New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #10

Dallas R wrote:
One 5.6 route, three hours.  Pathetic.  

Not pathetic at all. Who are you comparing yourself to? Some people your age ((i see by your profile you're 64) have trouble walking down the street they;'re so overweight, but you and Barb are out there doing it. 

Nothing wrong with only top roping BTW, it's great exercise and negates the issues you and Barb may have leading.

There seems to be a dark moon right now... or maybe just a challenging one.  I don't mean to pile on, after Dallas had such a hard day.  But I'm also having a surprisingly hard time...  as my son used to say "I need a communication from the Mother Ship."  I'm trying to listen to the larger spirits and know how I am to proceed.

In two days we leave for Joshua Tree... and in two days my home goes on the market here.  We spent almost a year deliberating this, and even though it's scary, it felt right.  In the last couple of weeks my life savings, almost all in stocks and bonds, took a huge hit.  Probably one third of my savings is gone, at least for now.  No idea how much further the DOW will crash but I've stopped watching, Tony just tells me "Look away, baby. It's not good, today."  

And then today, one of my three remaining employees quit... a key one who does an amazing amount of work.  I had talked to each employee at length, double checked that each one truly wanted to stay and keep our doors open.  Everything was solid.  But she told me today that she needed to move on.  I think she was overwhelmed and  bailed.  With two days left, I have no way to find another person to replace her. How do I look for and interview people from 600 miles away?  It may be I need to close my business for good and there goes income.

------------------

So when things get tough the tough go climbing.  Something Tony doesn't know about me yet is that when everything is falling apart and things look dire, I get pissed.  I get proactive.  Circumstances  might land me right back here, with or without a home or business... but I am fighting back.  I don't go down easily.  

This was my  'last day' at our gym... a real end to an era for me.  And I am genuinely grateful to Ryan... who has shepherded me as a climber, and carefully and lovingly coached me as far as I can go.  There really aren't enough thank-you's.  If it turned out that I had to stay here... we would start fresh with a whole new routine and new goals.  I feel like I tucked in the 10 a-c's.. I feel good about the work and effort we've both put in to this.  

So, for one last route... I chose this 11b.  I knew there was no possible way I could climb it all... but it was so satisfying to make those first few moves.  The volume up ahead was the crux... just a little past my ability.

Moving forward... walking one step at a time... wish I had a headlamp.  Can't see the next thing clearly.  

Lori Milas wrote: There seems to be a dark moon right now... or maybe just a challenging one.  I don't mean to pile on, after Dallas had such a hard day.  But I'm also having a surprisingly hard time...  as my son used to say "I need a communication from the Mother Ship."  I'm trying to listen to the larger spirits and know how I am to proceed.

In two days we leave for Joshua Tree... and in two days my home goes on the market here.  We spent almost a year deliberating this, and even though it's scary, it felt right.  In the last couple of weeks my life savings, almost all in stocks and bonds, took a huge hit.  Probably one third of my savings is gone, at least for now.  No idea how much further the DOW will crash but I've stopped watching, Tony just tells me "Look away, baby. It's not good, today."  

And then today, one of my three remaining employees quit... a key one who does an amazing amount of work.  I had talked to each employee at length, double checked that each one truly wanted to stay and keep our doors open.  Everything was solid.  But she told me today that she needed to move on.  I think she was overwhelmed and  bailed.  With two days left, I have no way to find another person to replace her. How do I look for and interview people from 600 miles away?  It may be I need to close my business for good and there goes income.

------------------

So when things get tough the tough go climbing.  Something Tony doesn't know about me yet is that when everything is falling apart and things look dire, I get pissed.  I get proactive.  Circumstances  might land me right back here, with or without a home or business... but I am fighting back.  I don't go down easily.  

This was my  'last day' at our gym... a real end to an era for me.  And I am genuinely grateful to Ryan... who has shepherded me as a climber, and carefully and lovingly coached me as far as I can go.  There really aren't enough thank-you's.  If it turned out that I had to stay here... we would start fresh with a whole new routine and new goals.  I feel like I tucked in the 10 a-c's.. I feel good about the work and effort we've both put in to this.  

