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A small experiment

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi,
I was hauling on a wall with a novice the other day and demonstrated a counter balance, a 2:1 and a 3:1.
The situation was a large sloping ledge with loose grit and roots to fall over.
The counterbalance was poor, as the second could not get his full weight on the rope as he could not truly hang.
The 3:1 was poor as it was hard to work together given the complexity of the slope and because it was equally hard to reset the lower pulley a long distance without falling over each other or the plants. Or to move far.
The 2:1 was excellent because it only needed one person, and that person never had to move his feet.

I have used a 2:1 before, but what impressed me here was how it was so much better due to the situation, not to do with pulley efficiency and that kind of thing. But because of the complexity of the ledge. In the past I have switched between methods depending on the load or if I have a partner. Now I might pay a little more attention to the landscape at my feet.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Absolutely yes! The position of the anchors and bolts and hauling device vis a vis the ledge is crucial, especially with really heavy loads.

You want to position the hauling device above the narrowest part of the ledge, so the haul line is bent the least with the least amount of friction.

Furthermore, the hauling device must be as high as possible above the ledge for the same reason, to make the haul line bend as little as possible across the edge of the ledge.

Dr. Piton Big Wall Hauling Tip of the Day:  When you're standing on a ledge, you want the hauling device as high as possible. Equalizing two bolts necessarily lowers your hauling device quite a bit.  If you are on a Trade Route, where the bolts are "GOOD", then consider attaching your hauling device directly to a single "GOOD" bolt, the highest one that is above the narrowest part of the ledge. Back the good bolt up with a horizontal Yates Screamer to another nearby bolt.  Don't do this if the bolt isn't absolutely bomber, but it's a nice looking 3/8-incher, go for it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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