Is it ok to add rap rings to existing bolts?
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There's a spot I climb at about twice a week that just has hangers with no rap rings. It's 100% a TR route and the walk down isn't a huge deal, but rapping is way faster. Would it be in bad taste to order high quality climbing rated quick links and rap rings to add to an existing set of bolts? |
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Depends on the locals. Most areas would think that you were doing a public service, but locals at some areas might steal your gear because you can walk off. If there is nobody to ask, I would equip one route and see what happens. |
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Ward Smith wrote: I hadn't really considered it, but ran into someone who had chopped 2 unsafe bolts last night. He was rebolting them and planned to add rap rings and it occurred to me the route I like climbing doesn't have them. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. |
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If you know the route that was being re-equiped, that person maybe commented or edited the mountain project page for the route. I would reach out to them because they may have a discount (if you buy stuff from REI it will cost you like $20 when it should cost like $7) on gear and would share the ethic in the area with you. I have been avoiding rap rings because if someone lowers and the hangers are not close enough it causes awful rope twist and alternative anchors are just as expensive and better for everyone. But good on you for trying to contribute and rap rings are better than nothing! |
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Stainless quicklinks, stainless rap rings, and red loctite. Someone will have to really want them removed to take them off. |
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I F wrote: Bears noting that one should find out (if possible) if the hangers are stainless or plated steel. then match the type of metal in the quicklink to the hanger. (ie: don't put stainless quick links on a plated steel hanger or vice versa) |
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Kevin DeWeese wrote: Yeah, this is actually super important as these cliffs are near the ocean and galvanic corrosion is a serious problem with any mixed metals here! |
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If the top is easily accessed, an expensive stainless rap set up may get stolen. Or it may get removed because someone doesn't like it there. Go with an inexpensive zinc plated 5/16" quicklink attached to either a single 3/8" chain link or 3 chain links (if the bolts are further apart) for each bolt. If the hardware disappears, you are only out a few bucks. If it stays for a few years, it can always be replaced inexpensively with the same setup or a more expensive SS station can be placed. |
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Jennifer Raven wrote: Well then I think they could be using titanium. The amount of galvanic corrosion caused by a mixed metal with a quick link would be pretty minor to the bolt and hanger. The quick link made of plated steel would look terrible in quick time however. I would still ask someone who puts bolts in in your area what you can/should do. If the anchor is pretty much on flat ground past the edge of the top of the cliff rap rings wouldn't be ideal. |
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Are you talking about Rocklands at Cerro Cabrillo? |
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M Alexander wrote: Close, ridge park across the valley. I ran out of replies lol. |
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I am no authority on the area, but I do not think anyone would notice or care. It is an old quarry after all and already covered in bolts for climbing and slacklining. |
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Park Ridge Rock is a quick and easy walk-off (two minutes?). I don't think anyone would care if you added rap rings, correctly, but it won't save any time when you consider the time it takes to thread the rope through the rings. Unless you intend on toproping through the rings, which you shouldn't do! Which route had bolts removed? Edit: This is a 30 - 40' tall rock. https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105737172/park-ridge-rock |
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FrankPS wrote: Crespi Critter right up the center. Like I said it's not a huge deal I was just curious what the general stance is towards adding something like rap rings. That downclimb is a little hairier at night tbh, idea was just to add some rings just for rapping. I always sling and equalize my top ropes directly from the anchor. |
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Kevin DeWeese wrote: If there's any doubt, use plated steel quicklinks and rings. If the bolts are stainless steel and the quicklinks are plated steel the galvanic corrosion will affect the visible quicklinks and rings where they can be replaced if they become unsafe (unlikely, but possible). The other way around, the quicklinks will stay nice and shiny while eating the bolt away (where you can't see, and much harder to replace). I usually keep a set of quicklinks and rings in my pack to add to climbs that don't have a proper setup. If someone takes them... oh well, they'll no doubt put them somewhere else anyhow. |