So, for one last route... I chose this 11b.  I knew there was no possible way I could climb it all... but it was so satisfying to make those first few moves.  The volume up ahead was the crux... just a little past my ability.

Moving forward... walking one step at a time... wish I had a headlamp.  Can't see the next thing clearly.  

There's a lot of insecurity going on everywhere right now, Lori. I have faith that things will work out for you. 

Dallas R wrote:  We can no longer assure our partners that we can climb adequately enough to make the adventure fun.  That's the depressing part.  

I strongly disagree with this sentiment!! What, after all is the bar for 'climbing adequately to make the adventure fun'? Is there some grade threshold I'm unaware of? You are both safe and competent climbers - you give great belays and are a pleasure to be around. Don't be so hard on yourselves - you had a rough day. It happens (believe me, I know!) I will climb with you anytime you are in the area, and no matter what level/grade you happen to be climbing at. And fun adventures will be had!!!!

Tim Schafstall wrote:  Keeping that in mind...it's a "stick clip", not a "clip stick".  I say this not to correct the verbiage, but only in the context that if someone asked me to set up a TR for them and called it a "clip stick", I would be very wary of their experience level.

If you take issue with "clip stick" you are going to be alienating a lot of 8a+ climbing Euros.

Ok, Ok you guys, I am quite chastised, no more whining.  But thank you all for you encouragement and kind words.  We were both a little down after our day, we know we should have been able to climb that route.  But we also have not been climbing much.  I thought Barb might be done... but after dinner, sitting on the couch, I caught her on MP.  "What are you doing?" I ask, she's searching all the 5.4-5.7 climbs in the US to determine where we need to go to get our climbing mojo back... I really love that woman.

Which brings me to Lori's situation.  I really suspect Lori and Barbara are of a kindred spirit.  They may fuss about stuff, worry about stuff, whine about stuff, but when crunch time comes there is nothing but steel backbone.  Strong and true.  

64, gotta apply for medicare soon.  I am not old.  Walking the dog and cat through the RV park this afternoon I saw a lot of old people.  Wheel chairs, oxygen bottles, ramps instead of stairs.  One diabetic looking guy without a foot.  I am not old. 

Thinking back over the years I realized that we got better because we were out climbing 2 - 3 times a week.  That hasn't happened in a while, so of course we aren't going to be as strong.  So we are falling back on our initial philosophy of climbing, we may suck, but we are having fun.  

Ok, you lead we feed reinstated; we have Chicken Marsala, Eggplant Lasagna, Surf and turf, and for our vegan friends - pressed tofu, grilled with a honey soy glaze....  for out dirt bagger buddies it's pancakes, bacon, cheesy eggs with strong coffee in the morning, then home made mac and cheese with smoked sausage for dinner, free beer.....

Dallas;
Don't worry about how hard you climb. Just have, FUN!
I've been out of climbing for 4 years
after climbing for 52 years.
After I recuperate from back surgery. I am going to get back on the rock.
I'm sure I am going to have a difficult time climbing 5.3d until I get back in shape
but, I am going to have FUN climbing 5.3d!!!

Dallas, glad you are feeling a little more positive.

I’ve been climbing a long time and get out quite often, but still spend as much time falling and hanging as I do climbing.

In fact, I sometimes think I should describe myself as a ‘faller’ rather than a climber.

You sound like a pretty normal climber to me.

Getting to the top isn’t the only way to have a good time.

And if you need any leaver biners, just let me know and I’ll send you a couple.
With a stick clip and a leaver, you can try anything :-)

Senor Arroz wrote: There's a lot of insecurity going on everywhere right now, Lori. I have faith that things will work out for you. 

Insecurities? Fuck. Yesterday my wife punched me in the face and left me. Now I'm at home with three dogs (one a puppy) and a carton of beer and facing selling the house, the product of 40 years of work. 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Insecurities? Fuck. Yesterday my wife punched me in the face and left me. Now I'm at home with three dogs (one a puppy) and a carton of beer and facing selling the house, the product of 40 years of work. 

Tomorrow I'm going for a long motorbike ride and going to try real hard not to ride in to a truck.

I've decided to quit social media, including here, and just be me without fucking talking about it. 

