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Joshua Tree OW

Original Post
Zack Smith · · Joshua Tree · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55

What are some of your favorite 5.10 to mid 5.11 OWs in the park? Especially harder chimneys.

I’ll start the list with Comfortably Numb, One Armed Giant, Centurion, kamikaze.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

Between a Rock and a Hard Place

Russ Walling · · Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted… · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,216
Zack Smith wrote:

What are some of your favorite 5.10 to mid 5.11 OWs in the park? Especially harder chimneys.

I’ll start the list with Comfortably Numb, One Armed Giant, Centurion, kamikaze.

Go here:  http://widefetish.com/pages/route_beta.html


one armed giant is pretty cool… not a whole lot of actual chimney for any great length going on out here though.  What ones have you done?

Zack Smith · · Joshua Tree · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Russ Walling wrote:

Go here:  http://widefetish.com/pages/route_beta.html


one armed giant is pretty cool… not a whole lot of actual chimney for any great length going on out here though.  What ones have you done?

I’ve gotten most of the JT routes on your list as well as some inverts like Maneater and Inquisition, with the exception of the routes around the Pinto Basin. Hoping to get poodle boy this week.

Russ Walling · · Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted… · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,216
Zack Smith wrote:

I’ve gotten most of the JT routes on your list as well as some inverts like Maneater and Inquisition, with the exception of the routes around the Pinto Basin. Hoping to get poodle boy this week.

Bitchen… have you been out to the Throbbing Gristle yet?  How about flares, like 29 Palms?  Emotional Rescue should be on your list too.  Oh… and Castaways.

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 25

6 Pack Crack and Jumar of Flesh!

Zack Smith · · Joshua Tree · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Russ Walling wrote:

Bitchen… have you been out to the Throbbing Gristle yet?  How about flares, like 29 Palms?  Emotional Rescue should be on your list too.  Oh… and Castaways.

I haven’t been out to Throbbing Gristle yet but I love flares. I’ll add emotional rescue to my list.  Hopefully, it’s as full value and exciting as castaway. Thanks for the beta!!

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

Moving to montana

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1,967

You gotta do Throbbing Gristle! 

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 835

Fisticuffs a offwidth?

For most climbers I would say a hand jam crack with maybe 1 or 2 arm bar moves unless your a extremely small person.

Darren Westby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 131

Came across this on geology tour road. 30-40 degree overhang. Would probably put up a good fight 

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1,967

Earl Struggs

William Leventhal · · Calabasas · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 419

Innervisions

Haber Chimney- a sport bolted chimney

B Donovan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

Surprised to see no mention of Firewater Chimney on The Arrowhead. Has bolts though, so maybe not the true flavor you’re after.

Edit - maybe a little easy for your list

Zack Smith · · Joshua Tree · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
William Leventhal wrote:

Innervisions

Haber Chimney- a sport bolted chimney

I always wondered what the name of those chimneys at split the summit blocks on Duckwaddle Dome were. I’ll have to keep looking to find Haber.

Thanks for the list guys. This’ll keep me busy for the rest of the winter

William Leventhal · · Soul Cal · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 32
Zack Smith wrote:

I always wondered what the name of those chimneys at split the summit blocks on Duckwaddle Dome were. I’ll have to keep looking to find Haber.

Thanks for the list guys. This’ll keep me busy for the rest of the winter

Haber Chimney is over near Meteor Crack in the Cap Rock area. It's in the Miramontes' Joshua Tree sport climbs book. It has 5 bolts I think.

Innervisions has no gear unless you have huge cams (11-13") or tube chocks but is very secure.

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 1,967
Ryan Never climbs wrote:

if you go out to bird beak be sure to check out the cool triangular chimney in the center! 

It's called Totally Tubular. And it is... Totally tubular!!!! Way fun 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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