a rap from Grandpappy and Lichen us. From Guttenberger direct the rap line is also accessible if you decide to skip the last dirty run out pitch and head for the anchor at the top of Lichen Us. 

New hand line: After tossing around a bunch of options, we opted to install 2 hand lines on the river crossing. I really wanted to install a removable tyrolean, but the hand line is much lower profile, just not nearly as cool. In my opinion the handline makes the crossing feel reasonable and not the death defying stunt that it can be. Don't let the hand line stop you from doing the jump across if you want to. 

The purpose of this post is to inspire some people to get on those mostly forgotten routes on Guttenberger. In my opinion they are great routes that are well worth doing. Also more traffic will keep them clean for when I want to climb them. 

amazing work.. thanks!~`

This is awesome! Thanks for the hard work and excited to clip good bolts on these routes finally

Thank you!!!!

That's yeoperson's work right there, thank you.

Thank you!!

Thanks, Bobby! More excited to do these routes now. 

Gotta come down and check it out after my leg heals up!