Carl. I hope this isn't hurtful: your post made me laugh so hard I spit my coffee out.  I was up at 4 a.m. worrying and packing... and took a glance at MP.  The visual of the scene with your wife had me belly-laughing before I could realize that maybe you are serious and this isn't funny.  But I REALLY needed the laugh.    
So... if it helps, you can have a laugh at my expense too.  And there's plenty here to laugh at.  

Please check in and let us know you are ok.  And get some climbing in!  According to your schedule, I think this is your non-drinking day... so you have extra time in the bouldering room.

k ?Carl is it to late to put your poetry toward the cause? Is she a "Flowers&Fawning" to help make it up to her type of Sheila*?(*hope I used that correctly?)
Ugh ! Sell the bike win back the wife?  Anyway, I hope you find a balance that you can be happy with. . . (Schneider roots in Austria, Theres not much to climb there, is there?)

On a lighter note, after waiting her whole life to scare the shit out of her parents by going on a 'spring-break-trip' with her college friends.
Pandemic...
Now, on her 19th revolution & having found stable orbit, she can flip the old bird at mom & dad but at virus seemingly named after the nationally brewed beverage of the sought after location for the debauchery? Not so much! Given the realities, We received notice that they would not be going to Mexico.(Or China! for that matter, the place where the Yo-Yos 1st hoped to go, they are a native-rich performing, Chinese-Yo-yo team)  
We make for a tough pair of parents let me tell ya; we agreed to help with the yet-to-be lost deposits & did not insist that she live up to her commitment.'
So it is with a heavy never achieving service-dog, that will have to grudgingly give up space in the girl-child's bed
That we will go and retrieve said college student.

Thinking that my distant relations' sour plight, might be a harbinger of the way my own domestic bliss might be undermined by my similar obsession,
I'll just slow down and look longly at the soon to be opened, freshly bolted  'new', vertical granite playground without insisting on stopping to make a full day of it.  Without making a full stop to try to TR  whatever I might find.

Dallas R wrote: Ok, Ok you guys, I am quite chastised, no more whining.  But thank you all for you encouragement and kind words.  We were both a little down after our day, we know we should have been able to climb that route.  But we also have not been climbing much.  I thought Barb might be done... but after dinner, sitting on the couch, I caught her on MP.  "What are you doing?" I ask, she's searching all the 5.4-5.7 climbs in the US to determine where we need to go to get our climbing mojo back... I really love that woman.

Which brings me to Lori's situation.  I really suspect Lori and Barbara are of a kindred spirit.  They may fuss about stuff, worry about stuff, whine about stuff, but when crunch time comes there is nothing but steel backbone.  Strong and true.  

64, gotta apply for medicare soon.  I am not old.  Walking the dog and cat through the RV park this afternoon I saw a lot of old people.  Wheel chairs, oxygen bottles, ramps instead of stairs.  One diabetic looking guy without a foot.  I am not old.

Thinking back over the years I realized that we got better because we were out climbing 2 - 3 times a week.  That hasn't happened in a while, so of course we aren't going to be as strong.  So we are falling back on our initial philosophy of climbing, we may suck, but we are having fun.  

Ok, you lead we feed reinstated; we have Chicken Marsala, Eggplant Lasagna, Surf and turf, and for our vegan friends - pressed tofu, grilled with a honey soy glaze....  for out dirt bagger buddies it's pancakes, bacon, cheesy eggs with strong coffee in the morning, then home made mac and cheese with smoked sausage for dinner, free beer.....

Jim says post your live map of where you feed we lead is being served.... we are in! I’m so glad you have reframed things!

ErikaNW wrote:

Jim says post your live map of where you feed we lead is being served.... we are in! I’m so glad you have reframed things!

Headed out for a bike and hike,  I'll try to put something together tonight. 

Dallas.... I can not add much to reinforce what others have said. Rgold, as usual nailed it.
Climbin is supposed to be fun and a truly “Bad Day Climbing” should at least put you in the hospital for an overnight stay.
We all have “hi-gravity” days and they suck.
I will however add my own $ .02....

