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Butterfly Bend

Original Post
NathanB · · Glenwood Springs · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

Anyone use the Butterfly Bend to join two ropes for a rappel?

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

I use it quite a bit with a figure-8 or double fisherman trapped in the loop. Easy to tie, pulls flat, easy to untie. It's a lot bulkier than an EDK though and is better used for joining fixed lines together since it gives you a clip in loop when passing a knot.  

It's talked about on Climbing Tech Tips Here: https://www.climbing.com/skills/tech-tip-aid-the-alpine-butterfly/

(granted, I would never have so much extra rope inside the loop like pictured but I assume that was done for clarity.)
chris p · · Meriden, CT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 556

Why do you ask? I haven't only because it's a tiny bit awkward to tie and I'm not worried about a double fisherman jamming. The alpine butterfly is a great knot that has become basically my go to for any time I need a loop or to equalize knots. The bend version is great, but the double fisherman and flat overhand are quicker and easier and get the job done. 

NathanB · · Glenwood Springs · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 15

Thanks for the replies! The loop to clip into sounds like a great option. I use the AB tied mid-line at work constantly and just came across the bend version today. I liked how it seemed to pull flat but had never heard much about it in a climbing scenario. I like options and trying new things...

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

I haven’t done it for a rappel but have done it to join fixed ropes. 

chris p · · Meriden, CT · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 556
M Appelquist wrote: I find threading the bend quite fast, seconds slower than overhand, half a minute faster than double fisherman’s.  Unties faster than either of those two.

I take back my argument. I've used this method which is a bit slow and awkward when setting up to rappel. 

https://www.netknots.com/rope_knots/alpine-butterfly-bend

Tying it just like an alpine butterfly while being careful with the ends is so much quicker and easier I feel like an idiot for not doing it sooner. 
Spooky Porpoise · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 0

The loop to clip into sounds like a great option. I use the AB tied mid-line at work constantly and just came across the bend version today. I liked how it seemed to pull flat but had never heard much about it in a climbing scenario. walgreenslistens

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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