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What is the most inconsistent rock quality that glue-ins can realistically protect?

Original Post
316 SS Wedgie · · Nowhere in This Timeline · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 64

Howdy y'all.

Recently found a series of small (30-40ft) schist outcroppings. They are fairly solid, I rapped down one line and pulled as many loose crimps and chunks off as I could, yielding a line that I am confident is free of any major choss. The rock is layered such that there are some very solid bands 1/4-1/2" thick with some fairly solid but very porous layers between that are <1/8" thick. The outcrop is bedded such that most of the climbing is perpendicular to the layers, so bolts would go in parallel to the layers. I regret to say that my dumbass forgot to take pictures which I know would be more helpful than my description.

So my question is whether glue-ins (specifically twist leg bolts) could be expected to be strong enough in this material?  As a second question out of curiosity, what is the worst rock you've seen glue-ins places into?

David Morgantini · · London, United Kingdom · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 5

This seems like a pretty reasonable assessment: https://www.gebro-verlag.de/klettern/EU/D/Allgaeu/OA/Bolting%20Conglomerate.pdf

I feel like if you went 300mm you could pretty much bolt anything.

316 SS Wedgie · · Nowhere in This Timeline · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 64

Thanks for the link David, that was helpful and inspired a little bit of confidence. However, not a direct transfer to my situation as I'm more concerned about the integrity of the layers, and potential failure based on bolting parallel to the layers.

Tradif(b)an, don't you have a pot to go stir?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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