How is that diet/weight loss going?
My experience is that 10,15, 20 Lbs extra will hurt you so much it’s almost impossible to climb steep stuff- and the photo of “King of Fives” shows me that it’s pretty steep. A good friend of mine gave me some great advice 15 years ago after I had a full leg cast for 6 months and grew 30 pounds bigger it was: “build on success not on failure, pick the climbs wisely, don’t skip grades and get shot down. If that means you do beginner 5.3d - do those— when you run out of those go on to 5.4a...”

Don’t be bashful asking others to hang a TR for you- I do it all the time now. Hint- offer the food to the young D-bags as a trade and have your rig ready to go early so it gets installed on their warm up and explain that it’s your “project” for the day and anybody can run it if they wish.

Anyway I sincerely hope you don’t quit- for my own selfish reasons. #1 I love to eat and your feasts sound epic. #2 You and your wife’s lifestyle intrigue me and I have 99 questions about it that must be discussed around a campfire not on the net.

Lastly- A COR get together sounds fabulous! I can show off my Dutch oven cooking skills. And I’ve never been to the place.

Have fun

Looks like I'm getting rained out of Red Rock this weekend. Have a backup campsite at J-tree, though, for tomorrow night. So things could be a lot worse.

Good to see some positive responses to a group get-together at City of Rocks. Hopefully some more folks will be interested as well. Guy - I can't believe you've never been there. If you like Joshua Tree, you'll love City! 

I see two options for camping: (1) Get a group camp or (2) Get individual sites and meet up each day for climbing. Either option has advantages and disadvantages.

A Group campsite would be fun for socializing, shared meals, partner hook-ups, etc. There are two Group campsites, one at Breadloaves and one at Twin Sisters. The Breadloaves site would be a zoo most days as it is one of the most popular climbing areas. I believe that the Twin Sisters site would be a much better choice. As of today (March 12) the Twin Sisters site is open from Sunday Sept.13 through Thursday Sept.17 (five nights) or from Monday Sept. 21 through Thursday Sept. 24 (four nights). If we wanted to reserve one of these times we would need enough people to commit soon, so as to be sure we can make reservations.

Getting individual sites would allow folks to arrive and leave on their own schedule, as well as providing a bit more privacy for those who want that. We could pick a week and people could come for part or all of that period of time. This would probably be easier to do; less group organizational issues. I usually try to arrive on a Sunday and leave on the following Saturday, which isn't possible at either group site.

So anyone who is interested please let's talk about how we can make this happen. I'm open to any ideas. These are just a few thoughts to get the ball rolling.

And by the way, Dallas - a big breakthrough for me, which took many years to learn, was to be able to have fun on a route that I couldn't do! I assure you it is possible with the right attitude.

Brandt....  never been, bitd I was fairly important person where I worked. A 4 day weekend was about all I could get away with so I seldom went very far away.
So for me I think earlier in September would be best.
Maybe we could coax Kris into going- again. He went once and was repulsed by all the cow poo lying about and immediately returned to the East Side!!!! That’s all I know about it. Any truth to it? 

Guy Keesee wrote: Brandt....  never been, bitd I was fairly important person where I worked. A 4 day weekend was about all I could get away with so I seldom went very far away.
So for me I think earlier in September would be best.
Maybe we could coax Kris into going- again. He went once and was repulsed by all the cow poo lying about and immediately returned to the East Side!!!! That’s all I know about it. Any truth to it? 

LOL- Kris is exaggerating.  There is not that much cow poo! You will love it Guy, it's a fabulous place. Just gorgeous locale and climbing. And very close by is the newer Castle Crags area, which is mostly sport climbing.  If the wind is howling up at the Breadloaves, it can often be quite reasonable weather lower down there at Castle.  Brandt, have you ever been out to visit the Twin Sisters group site?  I'm pretty familiar with it, from all the Fritz and Heidi gatherings.  It's pretty nice out there and not all that far out.  Takes maybe ten minutes from the main intersection to get out there?

Guy - I suggested mid September for cooler temps and because schools have started and crowds might be smaller. I would not be against earlier dates if it suited others. Don't know where Kris was climbing, but I can promise you in most places cow poo is not a problem.

Phyl - Yes I have been to the Twin Sisters site, that's why I said it would be a better choice compared to the Breadloaves.