New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #10

FrankPS wrote:

Dwain, are you sure that's Ragged Edges? It sure looks like J-Tree rock.

In Dwain’s pics, you can see the wonderful 10a thin crack to the left of Ragged Edges, and the really nice 10b face climb to the right of it. 

phylp phylp wrote:

In Dwain’s pics, you can see the wonderful 10a thin crack to the left of Ragged Edges, and the really nice 10b face climb to the right of it. 

It is Lori's photo, not Dwain's. She asked in her post about the photo in her post. 

Edit: Lori asked about two photos and two separate climbs. I was referring to the bottom photo with the light colored rock. Hence, the confusion.

FrankPS wrote:

It is Lori's photo, not Dwain's. She asked in her post about the photo in her post. 

Edit: Lori asked about two photos and two separate climbs. I was referring to the bottom photo with the light colored rock. Hence, the confusion.

In that same post Lori asked me where the climb I was on at, Frank

Guy Keesee wrote: 

You never know when you will run in to old friends out their.

Tell that novice her helmet is on crooked.    

Oh goodness.... it seems we need order in this court!  I also thought Dwain was naming my bottom pic and was going to say WRONG!  But if it's Dwain's, Ragged Edges, that looks mouth-watering.  

We could almost have a game of Hollywood Squares here: Name That Route!  I don't know how we could manage that, with climbers from all over the world here.  REGIONAL Hollywood Squares?  I would love to see pictures of rgold's best routes posted here... it might keep us occupied and happy for a long, long time.    

Can I ask a question about naming conventions?  I think I mentioned some thousands of posts ago that I'm fascinated with the Poodle routes here in Josh and would like to climb as many as I can... I'm interested in both the routes themselves and the history of the names.  Someone who knows this about me suggested we give a new FA of ours a Poodle Name.  Can you just do this?  And at what point does a new route get included in MP or other guide books?  It seems part of the drill here in Josh is to NOT include a new route in popular guide books.  But also, there's a strong history here, and some gentlemen's handshakes I don't yet know about. 

Anyway, I'd be tickled pink to have my own poodle route.  :-)  

Dwain

One of Jean's and mine favorite climb at Red Rocks is Ragged Edges. I did Plan F (1st pitch) on TR only. I struggled but Jean cruised it.

Hope to get to Red Rocks in late fall, maybe we can meet up.

Ragged Edges

John

Oldtradguy wrote: Dwain

One of Jean's and mine favorite climb at Red Rocks is Ragged Edges. I did Plan F (1st pitch) on TR only. I struggled but Jean cruised it.

Hope to get to Red Rocks in late fall, maybe we can meet up.

Ragged Edges

John

That sounds good, John.
I'll PM you my phone number

Edit: the last time I did Plan F was in 2013
with Richard Harrison before he passed away. (R.I.P.)
I sure miss him.
I still wash windows for some of his customers that he gave me.
They miss him also.

Lori- good morning. For a map, go to nomads- they might have Topo Maps of the area, Or google topo maps joshua tree..... I found many- some free. Maybe find a print/copy place and print out a big one- pin it to a wall, start sticking color coded pin in it- BnB owners might not like it. I hate electronic maps! Ya can’t study them in detail and many are lacking in information.

If you want to see crops,  head down to El Centro or go East on the 10 to Blythe..... or take the road to 29palms and keep going.... real deserted desert starts just East of 29palms.... after a ways you can head south to the I10 or go to Parker AZ and drive south along the Colorado River to Blythe.... pack a big lunch you are going to see a whole lot of empty space and beautiful desert mountains.

Lori - You should be able to get a map from your Realtor.

wendy weiss wrote:

Tell that novice her helmet is on crooked.    

The best rockclimber ever can tip her hat anyway she wishes. 

BITD when she was like 16 and begging rides to the TREE every weekend and hanging out with all of us, she started to show her tremendous talent! We would yo-yo (pushing the pro higher then getting lowered and handing the lead over) FA’s -only She didn’t always play fair and when it was her lead- she would just cruz to the top!!! Robbing the rest of US of glory!!!!! The FFA of the Nose was such a monumental achievement,  it changed climbing forever and showed the way forward and what is possible. 
And Dwain- Richard was one of those larger then life people. Personally I tried to copy his go for it attitude and style. RIP 

Lori Milas wrote: 

Can I ask a question about naming conventions?  I think I mentioned some thousands of posts ago that I'm fascinated with the Poodle routes here in Josh and would like to climb as many as I can... I'm interested in both the routes themselves and the history of the names.  Someone who knows this about me suggested we give a new FA of ours a Poodle Name.  Can you just do this?  And at what point does a new route get included in MP or other guide books?  It seems part of the drill here in Josh is to NOT include a new route in popular guide books.  But also, there's a strong history here, and some gentlemen's handshakes I don't yet know about.

Anyway, I'd be tickled pink to have my own poodle route.  :-)  

Under the comments for Poodles Are People Too (the 1st Poodle route) is this, which explains the origin of thr Poodle name phenomena. 

