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Crag with the most accurate grades in your local climbing area?

Original Post
Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

I know this subject is completely subjective based on climbing experience, how much you've climbed outside of your home area, and even where you went outside of your local area. But....
What Crag in your local area has the most accurate grades, based on your OPINION?

My thought for this is that it'd be nice to have a reference point in popular areas to compare to when visiting a new area.

Opinions can change over time and through experience, but mine currently...

Red River Gorge
Sandbagged Crag- Chocolate Factory (Bald Rock)
Spot on Crags- Solar Collector/Gold Coast (Coal Bank)
Soft Crag- Solarium (Miur Valley)

(These are "generally" how they feel to me. Theres a few soft and a few sandbagged in the opposite category, if you know what I mean.)

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 18,919

Accurate;  Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.

Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.

Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Johnny Woodward. 

Adam Gallimore · · Greensboro · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 313

This is for Western North Carolina:

Sandbagged: Looking Glass Rock

Accurate: Ship Rock

Soft: Rumbling Bald

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,055
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

Yeah, it's hard to argue with the place it all started.

Uber soft grades: Red Rocks.

I was hangng out in HVCC one time, and two guys walk up and ask me if I'm familiar with the routes around here.

"We're looking for some easy twelves."

An oxymoron for sure in Josh. I suggested maybe they start on the left ski track and see how it goes.

"But that's not a twelve."

I suggested they hit up Hot Rocks and see how that goes.

"But that's only .11c."

"How about Leave it to Beaver?"

"We heard that thing's a sandbag."

"How about Red Rocks?"
Mike Stephan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 1,188

Stoney Point, CA.

JTNP is also good, but I find it inconsistent.  Perhaps this is due to the sheer volume of climbs (both new and old) in the area.

Zach Harrison · · Flagstaff · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 1,672

Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate.

Todd Berlier · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 553
Salamanizer suchoski wrote: Accurate;  Tahquitz, Yosemite and Smith Rock... there’s a few more.

Soft; Auburn, Luther, Owens gorge.

Sandbagged; Lassen Ntl Park, Needles, anything Jonny Woodward.

FTFY :)

Ivan Cross · · Flagstaff · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 198

If you can do it, it's 5.8. If you cant do it it's 5.12. End of story.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Any NRGers out there?

Not MP Admin · · The OASIS · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 17
Ma Ja wrote: Any NRGers out there?

RRG: soft grades

NRG: not soft grades

J Verg · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 95
Gunkiemike wrote: While it's not in my local area, one would have a real tough time arguing against Tahquitz as the most accurate.

This. It’s the logical answer. 

Farzin · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 85

Any crag that use the most digits and scientific notation would be the most accurate.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

thinkin? oH;' never mind,  kinda' a masturbatory pursuit -

Considering that all grading of rock climbing is relative /subjective

& very dependant on the individual strengths & weaknesses of the people doing the climbing.
As well as  who & when the grade was given to whichever variation was climbed at the time.
 It also matters whether or not that the eventual graded line, is the same as the variation now climbed& given the grade.
 (which is still a different line from how it was originally accended, especially with certain types of rock  like ~"Kitty-Litter-quality"~"Monzonite"  )

You really do not understand what the number grades mean in relation to climbing . . . .
They are meant to give one a rough idea as to the comparative difficulty of the climbing based on a comparative, amorphous & ephemeral changing scale.

& in the big picture ~ you are completely missing the point  . . .

Enjoy the journey  .  .  .

& Chris Duca Said
Stoney Ridge  in Pennciletucky!  is it legal >Again>? . <<*>>> Re-Open/Free That Black Ridge!  (I need to get a scanner)

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

Spiders’ Web, NY—accurate
Index, WA—stout
Stoney Ridge, PA—stout
Exit 38(Nevermind Wall), WA—soft

jessie briggs · · NH · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 636

Acadia:soft
NoCo: accurate
Whitehorse:terrifying

Tradgic Yogurt · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 55

A few months ago, I overheard a gumbie at Movement talking about how a V4 on the Warmup wall at Hueco, over on East Mountain, was really hard for the grade...

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130
James W wrote: "Red Rock is the most accurate", says my fragile ego.

Red rock from 1986 is pretty hard

Dan Cooksey · · Pink Ford Thunderbird · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365

Accurate - any crag where I flash every route I try.

Sandbagged - any crag where I do not.

Zachary K · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 3,293

The most accurate crag is the one that is most consistent. I don't mind when a crag is softer or more sandbagged than another. But when the 5.10 route is harder than the 5.11a right next to it, the grades become completely meaningless. 

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 286
Zach Harrison wrote: Whatever crag is the newest has the softest grades, unless the FAist understand grade creep, climb old routes to recalibrate and have a healthy amount of self disrespect. Old ratings aren’t sandbags, they are accurate.

So true.  In my local area old 5.7 are called 5.9: 5.8 are being regrading 5.10.  and by old I mean these routes have been around since the early 1970s or earlier put up wearing boots and pitons.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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