"The whole "Poodle" thing got started with this route, a tribute of sorts to Charles Cole's giant "Standard" poodle "Gus."  It expanded to poke fun at the various macho, pompus or just stupid sounding route names being put up during the 80s. (ie: "Scary Monsters = Scary Poodles; Knight In Shining Armor = Poodle In Shining Armor; etc.) It just got out of control (very silly) from there. (Tales of Power = Tails of Poodles; The Atom Smashers = The Poodle Smasher). Soon other people who had no idea of what prompted all this were naming poodle routes too.  Some of the other Poodle routes are quite good too. "

We used to amuse ourselves by substituting Poodle in an existing route name. This was before Instagram and YouTube lowered the standard for amusement further.

BTW, The Poodle Smasher is an excellent route.

As far as naming a route, you have pretty much free reign. Obviously, avoiding names that are clearly bigoted or misogynistic, etc. should be avoided.

Carl, here's a haiku I composed during my hike out to Found Ledge, today:

Rock says "Come and play!"
I say: "Grounded. We've been bad."
Tears run down its face.

Dragons.... that’s some fine looking slab! 

Randy wrote:

Under the comments for Poodles Are People Too (the 1st Poodle route) is this, which explains the origin of thr Poodle name phenomena. 

"The whole "Poodle" thing got started with this route, a tribute of sorts to Charles Cole's giant "Standard" poodle "Gus."  It expanded to poke fun at the various macho, pompus or just stupid sounding route names being put up during the 80s. (ie: "Scary Monsters = Scary Poodles; Knight In Shining Armor = Poodle In Shining Armor; etc.) It just got out of control (very silly) from there. (Tales of Power = Tails of Poodles; The Atom Smashers = The Poodle Smasher). Soon other people who had no idea of what prompted all this were naming poodle routes too.  Some of the other Poodle routes are quite good too. "

We used to amuse ourselves by substituting Poodle in an existing route name. This was before Instagram and YouTube lowered the standard for amusement further.

BTW, The Poodle Smasher is an excellent route.

As far as naming a route, you have pretty much free reign. Obviously, avoiding names that are clearly bigoted or misogynistic, etc. should be avoided.

Randy;
Do you remember back in the early 80s  when you and I did Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People too. after my partner and I got down from doing White lightning? It was shortly after you put up the route Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People Too.

dragons wrote:

Carl, here's a haiku I composed during my hike out to Found Ledge, today:

Rock says "Come and play!"
I say: "Grounded. We've been bad."
Tears run down its face.

Oh nice! 

Relaxation leven #9

Guy Keesee wrote:

The best rockclimber ever can tip her hat anyway she wishes. 

BITD when she was like 16 and begging rides to the TREE every weekend and hanging out with all of us, she started to show her tremendous talent! We would yo-yo (pushing the pro higher then getting lowered and handing the lead over) FA’s -only She didn’t always play fair and when it was her lead- she would just cruz to the top!!! Robbing the rest of US of glory!!!!! The FFA of the Nose was such a monumental achievement,  it changed climbing forever and showed the way forward and what is possible. 

Can't speak for other women, but it changed climbing for me, especially when I learned she was my height, maybe even a little shorter. All my excuses evaporated.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: Randy;
Do you remember back in the early 80s  when you and I did Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People too. after my partner got down from doing White lightning? It was shortly after you put up the route Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People Too.

All these routes are so fresh in my mind because the very LAST place I climbed outdoors before all this madness was Hemingway Buttress. Poodles are people is a FINE route. 

• I Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: 

Randy;
Do you remember back in the early 80s  when you and I did Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People too. after my partner and I got down from doing White lightning? It was shortly after you put up the route Feltonian Physics and Poodles are People Too.

Hey Dwain, a good day for sure. Both fun routes.

Here is a story about the origin of the name Feltonian Physics.

 We were living in Josh at the time, renting a small house, which was often a refuge for various climbers on cold nights.

Scrabble games were a popular passtime and competition, like on the crags, was sometimes intense. One such evening we were engaged in a game with a few others, including Bachar and Charles Cole.

 Someone had created the word "FELT" which ended horizontally 5 spaces from the edge of the board, and as Scrabble players can guess, 5 spaces from the coveted triple word square.

It was John's turn, and he was staring at, and actively re-arranging, the tiles on his rack. He wanted that triple word score, and possibly a second triple word score running vertically on the board's edge.  

We had set a 3 minute limit on any play and John's time was expired. Everyone knew John's quest was hopeless and told him make his play or lose a turn. Someone else would claim the triple, after more words were played.

FELTONIAN. And NEXT running downward was John's play. The double triple with an X to boot. 

The cries of foul were swift, the words were challenged. John claimed Feltonian was a branch of physics he had learned about during his short tenure as an undergrad at UCLA.

 BS was called. The word disallowed. But, a good route name was born.

^^^^^ good shit Randy.
Keep dishing out the climbing lore...

Thanks man